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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
on that note.. another control arm question: ~3.5" lift, is it worth it to get adj. UCA's and fixed lowers, or just get the lowers and dont worry about it?
CF Veteran
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Location: salem, OR
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yup, disconnected just the 1st cylinder spark plug wire, accidentally tried to start it with it disconnected, turned the jeep off then plugged the wire back in. Tried to turn the jeep back on and all it's doing now is cranking and cranking. No firing what's so ever, and this is coming from a engine that would fire after just one crank, new rotor, cap, wires, battery, alternator, I'm completely baffled as to why it shouldn't have just started after re-connecting the wire..
CF Veteran
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah, the uppers do more for realigning axle anyways right? thoughts on these sob's
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151010071607
ive got it down to 600 bucks for parts to get the front up a bit (bb now, gir..) seems like a lot, but adj. uppers, fixed lowers, re track bar and re springs. id STILL need new shocks, too.. =/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151010071607
ive got it down to 600 bucks for parts to get the front up a bit (bb now, gir..) seems like a lot, but adj. uppers, fixed lowers, re track bar and re springs. id STILL need new shocks, too.. =/
Last edited by VTJeep; 10-22-2013 at 11:24 AM.
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Manahawkin New Jersey
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm on 2" lift and my control arm bushings are beat so I I figured why not I got fixed lowers now and in a few more days I have fixed uppers. I figure anythings better than stock
CF Veteran
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I recommend IRO.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Oregon
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
OK. There is plenty on this site about "death wobble", what about "death rock"?
1993, 4L, 5spd, 4dr, all stock. I purchased this rig a couple of months ago and replaced all four ball joints, both front axle u-joints, four shocks, front sway bar bushings (poly) and had it aligned. The 4x4 place that aligned it did not find any worn parts/bushings/etc in the front end at that time.
I headed for Death Valley (800m OW) and only got about as far as SAC when the rig started rocking side to side. Started about 60mph and went away, mostly, at about 68mph. Drove straight and true, no crabbing, no wandering, no following ruts in the great state of CA's freeways.
I stopped at a rest stop and looked underneath the front end only to find that both front sway bar bushings were as worn as the ones I replaced less than 600 miles previously. I eventually ended up crossing a couple of ratchet straps hooked to the sway bar outside the "frame" rails and that helped some, but not entirely.
I guess my questions would be:
"Any idea what would cause a pair of brand new bushings to wear out in less that 1k miles?"
"Any idea what would cause the vehicle to rock as it does?"
Only once, on my 2300 mile journey, did I feel that I could possibly lose control of the vehicle and had to slow down.
(This is more of a request for after the fact information as my plans are to instal a complete aftermarket lift system within the next couple of months. But, I still need to drive this vehicle every day until that happens.)
TNX for any/all help with this!
1993, 4L, 5spd, 4dr, all stock. I purchased this rig a couple of months ago and replaced all four ball joints, both front axle u-joints, four shocks, front sway bar bushings (poly) and had it aligned. The 4x4 place that aligned it did not find any worn parts/bushings/etc in the front end at that time.
I headed for Death Valley (800m OW) and only got about as far as SAC when the rig started rocking side to side. Started about 60mph and went away, mostly, at about 68mph. Drove straight and true, no crabbing, no wandering, no following ruts in the great state of CA's freeways.
I stopped at a rest stop and looked underneath the front end only to find that both front sway bar bushings were as worn as the ones I replaced less than 600 miles previously. I eventually ended up crossing a couple of ratchet straps hooked to the sway bar outside the "frame" rails and that helped some, but not entirely.
I guess my questions would be:
"Any idea what would cause a pair of brand new bushings to wear out in less that 1k miles?"
"Any idea what would cause the vehicle to rock as it does?"
Only once, on my 2300 mile journey, did I feel that I could possibly lose control of the vehicle and had to slow down.
(This is more of a request for after the fact information as my plans are to instal a complete aftermarket lift system within the next couple of months. But, I still need to drive this vehicle every day until that happens.)
TNX for any/all help with this!
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
OK. There is plenty on this site about "death wobble", what about "death rock"?
1993, 4L, 5spd, 4dr, all stock. I purchased this rig a couple of months ago and replaced all four ball joints, both front axle u-joints, four shocks, front sway bar bushings (poly) and had it aligned. The 4x4 place that aligned it did not find any worn parts/bushings/etc in the front end at that time.
I headed for Death Valley (800m OW) and only got about as far as SAC when the rig started rocking side to side. Started about 60mph and went away, mostly, at about 68mph. Drove straight and true, no crabbing, no wandering, no following ruts in the great state of CA's freeways.
I stopped at a rest stop and looked underneath the front end only to find that both front sway bar bushings were as worn as the ones I replaced less than 600 miles previously. I eventually ended up crossing a couple of ratchet straps hooked to the sway bar outside the "frame" rails and that helped some, but not entirely.
I guess my questions would be:
"Any idea what would cause a pair of brand new bushings to wear out in less that 1k miles?"
"Any idea what would cause the vehicle to rock as it does?"
Only once, on my 2300 mile journey, did I feel that I could possibly lose control of the vehicle and had to slow down.
(This is more of a request for after the fact information as my plans are to instal a complete aftermarket lift system within the next couple of months. But, I still need to drive this vehicle every day until that happens.)
TNX for any/all help with this!
1993, 4L, 5spd, 4dr, all stock. I purchased this rig a couple of months ago and replaced all four ball joints, both front axle u-joints, four shocks, front sway bar bushings (poly) and had it aligned. The 4x4 place that aligned it did not find any worn parts/bushings/etc in the front end at that time.
I headed for Death Valley (800m OW) and only got about as far as SAC when the rig started rocking side to side. Started about 60mph and went away, mostly, at about 68mph. Drove straight and true, no crabbing, no wandering, no following ruts in the great state of CA's freeways.
I stopped at a rest stop and looked underneath the front end only to find that both front sway bar bushings were as worn as the ones I replaced less than 600 miles previously. I eventually ended up crossing a couple of ratchet straps hooked to the sway bar outside the "frame" rails and that helped some, but not entirely.
I guess my questions would be:
"Any idea what would cause a pair of brand new bushings to wear out in less that 1k miles?"
"Any idea what would cause the vehicle to rock as it does?"
Only once, on my 2300 mile journey, did I feel that I could possibly lose control of the vehicle and had to slow down.
(This is more of a request for after the fact information as my plans are to instal a complete aftermarket lift system within the next couple of months. But, I still need to drive this vehicle every day until that happens.)
TNX for any/all help with this!
Possible cracked block after replacing the head
Okay, I apparently don't know how to use this, but I'm trying to ask your alls opinion as where I'm as screwed up as I think. Bought a "99 Cherokee Sport from a freind who was closing his business. One of his employees was in the middle of replacing a cracked head. The employee got a new job and in the mean time the wheels were stolen. I bought used wheel/tires; the replacement head(rebuilt and magna fluxed) and had a shop install the head. Once they tried to start it the Alternator locked up, so I bought a new one. Runs very well but smoking badly(anti-freeze) out the tail pipe. They suggest Blue Devil and run it through three times plus a block sealer. Their conclusion, from talking to a machine shop is that there is a crack in a cylinder wall.
Does this sound reasonable?
Is there anything else to attempt before giving up on the motor (6cyl-4.0L)
This was supposed to be for my daughter.
THanks
Distressed Father
Does this sound reasonable?
Is there anything else to attempt before giving up on the motor (6cyl-4.0L)
This was supposed to be for my daughter.
THanks
Distressed Father
Junior Member
Okay, I apparently don't know how to use this, but I'm trying to ask your alls opinion as where I'm as screwed up as I think. Bought a "99 Cherokee Sport from a freind who was closing his business. One of his employees was in the middle of replacing a cracked head. The employee got a new job and in the mean time the wheels were stolen. I bought used wheel/tires; the replacement head(rebuilt and magna fluxed) and had a shop install the head. Once they tried to start it the Alternator locked up, so I bought a new one. Runs very well but smoking badly(anti-freeze) out the tail pipe. They suggest Blue Devil and run it through three times plus a block sealer. Their conclusion, from talking to a machine shop is that there is a crack in a cylinder wall.
Does this sound reasonable?
Is there anything else to attempt before giving up on the motor (6cyl-4.0L)
This was supposed to be for my daughter.
THanks
Distressed Father
Does this sound reasonable?
Is there anything else to attempt before giving up on the motor (6cyl-4.0L)
This was supposed to be for my daughter.
THanks
Distressed Father
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 802
Posts: 4,930
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Received 3 Likes
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay, I apparently don't know how to use this, but I'm trying to ask your alls opinion as where I'm as screwed up as I think. Bought a "99 Cherokee Sport from a freind who was closing his business. One of his employees was in the middle of replacing a cracked head. The employee got a new job and in the mean time the wheels were stolen. I bought used wheel/tires; the replacement head(rebuilt and magna fluxed) and had a shop install the head. Once they tried to start it the Alternator locked up, so I bought a new one. Runs very well but smoking badly(anti-freeze) out the tail pipe. They suggest Blue Devil and run it through three times plus a block sealer. Their conclusion, from talking to a machine shop is that there is a crack in a cylinder wall. Does this sound reasonable? Is there anything else to attempt before giving up on the motor (6cyl-4.0L) This was supposed to be for my daughter. THanks Distressed Father
CF Veteran
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Location: 802
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm installing a new headlight swticht on my 96. Removed the knee blocker, pulled down the switch enough to see the wire harness connector. I pulled pretty hard and tried to see if there clamps, but no success.
How am I supposed to achieve this?
In the picture it's the part right in the middle pointed by the arrow facing down
How am I supposed to achieve this?
In the picture it's the part right in the middle pointed by the arrow facing down