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Old 07-15-2013, 11:39 PM
  #33256  
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Originally Posted by hick92

My wallet is empty after a day at six flags
Every time you post you are broke. If I spent a few hours qoting your posts I couls probably find 100's where you say you are broke
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:41 PM
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Ok, I've never done much wrenching on any of my cars, the most I did was on my first car and some of my cousins cars over 7 years ago. Going to the salvage yard tomorrow to get a few things for the new XJ and Im not sure how to get a couple of those items off. First is the factory fog light switch. Second, and this will be a bit of a long shot and assuming there's one in good shape there, would be the headliner. Any write ups out there on taking these out or could anyone give me a quick walk through?

Eh, amending this a bit. I initially wanted to do the salvage yard route after seeing prices like $60 on retail sites but found the switches on eBay for a reasonable price. Is it safe to assume TJs and XJs share the same switches?

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Old 07-15-2013, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s

Every time you post you are broke. If I spent a few hours qoting your posts I couls probably find 100's where you say you are broke
Lots of people with jeeps usually have empty wallets... Haha..
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:55 PM
  #33259  
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Originally Posted by SDKmann
Ok, I've never done much wrenching on any of my cars, the most I did was on my first car and some of my cousins cars over 7 years ago. Going to the salvage yard tomorrow to get a few things for the new XJ and Im not sure how to get a couple of those items off. First is the factory fog light switch. Second, and this will be a bit of a long shot and assuming there's one in good shape there, would be the headliner. Any write ups out there on taking these out or could anyone give me a quick walk through?

Eh, amending this a bit. I initially wanted to do the salvage yard route after seeing prices like $60 on retail sites but found the switches on eBay for a reasonable price. Is it safe to assume TJs and XJs share the same switches?
No idea on the headliner, you'll be able to find writeups where people reupholster them that should have some details.

As far as the switches, yes, 97+ XJs and TJs use the same switches. Pulling them is really easy... shifter in 1-2 (or 4th if a stick), grab at the bottom of the center bezel and pull rearwards. Switches are in a panel secured by 3 or 4 #2 Phillips screws. Connectors have an annoying tab that needs a good squeezing to depress so that they'll pop out, and a small slot screwdriver to depress the tabs that hold the switches into the bezel.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:02 AM
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Appreciated. What started out as adding a few things to the XJ got expensive real fast, so if its that easy Ill go with the salvage yard.

So I did find a few threads about repairing headliners, unfortunately none yet with a removal DIY, but is it true that there's really nothing I can do for the headliner currently in my XJ other than replacing it or completely recovering it? Mine isn't too bad just sagging in a couple places.
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:24 AM
  #33261  
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Originally Posted by SDKmann
Ok, I've never done much wrenching on any of my cars, the most I did was on my first car and some of my cousins cars over 7 years ago. Going to the salvage yard tomorrow to get a few things for the new XJ and Im not sure how to get a couple of those items off. First is the factory fog light switch. Second, and this will be a bit of a long shot and assuming there's one in good shape there, would be the headliner. Any write ups out there on taking these out or could anyone give me a quick walk through?

Eh, amending this a bit. I initially wanted to do the salvage yard route after seeing prices like $60 on retail sites but found the switches on eBay for a reasonable price. Is it safe to assume TJs and XJs share the same switches?
Remove all the pillar trims to drop the headliner. Good headliners are still out there. To remove the trim pieces, pop the covers off with a knife. Then unscrew the screw with a Phillips head. If there are "Jesus" handles, pop off cover and unscrew or use a Torx bit as needed. I would start from the A pillar since its probably the hardest and work your way back. About a 1/2 hour job if rusty screws are there.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
All the time or only when accelerating? The actuator for switching between defrost and other vents is all the way to the driver's side and is the upper one.
Cruiser, can you elabroate? Does "all the time and only when accelerating" have two different causes?
And this actuator you speak of - can you describe the location a little more clearly?
One more thing - does anyone know where the vacuum check valve would be located on a 98 classic? I am thinking the PO removed if there was one originally.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by donkeypunch
Cruiser, can you elabroate? Does "all the time and only when accelerating" have two different causes?
And this actuator you speak of - can you describe the location a little more clearly?
One more thing - does anyone know where the vacuum check valve would be located on a 98 classic? I am thinking the PO removed if there was one originally.
I'm most familiar with the earlier models, not 98s. I think the 98s may have elecrically actuated door motors in the HVAC system, where the earlier had vacuum actuated.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:55 AM
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Direction door is still vacuum actuated, blend door is still cable activated. Electric blend door in 1999
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by donkeypunch
Cruiser, can you elabroate? Does "all the time and only when accelerating" have two different causes?
Yes, the latter indicates a severe vacuum leak, the former a problem with the reservoir. Under acceleration the engine's fed way more air so available vacuum is reduced, that's why the ball inside the bumper is important.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by salad
Direction door is still vacuum actuated, blend door is still cable activated. Electric blend door in 1999
I rely on you, Radi, and CCKen for all this new-fangled stuff. Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:13 AM
  #33267  
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Im swapping my idiot light gauge cluster for one with gauges this weekend. I know I need to swap the oil pressure sending unit and coolant temp sending unit. Heres my stupid question, do I need to drain the oil or coolant first?
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Old 07-16-2013, 08:16 AM
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Not the oil. And if you work fast, not any coolant.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:04 AM
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anyone know the part number of the dust shield on a zj rear disc backing plates? have the plates, need the shields. (the thin sheet metal piece) maybe they don't get sold separately because the shields come riveted to backing plates? only reason i want them is because i think they are needed for e-brake to hook up correctly. i'm still looking.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by T1XJ
anyone know the part number of the dust shield on a zj rear disc backing plates? have the plates, need the shields. (the thin sheet metal piece) maybe they don't get sold separately because the shields come riveted to backing plates? only reason i want them is because i think they are needed for e-brake to hook up correctly. i'm still looking.
Can't recall how the E-brake lever goes through (rust... lol) but I do recall the whole mess is riveted together. I found this that indicates they're sold as a single unit: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../04796343.html
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