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Old 08-15-2013, 04:46 AM
  #34516  
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Originally Posted by Customizer1000

It will happen, aren't you in Ohio?
Me no, nyc
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:32 AM
  #34517  
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I have a question pertaining to my 96 sport with the 5 speed Trans. For the last few days I have noticed that the clutch seemed to engage a bit lower than it usually did. Today, it drove pretty much as usual to work, but when I got to work and tried to park it took me multiple tries to get into reverse, with grinding each time. I did finally get it in, but not easily. After that I tried first gear and it was a bit harder to get in than usual. It will go into all gears just fine once I turn it off though. I'm thinking I may need a clutch, but I was wondering what else would be worth checking before I go that far. Maybe check the fluid of bleed the clutch? Any help would be great, just not sure if anyone has had similar issues and I can't do extensive searching on my phone because I'm at work.
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:44 AM
  #34518  
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Anyone swap clusters from 84-86 into a Renix XJ/MJ?
I'm selling two 86 XJ clusters on here and ComancheClub.
There has been a bit of discussion if it would work or not.
I've never heard of someone swapping between "generations".
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:14 PM
  #34519  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Does it not look like this? It should.



Here's a better diagram to go with the key above.

it does not, http://www.google.com/images?=client...d=0CAsQsAQ#i=5
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:15 PM
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guess its a 95 panel
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Old 08-15-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchlikesbikes
I have a question pertaining to my 96 sport with the 5 speed Trans. For the last few days I have noticed that the clutch seemed to engage a bit lower than it usually did. Today, it drove pretty much as usual to work, but when I got to work and tried to park it took me multiple tries to get into reverse, with grinding each time. I did finally get it in, but not easily. After that I tried first gear and it was a bit harder to get in than usual. It will go into all gears just fine once I turn it off though. I'm thinking I may need a clutch, but I was wondering what else would be worth checking before I go that far. Maybe check the fluid of bleed the clutch? Any help would be great, just not sure if anyone has had similar issues and I can't do extensive searching on my phone because I'm at work.
The internal release bearing is weak on jeeps and when it starts loosing fluid or sucking air it's just a question of time to total failure. I would bleed it best I can then closely monitor clutch fluid levels. I would also start looking for a new one. Amazon.com has good prices.
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Old 08-15-2013, 01:40 PM
  #34522  
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Originally Posted by Xj88
Its the easiest thing you could do.
Remove cotter pins (2)
Remove nuts (2)
Hammer tapered ends out.
Put new rod/ends on
Tighten nuts
Insert cotter pins
yeah i think i can handle that, thanks alot!
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:44 PM
  #34523  
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Ok so after weeks of searching for a vacuum leak to no avail I decided to change out all the vacuum lines and so I did, but still have a high idle. so next I changed the TPS and although I have better response and have notice better acceleration and overall driving, I still have a high idle. So then next I decided to check all the bolts on the manifold and they where all tight, it cant be the gasket cause it was replaced last week and the manifold was completely checked for any cracks and everything was good. So whats next, I decided to get some starter fluid and started to re spray all the vacuum lines and fittings and all around the manifold to no avail. Lastly I wanted to check the map sensor, so I went ahead and put a new one on and guess what nothing still high idle....Im loosing my patience please does anyone know or have any ideas.????
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:51 PM
  #34524  
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O and before people say anything I took my entire throttle body apart and cleaned everything inside and out. I have a hesco throttle body and I notice I had a fitting on the side but it was caped off it seemed to be somekind of vacuum fitting but there was no leek there
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Prjo734
Ok so after weeks of searching for a vacuum leak to no avail I decided to change out all the vacuum lines and so I did, but still have a high idle. so next I changed the TPS and although I have better response and have notice better acceleration and overall driving, I still have a high idle. So then next I decided to check all the bolts on the manifold and they where all tight, it cant be the gasket cause it was replaced last week and the manifold was completely checked for any cracks and everything was good. So whats next, I decided to get some starter fluid and started to re spray all the vacuum lines and fittings and all around the manifold to no avail. Lastly I wanted to check the map sensor, so I went ahead and put a new one on and guess what nothing still high idle....Im loosing my patience please does anyone know or have any ideas.????
Did you clean your IAC? Its you IDLE AIR CONTROL to the left of the tps iirc.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:58 PM
  #34526  
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Is the throttle butterfly partly open? It's not supposed to be.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:59 PM
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yes I took the throttle body completely apart took the IAC out and cleaned it and inside the housing .
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:02 PM
  #34528  
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And yes I also cleared and reset the computer by touching the positive to negative battery terminal then putting the key in run and turning the lights on and off 3 times, turning the key to off then starting her up. I did this after replacing the sensors.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:03 PM
  #34529  
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no I checked to make sure that the throttle body face plate closes completely and it does no issues there.
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:07 PM
  #34530  
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Originally Posted by Prjo734
no I checked to make sure that the throttle body face plate closes completely and it does no issues there.
Did you spray the base of the throttle body with soap water??
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