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Old 05-10-2013, 09:43 AM
  #30421  
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Originally Posted by lunablue
Yeah, probably better to just replace it... Guess the car got jealous I was spending so much on the cooling system... had to start throwing me other problems... :/
Could the ticking have something to do with changing the spark plugs? I put some stuff on the threads when I was putting the new ones in, but I didn't add any grease where it connects to the boot... Should I have? Guess I will take off the rail again today and see if all the plugs are snug enough.. I find it suspicious that the ticking started right after changing the plugs...
Ticking can be a thousand things from fuel injectors to evap purge solenoid to a cracked exhaust manifold to normal valvetrain noise. If you really want to go there with a Jeep use a section of garden hose like a stethescope. Hold one end to your ear and listen around the engine bay with the other to determine what's making the sound.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:44 AM
  #30422  
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Originally Posted by Jamie57
I know the drag link bar is a solid bar on the ZJ and much stronger but is there any difference worth getting the ZJ tie rod bar and tie rods?
The xj and zj drag link is the same. The tie rod is solid. I also got zj tre
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:54 AM
  #30423  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

The xj and zj drag link is the same. The tie rod is solid. I also got zj tre
^This. You can replace the drag link if you need one, but they're identical. The ZJ tie rod is a larger diameter and is solid instead of hollow.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:02 AM
  #30424  
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Originally Posted by salad
Ticking can be a thousand things from fuel injectors to evap purge solenoid to a cracked exhaust manifold to normal valvetrain noise. If you really want to go there with a Jeep use a section of garden hose like a stethescope. Hold one end to your ear and listen around the engine bay with the other to determine what's making the sound.
Yeah, I am going to try the "stethoscope" thing today. I know its coming from the top by the valve cover... Gonna need a long stick though as I'm short...lol
Thanks!
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:37 AM
  #30425  
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Originally Posted by sapperills
Hey I just got into my first Cherokee its a 97 4.0 sport with a 5 speed..when I am parked or come to a stop with my foot on the clutch and shiftto reverse it grinds and sometimes wont go in I usually have to put it into first and pull forward a bit then it will go into reverse...and same way if I back out of say a parking spot then going into first is a bit sticky...synchro damage or is there something easier to fix thankyou so much!!!
My guess would be something with the slave or master cylinder not releasing the clutch/pressure plate enough. Maybe try and bleed them both.
I have a 5-speed f150....I know, not the same vehicle, but the syncros are all very typical. Try this next time your at a stop:
- push the clutch pedal in
- put the shifter into 3rd - DO NOT left off of clutch, then in one smooth movement go into R (or 1st) from the 3rd gear position.
It should slide right in and not grind. I drove my f150 like this for two years, then when I had the $ I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate and slave and master cylinders....stopped the grinding all-together.
The syncros for 1st , 3rd, and R are very close and following this procedure should eliminate the grinding- at least until you locate and fix the real problem.

Last edited by donkeypunch; 05-10-2013 at 10:41 AM. Reason: because I fail sometimes
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:44 AM
  #30426  
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Someone wrote me about fixing their cherokee, it was broken into and stolen however recovered. Is the best option to pull a new column from a junkyard and have it rekey'd?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Someone wrote me about fixing their cherokee, it was broken into and stolen however recovered. Is the best option to pull a new column from a junkyard and have it rekey'd?
If the only thing thats messed up is the ignition switch just pull a new one and get it rekeyed, no reason to replace the entire column.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:47 AM
  #30428  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Someone wrote me about fixing their cherokee, it was broken into and stolen however recovered. Is the best option to pull a new column from a junkyard and have it rekey'd?
Country Model.

That'd probably be easiest if the lock cylinder is completely destroyed.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:52 AM
  #30429  
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So im replacing the majority of my cooling system. What tranny line is the one that leaves the tranny? Im hookig up a tranny cooler is why. I think its the upper one if ur looking at it from the underside where they run along the bottom area of the engine.

Edit: 2nd question, does the fan clutch require an inch-lb torque wrench?

Edit#2: my tranny id plate says 30-43 LE. My chilton doesnt even say its an option? Made in japan?

Last edited by Eagle564; 05-10-2013 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:19 AM
  #30430  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2
Country Model.

That'd probably be easiest if the lock cylinder is completely destroyed.
Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
If the only thing thats messed up is the ignition switch just pull a new one and get it rekeyed, no reason to replace the entire column.
Il wait and see his reply. Could pull an ignition switch from the junkyard with the lock cylinder in it. Have it rekey'd and take it from there. Also might check for the column cover that was tore off. Thanks fella's.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:56 AM
  #30431  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Il wait and see his reply. Could pull an ignition switch from the junkyard with the lock cylinder in it. Have it rekey'd and take it from there. Also might check for the column cover that was tore off. Thanks fella's.
The reason I said the whole column was if the lock cylinder is phucked you're going to have a hell of a time getting it out of the column.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:59 AM
  #30432  
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Any links (or info) for removing the A/C compressor and putting the alternator in its place on a Renix? I've read lots of different ways to do it on a HO, and they all say it won't work for Renix. Hoping somebody has done it or has a link saved.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:05 PM
  #30433  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Any links (or info) for removing the A/C compressor and putting the alternator in its place on a Renix? I've read lots of different ways to do it on a HO, and they all say it won't work for Renix. Hoping somebody has done it or has a link saved.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=996363

That's the one I have saved. Only one I know of. Lol.

I don't see why a Remix engine could do it. Don't they use an AC bracket from a renix ? I'll have to reread that its been a while.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:09 PM
  #30434  
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Originally Posted by lowrange2

The reason I said the whole column was if the lock cylinder is phucked you're going to have a hell of a time getting it out of the column.
Eh it depends. I've had part of my cylinder break and I did end up getting a whole column for spare parts. But I was able to pull the cylinder out real easy. Try this: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...1etgddK2Qne8fg
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:21 PM
  #30435  
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Torque specs for hub bolts and shaft nut?
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