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Old 07-27-2013, 11:03 PM
  #33766  
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Originally Posted by Cane
Oh and I just clicked, there was no gasket when I took it off...? Is that normal? Could that be my issue?
Uh, yeah.
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:06 PM
  #33767  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Uh, yeah.
But if there was none before I had an issue, why was it still working fine?
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:08 PM
  #33768  
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Originally Posted by Cane
But if there was none before I had an issue, why was it still working fine?
Who gives a **** at this point? Needs to have a frickin' gasket!!!
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:34 PM
  #33769  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Who gives a **** at this point? Needs to have a frickin' gasket!!!
This. Its under $5 for a gasket. Get one and put it on
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:34 PM
  #33770  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

Who gives a **** at this point? Needs to have a frickin' gasket!!!
This. Its under $5 for a gasket. Get one and put it onv
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Crashmurray1985
Ok so this is normal then for a engine to look this way yeah I wasn't thinking about putting stuff into the engine before pulling it I knew I should have and have before just wasn't thinking about it before I started pulling stuff thanks again
Actually, Its normal for some engine. every high mileage engine I pulled open that ran conventional oil with what I assume infrequent oil changes looked like that. (customers engines)

When I opened mine up after 513 000km to stroke it to 4.7L, It was only dirty where oil accumulate and doesn't drain. I ran synthetic (Amsoil and Mobile1) and changed it once a year with a filter change every 6 month. I did flush it before every oil change. Now after the rebuilt, I can't have extended oil changed anymore because of the extra load on the cam (and its not recommended on high performance engines) I only use Amsoil Zrod and it starts getting dirty after around 10000km at which time I change it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:58 AM
  #33772  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206

Yeah I'll have to check into that. Do you work there?
Yeah I work there for now. Might leave for a better paying job.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:15 AM
  #33773  
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Originally Posted by Darkvampmaster
So i went to take off one of my lug nuts and it wouldnt come off...... It just spins the lug..... Aluminum wheels..... Used a chisel and a hammer hoping to brake the lug nut...... no luck just gummed it all up..... How do i get it off without having to replace the rims at 120 a pop! Please give me ideas!!!! PM me please!!!!
thanks in advance!
Some shop are able to do it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:46 AM
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Can't find an answer to this one, been searching on multiple sites. Will 30s fit on the stock tire carrier? If not is there any way to make them fit?
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:48 AM
  #33775  
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Originally Posted by SDKmann
Can't find an answer to this one, been searching on multiple sites. Will 30s fit on the stock tire carrier? If not is there any way to make them fit?
Don't see why not
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:16 PM
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Took the jeep on a road trip yesterday, and was pushing her hard, my buddy noticed that I was smoking from under the jeep so pulled over and there was atf all over the bottom of the car, got it home on flat bed and now I cant find the leak or were the atf was coming from it looks to me to be coming from the aw4 bellhousing, has anyone ever had this problem or know what to do thanks.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SDKmann
Can't find an answer to this one, been searching on multiple sites. Will 30s fit on the stock tire carrier? If not is there any way to make them fit?
It'll fit.

Originally Posted by dannyboy2012
Took the jeep on a road trip yesterday, and was pushing her hard, my buddy noticed that I was smoking from under the jeep so pulled over and there was atf all over the bottom of the car, got it home on flat bed and now I cant find the leak or were the atf was coming from it looks to me to be coming from the aw4 bellhousing, has anyone ever had this problem or know what to do thanks.
Your transmission got hot and blew ATF past the front seal. Unless it got REALLY hot the seal is probably still fine.

Add a transmission cooler, gear your axles correctly and drive in 3rd when pushing it harder than normal.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:41 PM
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Sounds good so were can i a trans cooler compatible with the aw4. And do you know of any threads that show regearing or changing the seal i'll keep looking but hard to find for some reason thanks.
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Old 07-28-2013, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dannyboy2012
Took the jeep on a road trip yesterday, and was pushing her hard, my buddy noticed that I was smoking from under the jeep so pulled over and there was atf all over the bottom of the car, got it home on flat bed and now I cant find the leak or were the atf was coming from it looks to me to be coming from the aw4 bellhousing, has anyone ever had this problem or know what to do thanks.
its not unusual for the trans cooler lines going to the rad rub in obscure places and puncture or rust trough. Probably why you can't find the leak.

If you don't see obvious damage, re-fill transmission with proper oil, have a buddy start it and see it come out. Turn it off. It will leak enough to empty the line. Now all you have to do is change/fix the line. No worries, its not high pressure.
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Old 07-28-2013, 02:49 PM
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Default Brand MC/Slave Kit?

About to order a prebled Master Cylinder, Slave, and line kit from Rock Auto and was curious about what brand xj owners would recommend:

Rhinopac (Most Popular on the site) $89.79
Brute Power / Perfection $113.79
Dorman $123.79
Sachs $123.79
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