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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Junior Member
Depends on if they're full-cast or composite rotors. If they match your current ones you'll be fine.
Difference is that the composite rotors have a stamped steel bit that mounts them to the hub. This results in I think 1/4" difference in stud length. In practice you change out the hubs (Not 100% sure if changing the studs is practical). The hubs may be different thicknesses
Difference is that the composite rotors have a stamped steel bit that mounts them to the hub. This results in I think 1/4" difference in stud length. In practice you change out the hubs (Not 100% sure if changing the studs is practical). The hubs may be different thicknesses
Since you already have rotors pull the old one off and lay it flat beside the other one and measure the hat height. If they're the same... go for it.
I'm betting that they will be different though.
Help!
So I got done replacing the motor on 2001 Cherokee got it all put pack together, and it fired right up. After running it at about 2500 rpms for 15 minutes i let it drop back down to idle. While idling i notice a pretty good tick. From the what i know and have been told is that it seems to be a sticky lifter. Other than tick after a little while of running i reved it up again to see if the ticking stopped when at higher rpms and listening more carefully i noticed it was still the and just speeding up with the revs. This time when i brought it back down to idle the engine began shaking a little and had an occasional pop. Also my cat began to glow red hot. I'm pretty sure that means that fuel is just dumping down the exhaust. I'm still pretty sure its a lifter. So right now i have things taken apart so that i can pull the head. I have the valve cover off but i'm kind of unsure of a good method to figure out which lifter is bad. i don't have a diagnostics machine to read the code to maybe narrow down the cylinder. Any ideas???
I have never done any engine work before and a friend of mine told me to do it, because that motor had been sitting for so long and it would apply the oil pressure to the parts that may have been stuck or corroded from sitting under pressure. Like i said im not too knowledgeable in this area.
Junior Member
I have never done any engine work before and a friend of mine told me to do it, because that motor had been sitting for so long and it would apply the oil pressure to the parts that may have been stuck or corroded from sitting under pressure. Like i said im not too knowledgeable in this area.
Either way, pull the valve cover off and look for bent push rods or broken valve springs.
Don't listen to your friend anymore.
I certainly will not. None of the valve springs seem to be broken. And none of the push rods are noticeable bent but ill try rolling them on a good flat surface just to be sure.
Junior Member
How many miles are on the engine? Might not be a bad idea to have the head rebuilt and pull all the lifters for inspection.
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: The 219
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
For the bottom bolts? Don't bother, they're actually splined (not sure if this is the correct term) like wheel studs. Remove the nut and pound or press em out.
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Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
I would take the valve cover off and rotate engine by hand and measure every valve's lift to ensure it goes up and down the same amount with spring pressure and all. Of course this is done with a special tool but often when a cam lobe is worn out its easy to see that one valve is not oppening.
Of course this is almost worse case senario. If cam lobe is damaged, you will see it on the lifter anyway but at least you don't have to take the head off to figure that one out. If they valve open and close the same amount, then I would look at bent rod/rocker or a stuck lifter.
Good luck
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Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7