Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
#3121
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
place a 3 inch extension with one end of the extension on the edge of the axle and the other end against wheel hub. turn the wheel to pop the hub off.
There are a few reasons why i don't like this though...
1) your extension may turn into a lethal projectile
2) extreme stress on steering components
3) i've never actually gotten it to work. If it doesn't pop off right away with minimal effort turning the wheel, then forcing it will just break things IMO.
There are a few reasons why i don't like this though...
1) your extension may turn into a lethal projectile
2) extreme stress on steering components
3) i've never actually gotten it to work. If it doesn't pop off right away with minimal effort turning the wheel, then forcing it will just break things IMO.
#3122
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
#3123
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Frederick, Maryland
Posts: 6,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6 High output
It means you are having charging system problems - most likely your alternator is going bad. Go to your local auto parts store and get the computer read for DTC codes, and also get the battery/charging system load tested.
The solution could be as simple as installing new battery terminals, or as involved as changing the alternator.
The solution could be as simple as installing new battery terminals, or as involved as changing the alternator.
It was on all day on friday, but hasnt come on again since then. Thanks again dukie.
#3124
Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
I have the RE 3.5 lift. Which gave 4.5 in the front. And since my back shackles were from the lift I had on it before, it's at 5.5. I bought a 1 inch coil spacer to even the front out.
But I'm thinking, when we did the lift we did the track bar relocation. What effect would this 1 inch have on that? Will the axle become off center?
But I'm thinking, when we did the lift we did the track bar relocation. What effect would this 1 inch have on that? Will the axle become off center?
#3125
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Fan
Hey all- my fan will start and stop randomly- when idling, while driving and it sounds very rough... any ideas? Maybe they are happening b/c of eachother, but the car is idling rough now too all of the sudden. 99 Jeep Cherokee Classic. Appreciate y'all's help!
Best,
Christian
--Sorry, I clicked the wrong link. Wrong forum, wouldn't let me delete. Apologies all.
Best,
Christian
--Sorry, I clicked the wrong link. Wrong forum, wouldn't let me delete. Apologies all.
#3126
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 848
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I don't need that grey sticker do I? It keeps getting in my way lol. It just looks like it's there to contain wires but I only have a few wires running back there so it seems pointless.
#3127
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rocket Country MI
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i have noticed that without it there my old rig was really drafty
#3129
CF Veteran
It's there to help insulate & primarily to keep water, dust & moisture away from your wires & electronics (if you have any). The door panel does not do that. If you decide you don't want it, remove it carefully & send to me. I might be able to make it work for my '92.
#3130
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
place a 3 inch extension with one end of the extension on the edge of the axle and the other end against wheel hub. turn the wheel to pop the hub off.
There are a few reasons why i don't like this though...
1) your extension may turn into a lethal projectile
2) extreme stress on steering components
3) i've never actually gotten it to work. If it doesn't pop off right away with minimal effort turning the wheel, then forcing it will just break things IMO.
There are a few reasons why i don't like this though...
1) your extension may turn into a lethal projectile
2) extreme stress on steering components
3) i've never actually gotten it to work. If it doesn't pop off right away with minimal effort turning the wheel, then forcing it will just break things IMO.
It works better if you leave the brakes on and brake.
#3131
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
#3132
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Newton, New Jersey
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 (242) HO, Bored TB, SS Header, Magnaflow & Dynomax exhaust
Hello all,
I have just recently started to have a misfire issue with my 4.0 and after exhausting all options to externally fixing the problem and doing a compression test across all cylinders have determined I have a bad valve in the first cylinder. My father in-law said he could get me a good deal on a head so my thoughts are to just swap the head out.
My question is there anything else I should look for or be aware of when I pull the head and are there any tips, tricks or helpful hints any one can give so I can try and get this done in a weekend with little or no issues and problems. Also any materials that would be a good idea to replace when doing this, ie gaskets, seals nuts and bolts.
I have just recently started to have a misfire issue with my 4.0 and after exhausting all options to externally fixing the problem and doing a compression test across all cylinders have determined I have a bad valve in the first cylinder. My father in-law said he could get me a good deal on a head so my thoughts are to just swap the head out.
My question is there anything else I should look for or be aware of when I pull the head and are there any tips, tricks or helpful hints any one can give so I can try and get this done in a weekend with little or no issues and problems. Also any materials that would be a good idea to replace when doing this, ie gaskets, seals nuts and bolts.
#3133
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
Hello all,
I have just recently started to have a misfire issue with my 4.0 and after exhausting all options to externally fixing the problem and doing a compression test across all cylinders have determined I have a bad valve in the first cylinder. My father in-law said he could get me a good deal on a head so my thoughts are to just swap the head out.
My question is there anything else I should look for or be aware of when I pull the head and are there any tips, tricks or helpful hints any one can give so I can try and get this done in a weekend with little or no issues and problems. Also any materials that would be a good idea to replace when doing this, ie gaskets, seals nuts and bolts.
I have just recently started to have a misfire issue with my 4.0 and after exhausting all options to externally fixing the problem and doing a compression test across all cylinders have determined I have a bad valve in the first cylinder. My father in-law said he could get me a good deal on a head so my thoughts are to just swap the head out.
My question is there anything else I should look for or be aware of when I pull the head and are there any tips, tricks or helpful hints any one can give so I can try and get this done in a weekend with little or no issues and problems. Also any materials that would be a good idea to replace when doing this, ie gaskets, seals nuts and bolts.
If you do replace it you will need a new head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake/exhaust manifold gasket, thermostat housing gasket, replacement coolant, and new head bolts if the existing ones are marked with paint (meaning they were removed once before - they can only be reused once).
#3134
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 848
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by The Rooster
trust me you will want to keep that... its better then dymat
#3135
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rocket Country MI
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it'll keep your sound in and road noise out
same as heat in cold out, you get where i'm going
however it's not touted as a moisture barrier or absorber
dust and water protection would be as simple as cleaning or replacing window or door seals