Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
#3376
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,383
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
1 Post
Year: 1988 limited
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
Originally Posted by rocko
the other day I had to get on it pretty hard (in 2wd) and after doing so it seemed i had binding in my steering. Also, upon acceleration I felt/heard a thumping that appeared to be on the floor...
so far i've replaced all TRE's, drag link, steering stabilizer, steering box and after theft was attempted i had to replace the steering column as well.
any ideas?
the other day I had to get on it pretty hard (in 2wd) and after doing so it seemed i had binding in my steering. Also, upon acceleration I felt/heard a thumping that appeared to be on the floor...
so far i've replaced all TRE's, drag link, steering stabilizer, steering box and after theft was attempted i had to replace the steering column as well.
any ideas?
#3377
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
I am attempting to perform the closed to open cooling system on my '90 XJ and was planning on going with the 3 row from radiator barn, but I noticed the core size for the 3 row for the ('92 and later) model I need is nearly an inch shorter in height than the '90 specifications--(31 X 11-1/4 X 1-13/16) for the '90 compared with (31 X 10-5/16 X 1-13/16) for the '92.
The comparison of specs for every other radiator on popular auto sites between the '90 and the '92 radiator shows no such difference, but don't offer the 3-row that I want. Anybody know why, or if it doesn't matter somehow regarding making the swap? Any suggestions for other post-1991 3-row radiators to make the common closed to open cooling swap for my 90 XJ? Thanks very much and any help is greatly appreciated. I'm really in a hurry to get it in for a long trip I hope to make soon with the new system.
The comparison of specs for every other radiator on popular auto sites between the '90 and the '92 radiator shows no such difference, but don't offer the 3-row that I want. Anybody know why, or if it doesn't matter somehow regarding making the swap? Any suggestions for other post-1991 3-row radiators to make the common closed to open cooling swap for my 90 XJ? Thanks very much and any help is greatly appreciated. I'm really in a hurry to get it in for a long trip I hope to make soon with the new system.
You need to make sure the size is the same though, especially the height.
#3378
A two-row radiator is more than sufficient for the cooling system of the 4.0L engine. A three row will actually be less efficient in our configuration because the cooling fan is not powerful enough to move enough air though the fins with the additional row to cool the system as well as with a two or one row radiator.
You need to make sure the size is the same though, especially the height.
You need to make sure the size is the same though, especially the height.
#3380
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
Originally Posted by TruckD
I want to be sure that the gauge in my dash isn't lying to me, so how do i use one?
#3381
Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Independence, MO
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
#3382
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Copperas Cove, Tx
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: High output 4.0L
Need a little help
My dad just recently returned my 1994 Jeep Cherokee to me, he has had it for the past 5 years and has had very few problems with it. When I picked it up from my dad in Oregon I noticed as he pointed out that the engine or something very near it makes a loud metallic knocking/grinding noise when it is started cold, the noise usually goes away one the Jeep has warmed up (about 15 minutes after starting it) and we can not figure out where the noise is coming from or how to fix it. After driving it from Oregon to Texas this is the only issue, along with a loose radiator overfill hose. Any suggestions? or has anyone dealt with this before?
My dad did not give me the service manual and I have not run out and bought one as I have only had the car for weeks. I would appreciate any help.
My dad did not give me the service manual and I have not run out and bought one as I have only had the car for weeks. I would appreciate any help.
Last edited by Darsjeep94; 02-22-2011 at 06:27 PM.
#3383
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lockport,ny
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
I had a question that i need help with, just got a steering stabilizer for my 4.5 lift and i have a part i know where it is supposed to go but it dont fit. this is the part one end is too thick and the other is too short, what do i do
#3384
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bedford, Pa
Posts: 627
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by rocko
Hmm, any way of determining if this is indeed my issue?
#3386
Hey guys maybe you can help me out ,... i have a 98 grand cherokee and dont do much offroad at all but LOVE the lift look ,... right now my suspensions are stock what do i actually need to lift it ? and how much will it cost about ? how much should i lift it ? do i even have to buy somthing or the mechanic can crank it up ,.. i have no clue honestly thanks for the help ,
#3387
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Posts: 764
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
is there anything that can be done to make a bad master cylinder work again temporarily? like for maybe a day, 2 25 minute trips? i need my ride for work until tomorrow, and no idea how to do it without brakes
#3388
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: havelock, nc
Posts: 921
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Hey was wondering if anyone has converted an old style manual Windows and locks to. Newer body styled power window n locks....the door panels that is...thanks
#3390
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I think you should stick with 93xjay's advice and steer clear of the shackle and spacer route. A buddy of mine went that way with his cherokee and eventually what happend was the shackle "beat the hell out of his add a leaf" and the rear end sagged. A lot! IMO you should go with a long arm kit if you want to go high and think about getting a slip yoke eliminator and new trackbar. If you are doing this yourself, its a lot of work. Think about it before you go off any start buying parts. Or else you could be doing this