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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:11 PM
  #32746  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
I prefer starting at the top for obvious reasons. That oil pan or oil filter adapter leak may really be coming from the valve cover above. Why do unnecessary work that can't be verified?


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If I was diagnosing a leak of some sort I would absolutely start 'looking' from top down and probably from front to back. I didn't see that he was talking of his RMS...if that's the case then absolutely do the valve cover and OFA first. Chances are it is NOT the RMS leaking.
But it sounded like the OP already knew what he wanted to change out, and just wanted some guidance to perform the work. Since all the components he lists do not interfere with the removal or replacement of their respective gaskets he can start anywhere. Hell start in the middle.....but always start out with a beverage!
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by donkeypunch
If I was diagnosing a leak of some sort I would absolutely start 'looking' from top down and probably from front to back. I didn't see that he was talking of his RMS...if that's the case then absolutely do the valve cover and OFA first. Chances are it is NOT the RMS leaking.
But it sounded like the OP already knew what he wanted to change out, and just wanted some guidance to perform the work. Since all the components he lists do not interfere with the removal or replacement of their respective gaskets he can start anywhere. Hell start in the middle.....but always start out with a beverage!
Thanks everyone, yeah I don't have any one major leak just small ones at each of those seals it's really annoying and the RMS is good so ill leave it be
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:09 PM
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What is the best way to re/attach emblems? Should I just gorilla glue them back on, or is there some special thing? For instance it looks like they had double sided sticky foam to hold them on from factory.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
What is the best way to re/attach emblems? Should I just gorilla glue them back on, or is there some special thing? For instance it looks like they had double sided sticky foam to hold them on from factory.
3m double sided molding tape. Iirc auto stores has it
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:09 PM
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If I listen to the radio and then turn my auxiliary HID Lights on, the radio becomes staticky as if I wasn't in range of the station..? Lights are wired from switch to relay/battery to lights
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by xj9901
If I listen to the radio and then turn my auxiliary HID Lights on, the radio becomes staticky as if I wasn't in range of the station..? Lights are wired from switch to relay/battery to lights
If you turn the radio off then on does it work right with the lights on?
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by xj9901
If I listen to the radio and then turn my auxiliary HID Lights on, the radio becomes staticky as if I wasn't in range of the station..? Lights are wired from switch to relay/battery to lights
Originally Posted by wiggles

If you turn the radio off then on does it work right with the lights on?
Chances are he's sharing a ground wire directly or the wires are run close to the antenna and the power is causing the disruption
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

Chances are he's sharing a ground wire directly or the wires are run close to the antenna and the power is causing the disruption
Mine does it with my hids every once and a while so I wondered if his was the same way
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Old 07-03-2013, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch

3m double sided molding tape. Iirc auto stores has it
Awesome thank you.

On another note, is there a common place to check for a crack or leak in the ac system. I've been wanting to recharge it but I'm afraid it may have a leak and I would be (more or less) throwing money away

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Old 07-03-2013, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper

Awesome thank you.

On another note, is there a common place to check for a crack or leak in the ac system. I've been wanting to recharge it but I'm afraid it may have a leak and I would be (more or less) throwing money away
Most leaks will be at a failed connection also check the condenser for rock strikes or the evap is corrosion, but if its 134a just charge the sucker, you could use soap bubbles also, were I work we use this gooey stuff thy makes a lot of bubbles when you hit a leak

Last edited by Kuro89; 07-03-2013 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:57 AM
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Is it possible to use an ax-15 from a Dakota v6 that was 2wd and convert tail housing for 4wd? Friend of mine has one just sitting at his house.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 87laredoxj
Is it possible to use an ax-15 from a Dakota v6 that was 2wd and convert tail housing for 4wd? Friend of mine has one just sitting at his house.
Yes. You need to remove the tail extension housing and replace the main shaft with one from a 4WD AX-15. You'll also need to swap the bell housing, clutch, bearings, etc and all that to make it bolt up to a 4.0.

If the Dakota transmission's in good shape and you have a trashed Jeep AX-15 with external slave and a 10-ton shop press you should be fine. I guess you could go internal slave if you wanted, but who wants to do that? lol
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:09 PM
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Yeah the transmission is in good shape going from an auto to 5 spd and he has it laying around.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:46 PM
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Anybody got a guide of how to remove a 97-01 hatch? Just don't wanna break anything else
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Call-_me-Jordan
Anybody got a guide of how to remove a 97-01 hatch? Just don't wanna break anything else
Get the struts loose and just undo the 4 15mm bolts from the hinge to the hatch, isn't too heavy, just big.
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