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Old 08-30-2013, 10:16 AM
  #34996  
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Originally Posted by lukepat
can someone give me a rundown of how to do a fluid change on an ax15? my jeeps a 97. how much fluid should i buy? i was thinking redline mt-90 if i have enough money, or pennzoil syncromesh
10w30. Buy 4 qts. Fill it till it starts to drain out of fill plug. About 3.5qts.

Chrysler switched to 10/30 because it is getting harder and harder to find gl-3/4 gear oil. Gl-5 has to much sulphur and kills it. You could add a little synchromesh, but not needed. I just changed mine with high mileage syn. and it shifts better than it ever did.

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Old 08-30-2013, 10:20 AM
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Default 96 xj no power at all

I have a 96 stick xj that has no power at all. No dome light, no radio, no crank, nothing. The battery is less than a month old. Had both the battery and alternator tested and they checked out good. I checked the fuses and relays and they looked good too. Could it be the computer? Any help is appreciated.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jm96
I have a 96 stick xj that has no power at all. No dome light, no radio, no crank, nothing. The battery is less than a month old. Had both the battery and alternator tested and they checked out good. I checked the fuses and relays and they looked good too. Could it be the computer? Any help is appreciated.
Get a multimeter and test all your battery cables for continuity.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:56 AM
  #34999  
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0
IPF is a pretty popular company. Don't know why ups can't find anything.
I can find any of the IPF SuperRally 950Drs that I have... I am needing one replacement bulb.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:51 AM
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would doing the transfer case be the same? I know I gotta use Dexron III there, but same idea?
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0

10w30. Buy 4 qts. Fill it till it starts to drain out of fill plug. About 3.5qts.

Chrysler switched to 10/30 because it is getting harder and harder to find gl-3/4 gear oil. Gl-5 has to much sulphur and kills it. You could add a little synchromesh, but not needed. I just changed mine with high mileage syn. and it shifts better than it ever did.
No... Chrysler stopped stocking 75w90 GL3/4 because they don't have any transmissions that require it under warranty and didn't want to stock it anymore. It has nothing to do with what is best for the transmission. Same reason they superceded the part number for AW4 lubricant with ATF+4. In both cases the manufacturer has issued no such recommendation.

Redline MT-90 is the best stuff in these gear boxes.

Anyway this guy has asked that question and gotten answers about 4 or 5 times now. I don't know what his deal is.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lukepat
would doing the transfer case be the same? I know I gotta use Dexron III there, but same idea?
Any ATF for the NP231
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by salad

No... Chrysler stopped stocking 75w90 GL3/4 because they don't have any transmissions that require it under warranty and didn't want to stock it anymore. It has nothing to do with what is best for the transmission. Same reason they superceded the part number for AW4 lubricant with ATF+4. In both cases the manufacturer has issued no such recommendation.

Redline MT-90 is the best stuff in these gear boxes.

Anyway this guy has asked that question and gotten answers about 4 or 5 times now. I don't know what his deal is.
Ya, you are right. But a lot of manuals still say gl/5, and that is a no no. Stuff kills yellow metals.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
No... Chrysler stopped stocking 75w90 GL3/4 because they don't have any transmissions that require it under warranty and didn't want to stock it anymore. It has nothing to do with what is best for the transmission. Same reason they superceded the part number for AW4 lubricant with ATF+4. In both cases the manufacturer has issued no such recommendation.

Redline MT-90 is the best stuff in these gear boxes.

Anyway this guy has asked that question and gotten answers about 4 or 5 times now. I don't know what his deal is.
i only asked a few times cause i could never find the answer again lol

ps, only asked twice
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:52 PM
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Default air conditioning

Originally Posted by salad
This is typical of a vacuum leak. The HVAC direction door is operated by vaccum from the engine, when you stomp the pedal the vacuum that your engine is pulling goes way down (has a lot to do with that giant hole you opened in the throttle body). The factory installed a vacuum reservoir to help with this. It is a black ball that lives inside your front bumper. You'll see it if you take the passenger side end cap off. It's common for these to crack or have a problem with the line that feeds them.
I was told by the service manager at our local Stealership that some of the the Cherokee's Air conditioning systems has a device built in to it that acts similar to the pass master system. it shuts off the compressor during acceleration to allow passing without the ac dragging down the power ( its also supposed to save gas). And That over time the relay that controls this action gets weaker and the cutting out gets more and more pronounced with even the slightest acceleration. I can tell you that this really sucks out here in east Tn mountains where the acceleration is like a yo-yo going up and down all these hills. even when using the cruise.
Like you I need to find some one who knows how to by pass this system
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by etihwla
I was told by the service manager at our local Stealership that some of the the Cherokee's Air conditioning systems has a device built in to it that acts similar to the pass master system. it shuts off the compressor during acceleration to allow passing without the ac dragging down the power ( its also supposed to save gas). And That over time the relay that controls this action gets weaker and the cutting out gets more and more pronounced with even the slightest acceleration. I can tell you that this really sucks out here in east Tn mountains where the acceleration is like a yo-yo going up and down all these hills. even when using the cruise.
Like you I need to find some one who knows how to by pass this system
He's full of it.

Vac leak.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2

He's full of it.

Vac leak.
Beat me to it!

Check all your check valves in the engine bay, vacuum lines, and bottle.
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalxJ4.0
Ya, you are right. But a lot of manuals still say gl/5, and that is a no no. Stuff kills yellow metals.
Yeah major TSB error there.

Originally Posted by etihwla
I was told by the service manager at our local Stealership that some of the the Cherokee's Air conditioning systems has a device built in to it that acts similar to the pass master system. it shuts off the compressor during acceleration to allow passing without the ac dragging down the power ( its also supposed to save gas). And That over time the relay that controls this action gets weaker and the cutting out gets more and more pronounced with even the slightest acceleration. I can tell you that this really sucks out here in east Tn mountains where the acceleration is like a yo-yo going up and down all these hills. even when using the cruise.
Like you I need to find some one who knows how to by pass this system
Horse pucky. The XJ's HVAC system uses refrigerant pressure to control the compressor and vacuum to move the flappy doors.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:51 PM
  #35009  
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Where does everyone mount their transmission temp gauge? Was going to go in the factory clock spot but there are components in the bezel piece so that won't work.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:21 PM
  #35010  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Where does everyone mount their transmission temp gauge? Was going to go in the factory clock spot but there are components in the bezel piece so that won't work.
I've seen people put it in front of the 4wd shifter. Nice and out of the way.
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