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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Wow this thread does move fast. Thanks for the relply Salad. Yes my key looks like that. I have installed aftermarket remote starts on previous vehicles i have had that require a key to be placed in a "lock" box in order for the remote start to work due to the key chip. That was why I thought it may have an aftermarket remote start. Without something like this do you have any idea why the vehicle would start with the key over 20 feet away?
Thanks
Eric
Thanks
Eric
The oil pressure sending units are very unreliable, as well as their wiring. The sensor lives down by the oil filter on the side of the block. It's a good idea to verify the pressure with a mechanical test gauge before throwing any parts at it. That said, what kind of oil and filter are you running? Any new noises from the engine?
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New York, NY
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
What does "oil pressure not as it should be" mean? There are a lot of factors that can affect oil pressure, and a lot of different interpretations of it. An instant snapshot is almost meaningless. Data over time is important to determine if coolant is destroying your bearings.
I can't tell you about average cost, but if you have the tools, I'd do it yourself. Imho, the worst thing you can do is sell the jeep. After all, if you figure you trade it in on another vehicle and have to pony up two or three grand extra on top of your trade in value.. A lot can be fixed for 2-3 k. And, since you'd (probably) be buying used, you probably won't get any kind of a warranty, and so if something goes wrong with the new car in a week, you're back where you started, and you've lost another 3 k. Fix it, and know that you won't have to worry about it again for years to come.
Last edited by HarlemJeep; 10-18-2013 at 11:39 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I cant remember at the top of my head since I forgot my paperwork at the shop. He said its like 9 at idle and 28 at 1800 rpm. He said not to worry to much, and he will re-read it on monday or tuesday when I do my oil change. He did suggest replacing my oil sending unit, but said its not too necessary. Right now I have a mopar filter with conventional 10-40, but I am about to do an oil change and put on a wix filter and use high millage 10-40.
I live in an apartment at the moment so doing it myself is not an option. Wish I could though. Out of curiosity, could I do first like a head rebuild then a month later the oil pump replacement, or vise versa, or do I have to do both at the same time in order to make sure that everything goes well with no problems?
Remind me why you're replacing the oil pump?
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: hambleton, wv
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
SKIM could've been disabled, maybe there's a key taped inside the column! Perhaps your XJ doesn't actually have a SKIM at all and the key you have is was cut from the only ones the dealer had lying around. I'd definitely start by popping off the cover on the steering column and looking for the gizmo.
Ah, well then, forget the fuse. If all of the other speeds died at the same time I'd suspect the connector for the blower motor resistor. It lives above the passenger's feet. Your resistor may be dead anyway, though, but it's a pretty cheap fix.
The oil pressure sending units are very unreliable, as well as their wiring. The sensor lives down by the oil filter on the side of the block. It's a good idea to verify the pressure with a mechanical test gauge before throwing any parts at it. That said, what kind of oil and filter are you running? Any new noises from the engine?
Ah, well then, forget the fuse. If all of the other speeds died at the same time I'd suspect the connector for the blower motor resistor. It lives above the passenger's feet. Your resistor may be dead anyway, though, but it's a pretty cheap fix.
The oil pressure sending units are very unreliable, as well as their wiring. The sensor lives down by the oil filter on the side of the block. It's a good idea to verify the pressure with a mechanical test gauge before throwing any parts at it. That said, what kind of oil and filter are you running? Any new noises from the engine?
I'm not sure of the oil type it was changed right before I bought it, it's a Fram filter. No new noises. Thanx for any info too
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
If it were my Jeep, I would ditch that notorious piece of crap Orange Can Of Death Fram filter and replace it with a Wix or Napa Gold before exploring any other avenues.
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New York, NY
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
To be honest not sure why, it seems like everybody always mentions it in a low oil pressure thread as I have noticed while doing research. If I am starting to lose oil pressure, and its verified with a mechanical gauge, what is commonly the problem that I need to fix?
Member
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
Don't want to hijack but I have a question. Just bought my 2000 XJ 2 door. It takes too long to start. As in, it cranks over too many times. I generally crank it a few, turn it off, and then crank it a few more and it pops off. Runs skectchy for about 30 seconds and then runs like a dream. Any ideas? =/
I did some reasearching, but didn't come across my exact problem. One of my friends thinks it has to do with the fuel pump/sending unit. Thanks for any help!
I did some reasearching, but didn't come across my exact problem. One of my friends thinks it has to do with the fuel pump/sending unit. Thanks for any help!
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Central Arkansas
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: some small town oregon
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Don't want to hijack but I have a question. Just bought my 2000 XJ 2 door. It takes too long to start. As in, it cranks over too many times. I generally crank it a few, turn it off, and then crank it a few more and it pops off. Runs skectchy for about 30 seconds and then runs like a dream. Any ideas? =/
I did some reasearching, but didn't come across my exact problem. One of my friends thinks it has to do with the fuel pump/sending unit. Thanks for any help!
I did some reasearching, but didn't come across my exact problem. One of my friends thinks it has to do with the fuel pump/sending unit. Thanks for any help!
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
This primes the system more than once and fills the lines with fuel.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
To be honest not sure why, it seems like everybody always mentions it in a low oil pressure thread as I have noticed while doing research. If I am starting to lose oil pressure, and its verified with a mechanical gauge, what is commonly the problem that I need to fix?
We recommend WIX all day long. Good price and reliable. NAPA has them branded as NAPA Gold
Actual oil doesn't really matter. Running oil and changing it is good. A lot of us love Shell Rotella, use a weight appropriate for your climate.
Da long starts = czech valve, running like dump is usually heat soak
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North West Ohio
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter in-line six
What do you think about K&N? From that video, it looks to be the best (that they covered). I've got one on the jeep right now since I had a $10 gift card. Normally, though, I use Pur-o-lator filters.
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
No doubt that they are top notch. However they're a Mobil 1 filter with a $2 to $8 nut just welded on the top. The filters are good for running long OCIs but 4.0Ls are not really conducive to that. Gasoline can't be filtered out lol.
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: western mass
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Im thinking about putting wj front calipers on my 99 xj , I read somewhere that they were swapable , do I have to do anything else to make them work ?