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Old 07-29-2013, 09:19 AM
  #33841  
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
So I was planing on changeing my distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs today but then I was looking up how to do the rotor/cap and it seams a bit more complacaited then I thought I tried to look up some how to's but couldnt find one that seamed to make sense I haven't done it before I'm kinda new to it I know little about mechanics but just got my jeep a few months ago

Thanks!
Nothing hard about the cap at all. Two screws off, two screws on. Rotor is keyed, can't screw it up.

The only 'tricky' part I guess is remembering where all the wires go. My suggestion is to use a Sharpie to label the posts on the cap as you remove everything, set the new and old on a table and orient them identically, label the posts on the new one, and install it.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:38 AM
  #33842  
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Originally Posted by salad

Nothing hard about the cap at all. Two screws off, two screws on. Rotor is keyed, can't screw it up.

The only 'tricky' part I guess is remembering where all the wires go. My suggestion is to use a Sharpie to label the posts on the cap as you remove everything, set the new and old on a table and orient them identically, label the posts on the new one, and install it.
I unscrew the old cap, pivot it up, screw down the new cap, and move the wires one by one so I can't make a mistake.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:49 AM
  #33843  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep

Tap the muffler with a mallet. Only tap the front of the muffler, or the inlet side. Tap to the left and right of the inlet, back and forth. If its mega clamped on your going to have to cut it. I removed my stock muffler because the rocks had gotten to it. Ordered a $35 cherry bomb glasspack and it takes up a lot less room and sounds mean. Thats with a high flow cat however. I did the same muffler/cat combo on my friends xj except his doesnt have a tailpipe and is pretty darn loud. In a good way.
Wow I got it. All I did was pull the muffler down and it loosened it and it came right off.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:00 AM
  #33844  
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Originally Posted by salad
Nothing hard about the cap at all. Two screws off, two screws on. Rotor is keyed, can't screw it up.

The only 'tricky' part I guess is remembering where all the wires go. My suggestion is to use a Sharpie to label the posts on the cap as you remove everything, set the new and old on a table and orient them identically, label the posts on the new one, and install it.

Okay thanks! I thought you could mess up the rotor like that it had to go in just the right way. Thats a good idea Thanks again!
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:03 AM
  #33845  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I unscrew the old cap, pivot it up, screw down the new cap, and move the wires one by one so I can't make a mistake.
But I'm replacing the wires too so how would that work?

Would you replace the wires one at a time while on the cap? Same with plugs?

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:06 AM
  #33846  
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Originally Posted by 19964.0
But I'm replacing the wires too so how would that work?

Would you replace the wires one at a time while on the cap? Same with plugs?

Thanks
Ever played connect the dots?

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Old 07-29-2013, 10:28 AM
  #33847  
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Originally Posted by 19964.0

But I'm replacing the wires too so how would that work?

Would you replace the wires one at a time while on the cap? Same with plugs?

Thanks
Yes, I would. Just keep it simple.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:31 AM
  #33848  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Ever played connect the dots?

Is that the one from the wayne man book? (I think I spelled it wrong) I heard that that one had the screws wrong and so it had you doing it out of order?
Here's one that I was told was correct I don't know thats way I am asking also its my daily driver so I cant really do it wrong

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Old 07-29-2013, 10:42 AM
  #33849  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Yes, I would. Just keep it simple.
I'm gonna do it this way no need to worry about time I just need to do it right the first time no need to try and figure out which goes where just one at a time deal Thanks!
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:31 AM
  #33850  
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Well... On my 97 xj 3 in on 31s, I put new front brakes and calipers, rear brakes new fluid took rotors and a drum off my other jeep to put on it and we blead the brakes over and over and they still go to the floor. So my question is why do they still have little pressure and prettying no brakes?
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:40 AM
  #33851  
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Originally Posted by dwilly
Well... On my 97 xj 3 in on 31s, I put new front brakes and calipers, rear brakes new fluid took rotors and a drum off my other jeep to put on it and we blead the brakes over and over and they still go to the floor. So my question is why do they still have little pressure and prettying no brakes?
Did you adjust your rear brake shoes out? Pedal will never get hard, if they are loose.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dwilly
Well... On my 97 xj 3 in on 31s, I put new front brakes and calipers, rear brakes new fluid took rotors and a drum off my other jeep to put on it and we blead the brakes over and over and they still go to the floor. So my question is why do they still have little pressure and prettying no brakes?
Also, what procedure did you do to bleed the lines
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:37 PM
  #33853  
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Originally Posted by dwilly
Well... On my 97 xj 3 in on 31s, I put new front brakes and calipers, rear brakes new fluid took rotors and a drum off my other jeep to put on it and we blead the brakes over and over and they still go to the floor. So my question is why do they still have little pressure and prettying no brakes?
Do this:

Make sure breaks are adjusted properly.

Make sure there is no air in the lines.

If it still does not hold pressure and it barely did before I'd assume the master cylinder is bad.


I recently had this issue with mine and after replacing everything re bleeding and adjusting. I ended up swapping the master and it works way better than before. Much firmer pedal.
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:32 PM
  #33854  
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Installing bumper tomorrow. It ties in to the steering box on the driver side and the same layout of holes on the passenger side. So it adds 3 extra bolts per side. However my oem bumper is missing one bolt per side. Does anyone have the bolt size for the oem bumper brackets or should I buy more? Additionally, can I re use the steering box bolts or do I need new ones? Do I need the same size bolts for the passenger side as well? What size are the steering box bolts?

All for an 01 XJ. 10 points for whoever answers this one.
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:38 PM
  #33855  
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
Installing bumper tomorrow. It ties in to the steering box on the driver side and the same layout of holes on the passenger side. So it adds 3 extra bolts per side. However my oem bumper is missing one bolt per side. Does anyone have the bolt size for the oem bumper brackets or should I buy more? Additionally, can I re use the steering box bolts or do I need new ones? Do I need the same size bolts for the passenger side as well? What size are the steering box bolts?

All for an 01 XJ. 10 points for whoever answers this one.
Steering box: 7/16 4" 14 (3)
Passenger side: same, 3.5" long (3)
Grade 8 7/16 washers (9)
Grade 8 7/16 lock washer (3)
Grade 8 7/16 14 nut (3)

Bumper bolts are M10x1.5mm. Pick whatever length you want. The two on top of each other up front new washers and nuts. The third hole on each side threads into a weld but in the body.
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