cruiser54

Yeah. Keeps the BSers to a minimum, too!!

my89xj

Did a shake down run with my better tires upfront, got some wobble but no death wobble. Going to hit some of the spots that usually trigger it.

mcd58

i want to bedline my rockers, bumpers, and maybe my fender flares. i was wondering if anyone has used cans to do their rockers. i want to know how many i have to get. i used this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=bedliner to do my rails on my old ranger and they turned out great i think im going to use it again on my xj.

salad

Doing just the rockers or going partway up the doors? I spent an entire can on bumper and end caps, and a can on one side's rockers and doors including the trim molding. On the bottom of the rockers I've used rubberized undercoating though.

I'd buy 5 to be safe. Depends how many coats you do, too. Rubber stuff underneath works a mint.

mcd58

i was going to remove the trim and go up to that body line since my jeep was in a small accident and i have a few flakes of rust where the paint came off. it looks like possibly a shopping cart or something like that. i was thinking 3 coats for each side and im still debating on the fender flares.

87laredoxj

How would a person go about mounting nerf bars on an xj? A friend of mine gave me a set that fits perfectly I just don't know how I could mount them. Any help is great

wiggles

Bolt them on usually, if they don't have mounts that work you'll have to fan some

87laredoxj

they have mounts but just straight off the tube with two holes. I'm just not really sure where to bolt/weld them to.

wiggles

The unibody

donkeypunch

Do your motor mounts first....they were more fun than the rest. But instead of working top down go bottom up. That way any oil that does seep out from valve cover or OFA doesn't get on the ground or drip onto below components that you will be eventually laying in or getting dripped on.

Make sure you get your jeep as high up as you safely can and get your wheels as low at you can droop them to do the oil pan. Take tires off. Makes it muuuuch easier.

cruiser54

I prefer starting at the top for obvious reasons. That oil pan or oil filter adapter leak may really be coming from the valve cover above. Why do unnecessary work that can't be verified?

That's why I wrote this:




　

I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.

Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.

Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?

A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.

Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.

First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".

Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.

Revised 02-26-2013

DieselD

Craigslist: Jeep Cherokee Leaf Packs

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/pts/3908094099.html

Anyone got insight on what leaf packs those may be?

I can only see a tiny pic on my phone. I texted the guy but he hasn't answered yet.

Pam Skinner

Hi, I have a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 4.7 engine and actually have 2 questions.

1) The Cruise Control on light will turn on and stay on, however I can't set the cruise. I replaced the brake switch earlier this year due to a problem with the brake/tail lights (2nd question), and the Cruise Control was working at that time, it just stopped about a month ago. What else do I need to check? I've read on other sites to look at the vacuum hoses, but am unsure where to look for these.

2) The brake/tail lights stopped working, after researching and replacing fuses/brake switch and other low cost items I ended up replacing both brake/tail lights with a completely new package about 3 months ago. Now however, the driver side brake like is starting to short out again. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I live in a high humidity/dirt area (farms/gravel roads). Do I need to replace it again, and if so is there anything I can do to keep it from corroding/shorting out so soon again? (Personally I was thinking of wrapping the whole wire in electrical tape covered then by duct tape).

Thanks for any help provided.

NewKindOfClown

Rubicon Express. You can tell from the rebound clips.

...but the part number on the spring returns as Pro Comp.

I dunno.

DieselD

Hmmm. Interesting. I seen it had something on it (number) but couldn't make it out on my phone. Sounds like they're probably bigger than 2" springs then lol. Thanks.