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Old 07-25-2013, 09:56 PM
  #33691  
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My hope is to make the trans run cooler, not so much the rad. I don't have any cooling issues at the moment, I just figured they could run cooler separated as apposed to together in one unit.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
I've got a 96 jeep cherokee 4.0 and I plan on doing a general tune up soon I was wondering what the best plugs, wires and rotor are I wanna get the best performance ones I can and don't know much about that stuff also later on in the next few months thinking about putting new four hole injectors and a new fuel filter my air filter is clean and I plan on moving it to the cowl and probably putting a cone filter on it.

Thanks!
I don't know much about spark plugs but NGK Vpower is the recommended one.
As for air filter, check out nanofiber technology. Its amazing and flows very well. Its the new thing with Nascar. Unless you have many more modifications on your jeep such as headers, free flow exhaust and/or more aggressive cam..... you wont gain much if anything with a cone filter.

Check here for what would be best for everything you need for the 96
http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/Vehic...EEP+CHEROKEE+S
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:03 PM
  #33693  
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
I've got a 96 jeep cherokee 4.0 and I plan on doing a general tune up soon I was wondering what the best plugs, wires and rotor are I wanna get the best performance ones I can and don't know much about that stuff also later on in the next few months thinking about putting new four hole injectors and a new fuel filter my air filter is clean and I plan on moving it to the cowl and probably putting a cone filter on it.

Thanks!
Rebuilt 703 injectors will be nice
Champion Copper plugs are what you want. Cheap and your 4.0's like them.
Live wires are nice.

I'd but everything else from the parts store.
Originally Posted by XJ=mistress
My hope is to make the trans run cooler, not so much the rad. I don't have any cooling issues at the moment, I just figured they could run cooler separated as apposed to together in one unit.
I run the Hayden cooler from O Reilly in series after the rad on mine, gauge isn't installed yet but so far so good. That unit should suit you just fine, or any larger one from the JY wouldn't hurt it.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
That's called the air dam. There are two (one per side) 10mm nuts & bolts affixing it to the bumper caps, and a handful of press-in plastic fasteners that hold it to the bumper. They're like these:

Remove with a small prying tool or side cutters. You'll want to buy some to replace em, all auto parts stores have them.
How do I get to the tops of those bolts? Also, what size fasteners do I need as replacements?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
I've got a 96 jeep cherokee 4.0 and I plan on doing a general tune up soon I was wondering what the best plugs, wires and rotor are I wanna get the best performance ones I can and don't know much about that stuff also later on in the next few months thinking about putting new four hole injectors and a new fuel filter my air filter is clean and I plan on moving it to the cowl and probably putting a cone filter on it.

Thanks!
Go to Napa. Get NGK plugs, Belden wires and Napa Premium cap and rotor.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:31 PM
  #33696  
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Originally Posted by XJ=mistress
My hope is to make the trans run cooler, not so much the rad. I don't have any cooling issues at the moment, I just figured they could run cooler separated as apposed to together in one unit.
Google conduction vs convection cooling! There is a reason it runs through the radiator.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:39 PM
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So need some help. Started my lift install and the bolt of my passenger rear leaf spring is seized to the sleeve. It started to come out of the other side and I can't get leverage on the sleeve so I can turn the bolt out. I've tried vice grips, pb blaster, and a propane torch to try and free the bolt from the sleeve. You guys have any ideas? Should I go out and buy a saw zaw and cut that ****er out?
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:42 PM
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Id keep working at it with heat and PB. I don't know if it's out enough that cutting it would let it drop down.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Id keep working at it with heat and PB. I don't know if it's out enough that cutting it would let it drop down.
You've almost popped the sleeve through the bolt hole, you might as well just pull it all out at once.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Get it. Try a Napa 703-1396 cap on the bottle. I'll bet it's fine.
Thank you. Hopefully it hasn't been sold yet!
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by stitch702
So need some help. Started my lift install and the bolt of my passenger rear leaf spring is seized to the sleeve. It started to come out of the other side and I can't get leverage on the sleeve so I can turn the bolt out. I've tried vice grips, pb blaster, and a propane torch to try and free the bolt from the sleeve. You guys have any ideas? Should I go out and buy a saw zaw and cut that ****er out?
Has it come out of the welded nut all the way? I'd just cut it off
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:09 PM
  #33702  
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Originally Posted by SDKmann
How do I get to the tops of those bolts? Also, what size fasteners do I need as replacements?
They're like 1" long, they literally only hold the plastic air dam to the plastic bumper caps. 1/4" nuts & bolts from the hardware store will suffice.

As for the plastic things they've got different names, fir tree pins and trim fasteners are a couple. They're a standard size. Take the old ones to the store with you
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Has it come out of the welded nut all the way? I'd just cut it off
No I don't believe it has come out all the way. Going to try your ideas in the morning when I have light. Thanks guys!
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:35 AM
  #33704  
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Originally Posted by stitch702
No I don't believe it has come out all the way. Going to try your ideas in the morning when I have light. Thanks guys!
When that happens to me I get it out as far as possible, cut both sides of the bolt, get the shackle out of the way and weld a nut on what's left of the bolt threads in the unibody and finish threading it out.
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:43 AM
  #33705  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
When that happens to me I get it out as far as possible, cut both sides of the bolt, get the shackle out of the way and weld a nut on what's left of the bolt threads in the unibody and finish threading it out.
I don't do any of that crap at all!!

But I live in Arizona. What's rust?
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