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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Rock auto is great. I assume since the NGK plugs there are only listed as copper that's what I should get? That's what I've always bought, copper. I don't even know how i got to plugs when I was talking about o2s. Guess I'll find those first.
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
For anyone who searches
99 Cherokee 4.0 o2 sensors
NTK #23151 (Upstream)
NTK #23099 (Downstream)
EDIT: Also rock auto seems to have the best deal.
99 Cherokee 4.0 o2 sensors
NTK #23151 (Upstream)
NTK #23099 (Downstream)
EDIT: Also rock auto seems to have the best deal.
Last edited by DieselD; 05-21-2013 at 08:57 AM.
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Location: Oregon
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok that makes sense. Im picking up a new one as soon as oreillys opens. Thanks for the help. Lol sometimes simple things manage to confuse me alot.
I'm getting ready to order a lift kit finally and I was wondering, what is the purpose of doing a long arm upgrade? Do I have to? And if so, at what height do I need to upgrade? I'm looking at a rc 3" aal with a 2" budget boost.
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
And long iirc is for either 4.5" and up but someone can correct me if I'm wrong
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
My dad has a 2000 xj that through a rod. I can get a 4.0 out of a 98 Zj with 30k miles for ridiculously cheap. Will the Zj block work in the xj?
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Yep. You can keep the head too and get rid of that 0331 crap, just have to figure out some tabs to hold the coil rail in place.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Moderator of Jeeps
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
If you're considering a RC AAL, you don't need long arms.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
That is worth something actually. A lot of people don't understand what the downstream O2s do on OBD-II Jeeps and often just replace the upstreams. I'd replace the downstreams and see if your code stays away. You'd also do well to check the fuses in the PDC. Sounds like your heater might not be working. don't forget to check out the wiring while you're there. Give the vehicle-side connector a cleaning.
NTK is a Chrysler thing actually. Bosch was back in Renix days. RockAuto's parts selector has the right numbers
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Coil rail can be held on like this
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Long arms kits generally begin at 4.5" because that's where a short arm kit starts delivering a harsh ride. Long arms give better on-road manners to those higher lift height. They also have the potential to allow for more suspension travel if your setup is tuned properly.
If you're considering a RC AAL, you don't need long arms.
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
You don't need them, but they can be beneficial. Iron Rock Offroad has one of the cheapest setups, but there are a lot or arguments about their system. The other place to look is Serious Offroad. Besides that, Rock Krawler, T&T, and Clayton are the big dogs.