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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Are the relocation brackets too narrow (narrower than stock) or the shackles too wide?
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here:
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdZFfXMPhP0
I got a Thrush welded like a week ago today. I'm loving it. Sounds great, no drone. It's only even noticeable when I'm on the gas a decent bit or idling. In between I don't really hear a difference. I love it.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Canton, GA
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
They fit the terraflex shackles fine but i don't want to use that long of extended shackles and stock shackles don't work on the RC relocators. I would get.MJ ones if i knew they work properly
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
IRO has some I believe. And they definitely have .75" shackles.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
CF Veteran
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Im gonna do the RE boomerang 1" ones. Ppl have done this setup. Was trying to avoid making the phone calls and see if someone ever had the same issue but thanks i found it finally on Google
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
hello all, so heres what i have. i just finished a motor swap today from a 99 w/ax15 to a 99 w/aw4. both ran before swap, although motor i swapped in hadn't been started and a while. problem is, it's not starting now after the swap. sounds like it wants to but can't. fuel pump is audible. all wires plugged in. did some research, sounded like CPS issue so i tried the other one i had but nothing changed. gauges appeared normal with CPS plugged or unplugged(a symptom i read about.)
so now i'm thinking i need to align the 1st piston to TDC and maybe i'll be all set. i'll be using this write up most likely-
sorry for long post, but does it sound like i am heading in the right direction? anything else to try if that doesn't work?
so now i'm thinking i need to align the 1st piston to TDC and maybe i'll be all set. i'll be using this write up most likely-
They are not adjustable, but if installed improperly the engine will run but very poorly.
Remove the #1 Spark Plug
Remove the Dist.Cap
Remove the distributor.
Bring the #1 piston up to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke. Stuff your finger in the spark plug hole while someone bumps the starter. When yo feel air blowing by your finger STOP.
Use a 19mm socket and turn the harmonic balancer bolt clockwise (only) while keeping an eye on the timing marks on the timing chain cover.
Once the #1 piston is at TDC, re-install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the 5 O'clock position when the distributor is fully seated.
A word of caution.
Make sure that you rotate the oilpump shaft with a long screwdiver so that it lines up properly with the distributor. Failure to do so will prevent the distributor from fully seating.
Reinstall the cap
Reinstall the sparkplug
Double check the plugwires to make sure you have the correct sequence.
Fire it up.
Remove the #1 Spark Plug
Remove the Dist.Cap
Remove the distributor.
Bring the #1 piston up to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke. Stuff your finger in the spark plug hole while someone bumps the starter. When yo feel air blowing by your finger STOP.
Use a 19mm socket and turn the harmonic balancer bolt clockwise (only) while keeping an eye on the timing marks on the timing chain cover.
Once the #1 piston is at TDC, re-install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the 5 O'clock position when the distributor is fully seated.
A word of caution.
Make sure that you rotate the oilpump shaft with a long screwdiver so that it lines up properly with the distributor. Failure to do so will prevent the distributor from fully seating.
Reinstall the cap
Reinstall the sparkplug
Double check the plugwires to make sure you have the correct sequence.
Fire it up.
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
hello all, so heres what i have. i just finished a motor swap today from a 99 w/ax15 to a 99 w/aw4. both ran before swap, although motor i swapped in hadn't been started and a while. problem is, it's not starting now after the swap. sounds like it wants to but can't. fuel pump is audible. all wires plugged in. did some research, sounded like CPS issue so i tried the other one i had but nothing changed. gauges appeared normal with CPS plugged or unplugged(a symptom i read about.)
so now i'm thinking i need to align the 1st piston to TDC and maybe i'll be all set. i'll be using this write up most likely-
sorry for long post, but does it sound like i am heading in the right direction? anything else to try if that doesn't work?
so now i'm thinking i need to align the 1st piston to TDC and maybe i'll be all set. i'll be using this write up most likely-
sorry for long post, but does it sound like i am heading in the right direction? anything else to try if that doesn't work?
Adjusting the distributor is certainly the right line of thought, have you made sure you actually have spark and fuel in the first place?