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Old 05-10-2013, 07:28 PM
  #30481  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Put a sensor on the return to transmission.
Who cares what the temperature of the return oil is? This will vary widely based on outside temperature. It's the fluid inside the tranny that actually matters. Ideally the sensor should be inside the transmission, but as close as possible (hot oil out line) will suffice. This will give you an accurate reading of the thermal health of your transmission, not as easily subject to leaks and blockages.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
Anyone? Just curious.
The base for the AW-4 was sold under a lot of names, it is essentially identical to the Toyota A340. Check this out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_transmission
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:56 PM
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$100 for oven box D30 and 8.8 master install kits worth it? They're g2. What all should come in a master install kit? It lists bearings, shims, ring bolts and pinion nut (on the 8.8) it didn't list what's there for the d30.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by lunablue
Hey Everyone,
I have been searching trying to figure out what is going on with my Jeep, and got some info, but I was hoping someone could maybe help narrow things down.. I have been running with a low idle for a while.. not to the point of stalling, but not smooth either. (Fluctuating just under the line below 1000 rpms...) I decided to change the spark plugs, not knowing how long its been since they were changed. The plugs that were in there were Bosch.. I switched them out with Champions. (483's) gapped at 35... I added some oil ( it was a little low, but not bad) and tightened a few of the valve cover bolts that had a little more play than I would have liked. When I went to start it up, it started ticking and the oil pressure gauge flew up and pinned at 80... I shut the car off right away... Any ideas what could cause that? The car starts up and idles fine for the 20 seconds I have it running...lol... No CEL... As far as I can tell, all the wires are hooked up and in good shape. Ugh...
Oh! I have a 2000 Cherokee 4.0

Update: Well, I fixed the problem! Took the rail back off, took out the 2 plugs where the noise seemed to be coming from.. they looked fine. put them back in, checked the tightness of the others and put the rail back on. This time I was extra careful to make sure the boots were seated on the plugs right. Tightened everything back up, started it up and no tick! Oil pressure gauge was working perfectly and the rough idle was gone. Took her for a drive and what a difference! I have more power, smooth ride and its nice and quiet... well as quiet as a jeep gets! Now back to fixing the cooling problem...
Thanks to everyone for your input! I love this forum...So much good info!
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
If you have an auto it's an AW4. Post a picture of the tranny-mine says the same thing
And thanks Salad, just thought I'd post this to show it.

Oh ya and I finished my cooling system overhaul. The engine started overheating bad on the first go around after install, I discovered that I believe it had a massive air pocket that caused it, its running about perfect now. And I installed my B&M tranny cooler, in line with the radiator tranny cooler because why not.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:47 PM
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My headliners out now guys finally! It was gone. I was just wondering if there's any cons to it. I had a slight noise but I fixed that.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:53 PM
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With summer coming you will feel the cons lol. Hope you're doorless and/or your AC works
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
With summer coming you will feel the cons lol. Hope you're doorless and/or your AC works
Ill probably have new headliner in by then but I get what you mean. I have ac and I can go doorless. Is that the only con?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:04 PM
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Noise, heat, nothing to soak up any leaks and get mildewy, nowhere to wipe your nose pickin's. I'm an "out-the-window" guy, myself.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:09 PM
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Hi Guys,

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Small Block, for almost 5 years+ I have been running on 3 cylinders unknown to me. The Head has just been replaced one really bad piston not even the same size and before this almost everything else replaced. Make a long story short, we did everything to ensure this rebuild would be perfect. Started it up Purred like a kitten, about 40 minutes or more started it and seems she is no longer purring. Running really rough and not hitting all the injectors. We are now looking into wires causing it to miss-fire, does anyone have anything else they can think of that might be the problem. We are at a loss, no ideas.

I know it doesn't seem to tech but my mechanic did every little trick to insure success and still no luck.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:18 PM
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Any codes? Compression test results? Good blue spark? What does "rebuild" mean? What work was done?
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:24 PM
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Hey guys I have a 1999 cherokee sport that has a vibration at 2500 rpm and up in park or neutral. I have replaced motor mounts and I have replace tranny mount and the exhaust does not seem to be hitting anywhere. The guy I purchased the xj from recently put the motor in. I looked at torque converter through the inspection plate and the bolts are tight and I do not see any cracks in the flex plate. any ideas would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:23 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Any codes? Compression test results? Good blue spark? What does "rebuild" mean? What work was done?
Sorry about that. replaced one piston and rod bearing, NEW 2.46 / 2.5 AMC JEEP CHEROKEE CYLINDER HEAD, complete set of rings, honned cylinders and made sure everything was within 1/2 of 1000th of an inch, before work compression was null on number two with bad piston. after replacing, compression was 120-130 on 1 and 2 for some reason the tester was not working on 3 and 4. Of course, replaced all gaskets. Before the head, had just finished timing chain, before that I have replaced motor mounts, did tune-up, new plugs, dist cap, rotor, ignition coil, fuel injectors, crank position sensor, throttle position sensor.

I hope this helps to explain what we have done.

Thanks Roxanne

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Old 05-11-2013, 05:41 AM
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I drained my tranny fluid to put new stuff in. The drain plug was extremely hard to remove, but when i reinstalled it, it wouldnt fully tighten up. It was supposed to be 30-40 ft-lbs, and it didnt get close, it tightens some but mainly just spins. Its not leaking but it does worry me. Is it stripped now? What would I need to do?
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Eagle564
I drained my tranny fluid to put new stuff in. The drain plug was extremely hard to remove, but when i reinstalled it, it wouldnt fully tighten up. It was supposed to be 30-40 ft-lbs, and it didnt get close, it tightens some but mainly just spins. Its not leaking but it does worry me. Is it stripped now? What would I need to do?
I would just replace the pan, its rather cheap, around 50$, that is if you can do it yourself. Another thing could be to drill it out bigger, then tap it if you have a tap set, but I would rather just replace the pan.

Someone else might be able to provide better answers tho.

Last edited by Greenwire6; 05-11-2013 at 08:23 AM.
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