salad

SKIM could've been disabled, maybe there's a key taped inside the column! Perhaps your XJ doesn't actually have a SKIM at all and the key you have is was cut from the only ones the dealer had lying around. I'd definitely start by popping off the cover on the steering column and looking for the gizmo.

Ah, well then, forget the fuse. If all of the other speeds died at the same time I'd suspect the connector for the blower motor resistor. It lives above the passenger's feet. Your resistor may be dead anyway, though, but it's a pretty cheap fix.

The oil pressure sending units are very unreliable, as well as their wiring. The sensor lives down by the oil filter on the side of the block. It's a good idea to verify the pressure with a mechanical test gauge before throwing any parts at it. That said, what kind of oil and filter are you running? Any new noises from the engine?

HarlemJeep

I cant remember at the top of my head since I forgot my paperwork at the shop. He said its like 9 at idle and 28 at 1800 rpm. He said not to worry to much, and he will re-read it on monday or tuesday when I do my oil change. He did suggest replacing my oil sending unit, but said its not too necessary. Right now I have a mopar filter with conventional 10-40, but I am about to do an oil change and put on a wix filter and use high millage 10-40.

I live in an apartment at the moment so doing it myself is not an option. Wish I could though. Out of curiosity, could I do first like a head rebuild then a month later the oil pump replacement, or vise versa, or do I have to do both at the same time in order to make sure that everything goes well with no problems?

salad

Good stuff. You're alright with the 10W40 and Mopar filter. WIX and a higher zinc oil is a good choice. Do yourself a favor and don't keep on the 10W40 in winter, that stuff is way too thick when it's cold. 5W30 or 5W40 is choice. Heated garage of course gets around that problem.

Minimum pressure for a healthy 4.0L is 13 PSI at idle.

Remind me why you're replacing the oil pump?

dwilly

I'm not sure of the oil type it was changed right before I bought it, it's a Fram filter. No new noises. Thanx for any info too

cruiser54

If it were my Jeep, I would ditch that notorious piece of crap Orange Can Of Death Fram filter and replace it with a Wix or Napa Gold before exploring any other avenues.

HarlemJeep

To be honest not sure why, it seems like everybody always mentions it in a low oil pressure thread as I have noticed while doing research. If I am starting to lose oil pressure, and its verified with a mechanical gauge, what is commonly the problem that I need to fix?

dwilly

So I take it no one really likes Fram? While we're at it wat kind of oil should I run?

Jumba

Don't want to hijack but I have a question. Just bought my 2000 XJ 2 door. It takes too long to start. As in, it cranks over too many times. I generally crank it a few, turn it off, and then crank it a few more and it pops off. Runs skectchy for about 30 seconds and then runs like a dream. Any ideas? =/
I did some reasearching, but didn't come across my exact problem. One of my friends thinks it has to do with the fuel pump/sending unit. Thanks for any help!

cranesrule

This x1000

odgreen

The later xjs have an issue with the check valve in the fuel pump. Lets the fuel pressure bleed off. Hence why it runs like crap for a bit.

NewKindOfClown

The bad check valve shouldn't cause it to run poorly. It just causes excessive crank times. One way around it is to turn the key to On a couple times before starting the Jeep.
This primes the system more than once and fills the lines with fuel.

salad

Steady decline in oil pressure, assuming it's not the fault of some idiot adding Lucas or using a FRAM filter that's collapsed inside, is typically bearing damage and requires a rebuild to correct. If the engine isn't making any noise and still has power though you should be able to just keep driving it. Depends on your plans for the vehicle. Are you still driving around with a busted head (gasket)?? Because that's the #1 way to kill it

No. They're absolute ****.

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/

We recommend WIX all day long. Good price and reliable. NAPA has them branded as NAPA Gold

Actual oil doesn't really matter. Running oil and changing it is good. A lot of us love Shell Rotella, use a weight appropriate for your climate.

Da long starts = czech valve, running like dump is usually heat soak

chuck1225

What do you think about K&N? From that video, it looks to be the best (that they covered). I've got one on the jeep right now since I had a $10 gift card. Normally, though, I use Pur-o-lator filters.

salad

No doubt that they are top notch. However they're a Mobil 1 filter with a $2 to $8 nut just welded on the top. The filters are good for running long OCIs but 4.0Ls are not really conducive to that. Gasoline can't be filtered out lol.

cweed24

Im thinking about putting wj front calipers on my 99 xj , I read somewhere that they were swapable , do I have to do anything else to make them work ?