09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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07-05-2013, 01:19 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
A wrenchable (right word?) Socket
Turn the socket you do have with a vice grip or channel lock(the stud should be able to fit through the square "socket hole"
Try a box end wrench, a stubby? Ratcheting?
I've never had the pleasure of doing a head so I don't know for sure what would/could work.
07-05-2013, 01:21 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Probably the stupidest question I will ever ask. I've been doing a bunch of maintenance on the 98 Cherokee I just bought, however, I cannot figure out how to fold or remove the rear seats! It seems like it is stuck in the middle, I thought these things just slid up and out of the way or folded forward?
07-05-2013, 02:17 PM
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Model: Cherokee
There's a lever (as in the pic above) sometime you have to hit em both at the same time if they're a little stuck. Then there is little pull handles on the bottom bench, pull it up and forward. There should also be a lever I believe, to remove the bottom part all together.
07-05-2013, 02:19 PM
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Year: '99 and '91
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07-05-2013, 02:23 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
tie rod end to pitman arm .. lost dust boot
93 XJ 4x4, 3" lift
do the dust boots do anything besides keep dirt out? or does it aid in dampening?
noticed the boot I replaced 6 months ago is gone .. tie rod end to pitman arm
been thinking my track bar needs a pro to tighten it (upper attach), popping sound coming from that area, only when warm outside .. cold temps, no pop
OR .. do you think the tie rod end is bad ? really hard to pin point the pop sound .. only does it when in motion and turning
was about to replace the boot again .. but why waste $5 if the tie rod is bad, any other way to test it ?
thanks
do the dust boots do anything besides keep dirt out? or does it aid in dampening?
noticed the boot I replaced 6 months ago is gone .. tie rod end to pitman arm
been thinking my track bar needs a pro to tighten it (upper attach), popping sound coming from that area, only when warm outside .. cold temps, no pop
OR .. do you think the tie rod end is bad ? really hard to pin point the pop sound .. only does it when in motion and turning
was about to replace the boot again .. but why waste $5 if the tie rod is bad, any other way to test it ?
thanks
07-05-2013, 02:56 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Depends on what you wanna use it for. I use spray on Rustoluem, $8 a can at Walmart. Look around for sales on roll on bedliner. Everyone has there own favorite. I like MonsterLiner for floors. But use spray on Rustoluem on plastic and body lines.
07-05-2013, 03:03 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm doing the interior. How many spray cans should I get? Where's the monster stuff sold at?
07-05-2013, 03:26 PM
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Model: Cherokee
I have no question to submit today but I do have an apology to submit. To all of you who read my post of me acting like a JERK especially Lowrange and Odgreen Im sorry! I know you guys read a lot of the same questions from some of us over and over and I can see where that would be annoying ! I will from now on do a little research before I post a question. In short I'm sorry and I can honestly tell you it won't happen again. Thanks to all of you for your help so far in helping me with my " almost done 89 XJ project " Have fun wheelin this weekend! Thanks again, Ron
Last edited by unionfitter; 07-05-2013 at 10:39 PM.
07-05-2013, 03:44 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Interior trim? I'd get 3 or 4 cans, sometimes you don't get a full can of use. Also will be able to do multiple coats. MonsterLiner is usually sold at auto part stores, Lowes, Home Depot. Shop around for a good deal.
07-05-2013, 05:56 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
07-05-2013, 05:57 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Might not even need to do that. and you can use the HO head if you want.
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Revised 03/28/13
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
Revised 03/28/13
07-05-2013, 06:59 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
07-05-2013, 07:00 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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07-05-2013, 07:02 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6