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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Would y'all suggest getting greasable sway bar bushings or non greasable? My front ones are way shot from my recently fixed death wobble and it's my dd so I can't just get rid of the front sway bar.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If they come non-greasable from the factory it can't hurt to go with non-greasable replacements.
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Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Location: MA
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I rebuilt the double cardan in my rear DS recently (its a front DS) because one the u joint closest to the Tcase was totally destroyed (no needles remained in two of the caps..). Decided to do both the u joints in the dbl cardan as well as to rebuild the centering ball while I had it apart.
My paint pen mark on the centering ball was lost during cleaning, or I forgot to make it so I wasn't able to ensure the original orientation when reassembling. Should I have the DS balanced? Its $65 to have it done at the one place around here. I was thinking I might as well replace the u joint at the rear diff while I'm at it before I shell out $65 for the DS to be balanced.
I would assume that DS balancing is good not just to reduce vibration but to avoid undue wear on all the components mated to the driveshaft (t-case, the u joints, centering ball etc.)
Thanks guys
My paint pen mark on the centering ball was lost during cleaning, or I forgot to make it so I wasn't able to ensure the original orientation when reassembling. Should I have the DS balanced? Its $65 to have it done at the one place around here. I was thinking I might as well replace the u joint at the rear diff while I'm at it before I shell out $65 for the DS to be balanced.
I would assume that DS balancing is good not just to reduce vibration but to avoid undue wear on all the components mated to the driveshaft (t-case, the u joints, centering ball etc.)
Thanks guys
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
that guy will always give the simple answer of no loll. happy you got your answer though
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Happened for the second time yesterday, so I guess it's time I look into this.
A couple weeks ago, I noticed the GEN light was on when I was driving around, so when I arrived at my place, I shut the engine and when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't even crank. So I figured I might have an issue with my battery, but I disconnected the battery, connected it after a couple minutes and magic, the jeep started without any issues and the light didn't come back.
Basically I thought nothing of it until it happened again yesterday, so before I stay stuck somewhere and the disconnect/connect trick doesn't work, I figured I should find what the problem could be.
Any idea? Thanks!
A couple weeks ago, I noticed the GEN light was on when I was driving around, so when I arrived at my place, I shut the engine and when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't even crank. So I figured I might have an issue with my battery, but I disconnected the battery, connected it after a couple minutes and magic, the jeep started without any issues and the light didn't come back.
Basically I thought nothing of it until it happened again yesterday, so before I stay stuck somewhere and the disconnect/connect trick doesn't work, I figured I should find what the problem could be.
Any idea? Thanks!
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The guy I got my bumper from also tossed me a set of brand new rotors and pads from an 89-96 XJ, well it's time to do brakes on my 99 and would like to know if they'll work for me, or if I need to buy another set...
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Difference is that the composite rotors have a stamped steel bit that mounts them to the hub. This results in I think 1/4" difference in stud length. In practice you change out the hubs (Not 100% sure if changing the studs is practical). The hubs may be different thicknesses
Last edited by salad; 08-13-2013 at 11:23 AM.