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07-28-2013, 11:49 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Did you connect the muffler to the exhaust pipe with exhaust clamps? Once you tighten the nuts for the clamp it indents the pipe and the muffler inlet/outlet which is hard to seperate. With any clamps removed, start tapping on the muffler with a soft mallet. Start easy so you dont ding it up. Tap one side then the other, back and forth. If you really cant get it off then cut it and weld in a cherry bomb.
07-28-2013, 11:55 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
I just did mine yesterday from the muffler back. It had a turn down right off of the muffler. I used the factory "tailpipe" from O'Reilly auto parts and bought some flex repair pipe from there also. This is how it turned out. If you look closely at the left there is a factory hanger above the rear axle.
07-28-2013, 11:57 PM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
I just did mine yesterday from the muffler back. It had a turn down right off of the muffler. I used the factory "tailpipe" from O'Reilly auto parts and bought some flex repair pipe from there also. This is how it turned out. If you look closely at the left there is a factory hanger above the rear axle.
07-29-2013, 12:04 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Tap the muffler with a mallet. Only tap the front of the muffler, or the inlet side. Tap to the left and right of the inlet, back and forth. If its mega clamped on your going to have to cut it. I removed my stock muffler because the rocks had gotten to it. Ordered a $35 cherry bomb glasspack and it takes up a lot less room and sounds mean. Thats with a high flow cat however. I did the same muffler/cat combo on my friends xj except his doesnt have a tailpipe and is pretty darn loud. In a good way.
07-29-2013, 12:05 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Tap the muffler with a mallet. Only tap the front of the muffler, or the inlet side. Tap to the left and right of the inlet, back and forth. If its mega clamped on the your going to have to cut it. I removed my stock muffler because the rocks had gotten to it. Ordered a $35 cherry bomb glasspack and it takes up a lot less room and sounds mean. Thats with a high flow cat however. I did the same muffler/cat combo on my friends xj except his doesnt have a tailpipe and is pretty darn loud. In a good way.
07-29-2013, 12:40 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Driver Door Sag
1999 with driver door sag due to slack in the upper and lower hinge pins/bushings.
I see 2 options:
1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.
Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
I see 2 options:
1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.
Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
07-29-2013, 12:58 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1999 with driver door sag due to slack in the upper and lower hinge pins/bushings.
I see 2 options:
1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.
Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
I see 2 options:
1. spend >$100 and get factory hinges and find a welder to replace everything.
2. Perform a doorless mod to "replace" the failed hinge pins/bushings.
Does anyone have an opinion on which route they'd go or pose an addition option?
07-29-2013, 05:37 AM
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
1995 XJ, AX-15 tranny. External slave cylinder. After warmed up, clutch pedal squeaks when pressed and is kinda sticking as pedal is released. Works fine when cold. Thinking of changing out master/slave assembly first. Thoughts?
07-29-2013, 06:34 AM
Junior Member
its not unusual for the trans cooler lines going to the rad rub in obscure places and puncture or rust trough. Probably why you can't find the leak.
If you don't see obvious damage, re-fill transmission with proper oil, have a buddy start it and see it come out. Turn it off. It will leak enough to empty the line. Now all you have to do is change/fix the line. No worries, its not high pressure.
If you don't see obvious damage, re-fill transmission with proper oil, have a buddy start it and see it come out. Turn it off. It will leak enough to empty the line. Now all you have to do is change/fix the line. No worries, its not high pressure.
07-29-2013, 06:37 AM
Junior Member
Alright, so i dont know if this started recently or not but yesterday i was on the highway going about 75. let off the gas and i instantly slowed down to 60....going downhill.....coasting. it was like driving a golf cart down a hill that has a governer or a limiter on it, it felt like something was pulling me back, my driveshaft was making a grinding noise I THINK. thing is...when i was going 50 i let off and i coasted fine, no abrute slowing down. :/
07-29-2013, 06:51 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Shoulda clarified this earlier. Temp sending unit for gauge.
07-29-2013, 07:13 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
My concern is this:
I don'r know when the senders changed from just sending a signal to the gauge to sending a signal to a PCM so it can run the gauge.
I don'r know when the senders changed from just sending a signal to the gauge to sending a signal to a PCM so it can run the gauge.
07-29-2013, 07:26 AM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hmm I didn't think of that. Issue is idk if that is my problem or not, I know my sensor is broken regardless. Not sure if in have a bad wire somewhere.
07-29-2013, 07:29 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0