09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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10-28-2013, 12:17 AM
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Model: Cherokee
This is just an observation, but the only filters I've ever seen guys say they won't run are FRAM filters.
From the research I've done, the Mopar filters are made the same as Purolators, which are good filters. In my eyes, at least. So I think you'd be good with that filter. But- don't just take my word for it. I will freely admit I don't know as much as most people on here.
Oh, and the next time you cruise past an autozone or other parts store, swing in and see.
From the research I've done, the Mopar filters are made the same as Purolators, which are good filters. In my eyes, at least. So I think you'd be good with that filter. But- don't just take my word for it. I will freely admit I don't know as much as most people on here.
Oh, and the next time you cruise past an autozone or other parts store, swing in and see.
10-28-2013, 12:39 AM
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Location: Ware Shoals, SC
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
10-28-2013, 12:42 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
On my post last night I stated the year model wrong on my question.
I have a 85 XJ with a 904 auto, that will not change into 3rd gear. It would not go into reverse until the engine warmed up. I changed the filter/fluid & adjusted the reverse band. There was nothing abnormal in the pan. It now goes into reverse like it should but still no 3rd. Any help appreciated, or is there a thread on this? thanks.
I have a 85 XJ with a 904 auto, that will not change into 3rd gear. It would not go into reverse until the engine warmed up. I changed the filter/fluid & adjusted the reverse band. There was nothing abnormal in the pan. It now goes into reverse like it should but still no 3rd. Any help appreciated, or is there a thread on this? thanks.
Sorry I can't really help you out.
10-28-2013, 06:35 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
This is just an observation, but the only filters I've ever seen guys say they won't run are FRAM filters.
From the research I've done, the Mopar filters are made the same as Purolators, which are good filters. In my eyes, at least. So I think you'd be good with that filter. But- don't just take my word for it. I will freely admit I don't know as much as most people on here.
Oh, and the next time you cruise past an autozone or other parts store, swing in and see.
From the research I've done, the Mopar filters are made the same as Purolators, which are good filters. In my eyes, at least. So I think you'd be good with that filter. But- don't just take my word for it. I will freely admit I don't know as much as most people on here.
Oh, and the next time you cruise past an autozone or other parts store, swing in and see.
I know Wix are purpose built for applications. They're not some generic one that just "fits".
With our Jeeps and their odd filter positions, like upside down and sideways, we have to have the best anti-drainback valves. Period.
10-28-2013, 06:36 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
10-28-2013, 06:40 AM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Even Walmart Canada has stopped carrying FRAM.
10-28-2013, 06:49 AM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Why would you buy the most expensive oil yet the cheapest filter? Do you change the filter every 100 miles? Even the pricey synthetic FRAM filters are not to be trusted. The orange with bedliner grippy filters are like playing Russian Roulette.
Even Walmart Canada has stopped carrying FRAM.
Even Walmart Canada has stopped carrying FRAM.
10-28-2013, 08:02 AM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Quick question: doing brake work to my XJ has taken some time. A brake line busted and I have been replacing it (bend here, bend there, DOESNT FIT!!, unbend here, rebend there, CUSS, bend here...). Anyways this work has taken a few days (disc swap on a busy schedule), and I think the brake fluid for the rear circuit is kinda on E. I have always kept something in the rear soft-line splitter so it isn't just open and further leaking, but it has gotten to the point when I remove the 'block' fitting barely any fluid trickles out. Does this mean I have drained my master cylinder or any jank like that which would require something other than the traditional bleed (open bleeder, have assistant push brake and hold, close bleeder, let off brake pedal, repeat)? The front brakes were never opened and retained their fluid... just wasn't for sure.
Thanks!
Thanks!
10-28-2013, 08:08 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Quick question: doing brake work to my XJ has taken some time. A brake line busted and I have been replacing it (bend here, bend there, DOESNT FIT!!, unbend here, rebend there, CUSS, bend here...). Anyways this work has taken a few days (disc swap on a busy schedule), and I think the brake fluid for the rear circuit is kinda on E. I have always kept something in the rear soft-line splitter so it isn't just open and further leaking, but it has gotten to the point when I remove the 'block' fitting barely any fluid trickles out. Does this mean I have drained my master cylinder or any jank like that which would require something other than the traditional bleed (open bleeder, have assistant push brake and hold, close bleeder, let off brake pedal, repeat)? The front brakes were never opened and retained their fluid... just wasn't for sure.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Bleeding that sucker is going to take quite some time indeed.
10-28-2013, 08:15 AM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Not entirely empty. The old XJ's have a metal reservoir with two 'sections', which I always assumed were front and rear. Only one section is depleted. The other is fine. If I recall, this happened before when I replaced my wheel cylinders a while back and the driver's side hard line broke. Fluid drained, and all I did once repaired was a regular bleed and all was happy. I just ask this time because it has been a little bit longer.
10-28-2013, 08:26 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Not entirely empty. The old XJ's have a metal reservoir with two 'sections', which I always assumed were front and rear. Only one section is depleted. The other is fine. If I recall, this happened before when I replaced my wheel cylinders a while back and the driver's side hard line broke. Fluid drained, and all I did once repaired was a regular bleed and all was happy. I just ask this time because it has been a little bit longer.
10-28-2013, 08:54 AM
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
10-28-2013, 01:48 PM
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Location: Longview, TX
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre
Coolant in oil...still
Alright, so back in 2010 my cylinder head cracked and i had it replaced. That was at 120,xxx. I just changed my oil last week (now at 168 +) and sent a sample in to Blackstone Labs for an analysis and they called me today to inform me that i had trace amounts of coolant. The numbers are WAY down from what they were while i had the cracked head still on, but it is still present. Is there something I can put in my oil to get the rest of this crap out? Would one of the "Engine Flush" products/services shops provide be of any use? Thanks in advance
10-28-2013, 02:18 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I recently removed reinstalled and then removed my cylinder head. When I reinstall the cylinder head the first time I installed new head bolts. I am getting ready to put the cylinder head back on and my question is should I replace the head bolt again or would that set be capable of being used? I know the original head bolt set to throw away after removal but I don't know with aftermarket ones if after they are torqued they are no longer good or if they need to be heat cycle before they are no longer good. Any input on this?