94XjSport94

Installing my 98's booster and MC on my 94, any fitment problems on the firewall?

my89xj

Shouldn't be, I Know GC one can fit in there as well.

cruiser54

5 quarts of Rotella 15-40 and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil, using a Napa Gold filter.

Warm it up and then hold it at 3500 RPM for 3 solid minutes. Repeat the revving as needed.

karl4x4

Your tires will move outboard 2.25" your up travel will be definitely reduced.

I run 34" tires on 5.25 with only minor trimming (not even visible from the untrained eye) with minimal rubbing at full flex. Look at my picture.

If you have more of a street driven vehicle and look is a concern over functionality then I'd say they will work fine for you.

straightsixjeep

Thanks for the reply. My xj is my daily driver and I only put 30-50mi on her a week. I did the cut and fold in the rear and trimmed the front. I have extended bump stops front and rear. I have accepted the fact that there will be more stress on the bearings however the wider stance it better for off camber situations. Do you think 31x10.5s will still fit in the wheel well with 3in backspaced rims? Im about to drive 1.5 hours to pick them up. He said they are off a 78' dodge 4x4. I want to be able to stuff the tires still.

Crashmurray1985

So I was taking my engine apart to replace the head gasket and took the valve cover off an it was black (like exhaust black) then when I got down to the head an underneath where the raisers are it was that black and crusted on there any ideas on what to do I sprayed alittle wd40 on a rag and tried to wipe alittle off and it's on there solid any advice would be great it's a 89 jeep cherokee

straightsixjeep

Sounds like a sludgy engine and perhaps normal corrosion where the head meets the block. Got a picture? You can try a wire brush on the corrosion. May look into a machine shop cleaning up the head for you and perhaps a pressure check before you re-install.

Crashmurray1985

Yeah it doesn't look sludgy just like exhaust on everything it's weird burnt almost. I just want to see if it's normal or what I haven't ever seen them like this so was checking with other keepers that may have done this or seen this before on what to do

mendowallace707

'99 Cherokee 4dr Sport 2wd with 5 Speed Manual. So the Cherokee has had a squeak almost similar to a loose belt. Replaced belt and idler and still makes the noise from time to time. Only makes the noise when taking off in first, after shifting into second, and sometimes a little into third than goes away. Had the girl stand outside while I took off in 1st a few times and she says its not coming from the front but more towards center so maybe some kind of clutch bearing?

Now here's my real problem. Driving to the store the other day, the clutch pedal went from nice a stiff to absolutely nothing the next second. Fluid is Max Full and nothing was underneath (Have read that the slave usually will leak fluid when it goes out?). I don't know a whole lot about clutches but is it possible a bearing was making the squeaky sound and maybe froze up? Not sure if a bad bearing would cause the pedal to go limp. Sounds more like a fluid issue. Bad master?

aircruiser

Does the pedal get firmer as you pump it? My buddies 97 with a 5 speed had problems with his going soft, turned out to be the slave cylinder. Never head a squeak though. Have you checked your ujoints? They get squeaky when they die.

mendowallace707

No when we picked it up with the flat bed I pumped it tons and changed nothing. I haven't inspected the U Joints closely but while putting some syncromesh fluid in there the other day, I grabbed the driveshaft to see if it had slack and it felt pretty tight. Never makes the squeak when idling or in reverse. The squeak is irritating but having no clutch is killing me. Been driving my SAS S10 ZR2 with detroit locker for the last 2 weeks and would like to be able to drive the Jeep again as the DD haha... Thanks for the quick response btw

karl4x4

You are not to far off saying its like exhaust. A lot of it is caused by "blowby" which in itself is exhaust.
As far as cleaning the head, Once its out like this, if you don't want to take it all appart (recommended) You could use a strong engine degreaser and let it soak for a bit WD40 won't cut it. or even a varsol bath.
You can even pressure wash the degreaser off (not ideal but it works) as long as you dry it up with air right away.

For the rest of the engine, not much you can do, if you have the oil pan off you can use that same degreaser but remember, the cam needs some lube right away on start up. You will have to remove every lifter one at at time and cover flat surface with assembly lube before you put them back in and prime the engine before cranking it.

I would have used a engine flush before disassembly myself but after its assembled and had warmed up for at min 20min (important) I would put an engine flush in it like seafoam or Amsoil and run it at varying RPM between 1000 and 2500 then flush it all and put new oil in it (don't forget to replace the filter) It may take more than one flush to clean it all so I would flush it at every oil change after that until you can go at least 5000km without your oil turning black. A clean healthy engine should easily run over 5000km without your engine oil turning black.

Long winded answer I know. I take my engines pretty seriously

karl4x4

Squeaky driveshafts are not always loose. I spray WD40 on the cups and if it runs rusty they are gone..
If clutch is not loosing fluid at all, I would suspect the master cylinder. Any failure below will most likely cause a leak.

mendowallace707

Thanks for the info. I had a feeling it was the master but like to ask questions and research before spending money I don't have on parts I didn't need haha. Think its worth the extra money for a Master/Slave kit that I think I read about somewhere on here? From Quadratec IIRC.

karl4x4

Not sure if you have external or internal cylinder but When I replaced mine (external) I just got a used one. I got the whole thing, top and bottom and lines and all. Didn't even have to bleed it.
Cost me $10 from some that was parting a wrecked Jeep.
But, a rebuild kit works too.
I have one bran new in the box here I ordered before I found the complete assy for dirt cheep.
but I think Im to far from everyone on this forum. Im in Vancouver BC