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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Quebec
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm sorry I kept saying 3rd line but what I really mean what the 4th. That is not my gauge (google images does wonders), I'm at work right now and anyways, mine is in celcius, but the rest is the same.
When it hits the 4th line (3/4), the fan kicks in and it drops a little, but will come back soon after when I stop at lights or in a drive through like someone said.
I'll start by pressure washing the radiator, if that doesn't help I'll check out the cooling system, and if that doesn't work out, well then I'll get someone that knows what he's doing to look at it.
Thanks to everyone!
When it hits the 4th line (3/4), the fan kicks in and it drops a little, but will come back soon after when I stop at lights or in a drive through like someone said.
I'll start by pressure washing the radiator, if that doesn't help I'll check out the cooling system, and if that doesn't work out, well then I'll get someone that knows what he's doing to look at it.
Thanks to everyone!
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Like this:
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 02-26-2013
I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF.
Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking.
Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it?
A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons.
First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 02-26-2013
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Chances are your fan clutch is toast. They're regular wear items, if yours is original, that thing should've been replaced in 2006. Same thing goes for your water pump
Easy check - get the Jeep up to temperature, park it, WEAR A GLOVE, and try to spin the mech fan. It should be extremely difficult to turn and/or lock up after a rotation. If it spins freely it's shot.
Easy check - get the Jeep up to temperature, park it, WEAR A GLOVE, and try to spin the mech fan. It should be extremely difficult to turn and/or lock up after a rotation. If it spins freely it's shot.
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
anyone know the part number of the dust shield on a zj rear disc backing plates? have the plates, need the shields. (the thin sheet metal piece) maybe they don't get sold separately because the shields come riveted to backing plates? only reason i want them is because i think they are needed for e-brake to hook up correctly. i'm still looking.
Can't recall how the E-brake lever goes through (rust... lol) but I do recall the whole mess is riveted together. I found this that indicates they're sold as a single unit: http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/.../04796343.html
thanks salad, i confirmed that also. i went to the dealer and it's discontinued, sold as a unit, shield and backing plate together as i thought. so now i'll be deciding if i want to convert to disc brakes with no shield in back, i think it is not absolutely necessary for the shield to be there. i would rather have it though, so maybe i'll wait till i can get some better condition plates(mine are from junkyard and are rusted) with the shields intact.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
That said, maybe you can get some steel and use the rusty one as a template
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
I've searched all over, and I've come up short. I need to know what color the tail light wire is. It's been out for a month or so, and I've been lucky enough to not get pulled over (I have to work at night some days). But I got pulled over the other night, and I do NOT have $204 to spend on a ticket. It can be waived if I have proof that the lights are fixed.
So, that's my question. Any reply before midnight would help immensely. And I'm slightly brain dead when it comes to car wiring, minus changing speakers. So I'm sorry if this is actually the easiest question to answer.
So, that's my question. Any reply before midnight would help immensely. And I'm slightly brain dead when it comes to car wiring, minus changing speakers. So I'm sorry if this is actually the easiest question to answer.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Baltimore, MD
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
I just got my new u bolts in the mail. Theyre not powder coated or painted, just zinc plated. Can I paint them and theyll still go together fine?
CF Veteran
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Location: shawnee,ks
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Location: Chickamauga Ga.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
CF Veteran
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Ok, I googled and I can't find it again. Does anyone have a link for the rear bumpstop plates that go on the u bolts????
CF Veteran
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Did a quick search but I just wanted to verify. I am low on coolant and plan to pick some up tomorrow. Its below the add line so I want to add some immediately. What can I use, I know there are combinations you aren't suppose to mix because they destroy the system.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II