Originally Posted by 01Cherokee_Sport

this x2 happened to my 01 a while back

Originally Posted by ptreaster

Any body know the PN of a good valve cover gasket ( not cork ) napa or felpro for the 4.0

Originally Posted by mitchlikesbikes

if my serpentine belt stops moving and squeals when i kick on the AC, does that mean my compressor is seized?

Originally Posted by Hamster

Greetings everyone.
I had a no start situation Saturday morning...................turned the key and nothing, not even a click.
Battery voltage was good and I'd noticed the starter had been sounding slower than normal so, I gave it a couple of good firm taps with a hammer. It tried to engage but then made a strange noise.
Figured starter had locked up so, I bought a new one. Installed the new one, still nothing. Took both starters to the parts store and had them bench tested to make sure I didn't get a bad one. The new one worked like a charm.
The old one worked but, was much slower and shot out a spark when they applied power to it.
I figured it probably messed up the starter relay so I began testing it (step by step according to MotorAllData). 1st 2 tests showed it was good but, the 3rd test showed the problem. I've got 12 volts going into the relay but, only 9 volts going to the starter. Anyone else had this problem? Does it sound like the relay is the problem to you guys or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Unfortunately, none of the auto parts stores that are open on Sunday, had one in stock so I'll have to wait until Monday and call APC from work to see if they might have one.

Originally Posted by ORourkester

when ever I go up one certain hill on my way to work my rpms rises and drops like a roller coaster ive noticed if I hold the gas down and accelerate it will stop the malfunction but if I keep it steady it goes off, does anyone know what could be happening? thanks

Originally Posted by tjwalker

The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

Originally Posted by theyammieguy

Trying to figure out how to build a snorkel. I want to do away with the stock air box, (I plan on adding transmission and power steering coolers in that location).

I would like to do a cowl snorkel, but I need an inline filter, or run a filter on top of the snorkel. I was thinking about coming out of the cowl on the drivers side. What kind of filter or box could I run, that won't get effected by rain?

Originally Posted by XJ=mistress

Is this my rear main seal ? Well half of it?

I was changing my oil pan and accidentally broke this. I'm pretty sure it is, just want to double check with you guys.

Originally Posted by salad

Sounds like your battery cables may be toastola.

Which wire do you only see 9V on? The little green one?