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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Selling my XJ
Ok guys, its been a long road towards recovery and unfortunately I don't think I see an end. I'm going to sell my Cherokee and I need some help pricing it.
1999 Black Cherokee with 185,000 miles. 10k on the new cylinder head.
I'll start with it's background... In 2011, the jeep was rolled while wheeling and damage was done to the driver's side roof, door, and fender panel. No other damage was done. In 2012, the jeep was rear ended and minor damage was done to the rear bumper. The front bumper mounting brackets were damaged in a towing accident so the front bumper has been removed... Recently in an off-roading ordeal I seized the engine (I think). The jeep was at an angled position for an extended period of time and the radiator cap blew off for some reason. On the mile long drive back to my house (after I had let the jeep cool), the jeep started to stall out. Each time it stalled out it would become harder and harder for the starter to turn the engine over. Now, it turns over but at a painfully slow rate. No start. Also occurring in 2012, I cracked the cylinder head due to a failing water pump. I replaced the cylinder head (myself) and had a full valve job done on the new head.
The radiator, water pump, water lines, and thermostat have all been replaced within the last 2 years.
All of my fuel injection wiring has been replaced and the injectors have been upgraded to the Dodge Neon 784 injectors.
The jeep has a Rough Country 3" lift kit with front coils, control arms, and sway bar drop brackets only. Also in the front are 2" Teraflex coil spacers. In the rear, I assembled a bastard pack using 1 Cherokee leaf and 2 Dodge Dakota 1994 leafs (other leafs included). The net lift equates to about 5-6" inches all around.
I also installed a Quadratec HD chain in my transfer case along with the PORC Slip yoke eliminator. The rear driveshaft is a front XJ shaft.
The tires are 31" x 10.5" Rocky Mountain Falkens. Two tires (rear) are in great condition with 80-95% tread left and the front tires are in awful condition and should not be included in the price.
Excellent interior shape.
THE JEEP DOES NOT RUN.
Starter = good, grounds = good, batter = good, alt = good.
1999 Black Cherokee with 185,000 miles. 10k on the new cylinder head.
I'll start with it's background... In 2011, the jeep was rolled while wheeling and damage was done to the driver's side roof, door, and fender panel. No other damage was done. In 2012, the jeep was rear ended and minor damage was done to the rear bumper. The front bumper mounting brackets were damaged in a towing accident so the front bumper has been removed... Recently in an off-roading ordeal I seized the engine (I think). The jeep was at an angled position for an extended period of time and the radiator cap blew off for some reason. On the mile long drive back to my house (after I had let the jeep cool), the jeep started to stall out. Each time it stalled out it would become harder and harder for the starter to turn the engine over. Now, it turns over but at a painfully slow rate. No start. Also occurring in 2012, I cracked the cylinder head due to a failing water pump. I replaced the cylinder head (myself) and had a full valve job done on the new head.
The radiator, water pump, water lines, and thermostat have all been replaced within the last 2 years.
All of my fuel injection wiring has been replaced and the injectors have been upgraded to the Dodge Neon 784 injectors.
The jeep has a Rough Country 3" lift kit with front coils, control arms, and sway bar drop brackets only. Also in the front are 2" Teraflex coil spacers. In the rear, I assembled a bastard pack using 1 Cherokee leaf and 2 Dodge Dakota 1994 leafs (other leafs included). The net lift equates to about 5-6" inches all around.
I also installed a Quadratec HD chain in my transfer case along with the PORC Slip yoke eliminator. The rear driveshaft is a front XJ shaft.
The tires are 31" x 10.5" Rocky Mountain Falkens. Two tires (rear) are in great condition with 80-95% tread left and the front tires are in awful condition and should not be included in the price.
Excellent interior shape.
THE JEEP DOES NOT RUN.
Starter = good, grounds = good, batter = good, alt = good.
Last edited by denbjornen; 06-26-2013 at 05:55 PM.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ware Shoals, SC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ok so today I was driving my jeep and out of nowhere the battery gauge spiked to 19, I pulled over shut it off and all the gauges stayed where they were, when I turned it back to run they all jumped back down and the battery gauge read normal again, so I started it back up and everything was fine so I continued on to my destination. The jeep sat for a good 20-30 minutes and I headed home and it happened again so I took it to auto zone and they told me I had a bad battery and said the alternator might be over compensating for the bad battery, so my question is, is it most likely the battery or could it be the alternator/voltage regulator. I don't want to drop $100 on a battery if its not the issue, but I have noticed she has taken longer than usual to start... So what do you all think?
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Location: Ware Shoals, SC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Hartland Michigan
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I have a 1990 Laredo. i am having fuel pressure issues and i have put in the third pump in less then 6 months. First one was a defective part, the second lasted about a month and i was getting air in my fuel system. Just put the third in today and now i have no pressure at all. I have 12 volts to the pump, new filter, and the three ASE techs i work with can't figure it out. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I have a 1990 Laredo. i am having fuel pressure issues and i have put in the third pump in less then 6 months. First one was a defective part, the second lasted about a month and i was getting air in my fuel system. Just put the third in today and now i have no pressure at all. I have 12 volts to the pump, new filter, and the three ASE techs i work with can't figure it out. Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Maine
Posts: 230
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Hey all I have a problem with my passenger side side front window. Always has gone up and down slower than the other three. The other day all the windows were down and they all went up except for this side, so I took the panel off to bring the window up and it wouldn't stay up and anytime I use the switch I hear a grinding noise and the window does not move. Is something not aligned or the motor need replacing (window motor that is) cause its getting embarrassing driving with a bag on the door.
Hey all I have a problem with my passenger side side front window. Always has gone up and down slower than the other three. The other day all the windows were down and they all went up except for this side, so I took the panel off to bring the window up and it wouldn't stay up and anytime I use the switch I hear a grinding noise and the window does not move. Is something not aligned or the motor need replacing (window motor that is) cause its getting embarrassing driving with a bag on the door.
Hey all I have a problem with my passenger side side front window. Always has gone up and down slower than the other three. The other day all the windows were down and they all went up except for this side, so I took the panel off to bring the window up and it wouldn't stay up and anytime I use the switch I hear a grinding noise and the window does not move. Is something not aligned or the motor need replacing (window motor that is) cause its getting embarrassing driving with a bag on the door.
Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Maine
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
This should be it. Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...d=230999750268
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Ok so today I was driving my jeep and out of nowhere the battery gauge spiked to 19, I pulled over shut it off and all the gauges stayed where they were, when I turned it back to run they all jumped back down and the battery gauge read normal again, so I started it back up and everything was fine so I continued on to my destination. The jeep sat for a good 20-30 minutes and I headed home and it happened again so I took it to auto zone and they told me I had a bad battery and said the alternator might be over compensating for the bad battery, so my question is, is it most likely the battery or could it be the alternator/voltage regulator. I don't want to drop $100 on a battery if its not the issue, but I have noticed she has taken longer than usual to start... So what do you all think?
Dies as in "kills the PCM dead"? Because that's a great way to do that...
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
On later model XJs the alternator is externally regulated. What this means is that the PCM's VR module sends a signal to the alternator's field control that influences the voltage it produces. For this function to work, the PCM MUST have a reliable reference power feed and ground from the main battery. Without it the alternator can free run and pump as many volts as conditions allow, destroying all connected electronics.
The trick used to work on older vehicles but is like playing Russian Roulette with anything with a PCM or ECU
You seem to have missed my point.
On later model XJs the alternator is externally regulated. What this means is that the PCM's VR module sends a signal to the alternator's field control that influences the voltage it produces. For this function to work, the PCM MUST have a reliable reference power feed and ground from the main battery. Without it the alternator can free run and pump as many volts as conditions allow, destroying all connected electronics.
The trick used to work on older vehicles but is like playing Russian Roulette with anything with a PCM or ECU