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Old 10-28-2013, 02:24 PM
  #36631  
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Originally Posted by rosenhanclan
I recently removed reinstalled and then removed my cylinder head. When I reinstall the cylinder head the first time I installed new head bolts. I am getting ready to put the cylinder head back on and my question is should I replace the head bolt again or would that set be capable of being used? I know the original head bolt set to throw away after removal but I don't know with aftermarket ones if after they are torqued they are no longer good or if they need to be heat cycle before they are no longer good. Any input on this?
The bolts should be rated for two torque cycles, so you can reuse 'em once.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:34 PM
  #36632  
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Originally Posted by salad

The bolts should be rated for two torque cycles, so you can reuse 'em once.
X2 on that.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:39 PM
  #36633  
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Thank you for the info I know they're not that expensive but every dime I can save is more money I can put into something else
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:44 PM
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Picked up a set of leaf springs for the XJ. It has the long 3" AAL leaf installed on it. I want to crack it open, and put another full length spring directly underneath the main for longevity sake. Would this work okay? Not sure if a single set of S10 / Tacoma springs would result in wayyy too stiff of a ride. I run a hitch & bike rack on it at all times, so I wouldn't mind having a higher spring rate in general. Though when I go offroad, I would remove the rack. Hitch is 50 pounds, Rack is 50 pounds too. I also could put my main from the leafs that are currently in there below the main with the eyes cut off, but they are pretty sagged so not sure if itd be worth it.


Last edited by kgm; 10-28-2013 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:17 PM
  #36635  
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Just a quick update on my oil pressure issue: I couldn't beg steal or borrow a mechanical gauge so I bit the bullet and spent 30 bucks on a new sending unit and after a quick and easy five minute install, the problem is fixed!
Thanks to Cruiser and Chuck for the info!

Here's a super newbie question, but there are so many threads and so much info I can't get a straight answer, so here we go:
Cruiser (and anyone else who has the knowledge that he seems to have), if my 97 4.0 has 14x,xxx thousand miles, 99% of my time is spent driving around town, only a little bit of very light off roading, what kind of oil and what filter would be the best thing to get the most life out of my engine? I've also never run synthetic, would it be bad to switch or should I stay the course just using 10-30 dino juice?
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:27 PM
  #36636  
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Originally Posted by HINKLE83
Just a quick update on my oil pressure issue: I couldn't beg steal or borrow a mechanical gauge so I bit the bullet and spent 30 bucks on a new sending unit and after a quick and easy five minute install, the problem is fixed!
Thanks to Cruiser and Chuck for the info!

Here's a super newbie question, but there are so many threads and so much info I can't get a straight answer, so here we go:
Cruiser (and anyone else who has the knowledge that he seems to have), if my 97 4.0 has 14x,xxx thousand miles, 99% of my time is spent driving around town, only a little bit of very light off roading, what kind of oil and what filter would be the best thing to get the most life out of my engine? I've also never run synthetic, would it be bad to switch or should I stay the course just using 10-30 dino juice?
Wix or Napa Gold filter and Rotella T3 in 10w30.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:29 PM
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Thanks for the quick response! And that is great news, because we have a few hundred gallons of 10-30 Rotella for our outboard engines at work! Would there be a difference between what I need and the "marine" oil? If it is all the same across the board, I might never have to pay for oil again!
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by HINKLE83
Thanks for the quick response! And that is great news, because we have a few hundred gallons of 10-30 Rotella for our outboard engines at work! Would there be a difference between what I need and the "marine" oil? If it is all the same across the board, I might never have to pay for oil again!
You COULD be in luck. Get the info off the barrels.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:34 PM
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Crossing my fingers, I'll compare the numbers from a quart at Autozone with the specs on the barrels, and hope for the best! Thank you for your help, I appreciate your advice for us Jeep newbies.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:37 PM
  #36640  
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We appreciate the attitude of newbs like you. Some others---not so much.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:14 PM
  #36641  
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Heh.

If your work is using actual Rotella T Triple Protection you're good. I think Shell's marine brand is Nautilus which is no bueno.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:20 PM
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Anyone have a link to a decent rear shock hoop thread? Most of the ones i am finding are either tied into cages, using CO's, front shock hoops, or look like crap.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:38 PM
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I'm getting the bushing super kit from quadratec but I also plan on gettin actual 3 in lift leafs instead of the blocks that's under mine now so the question is should I go and and put the bushings for the leafs now or wait for the leafs so come in?

Last edited by dwilly; 10-28-2013 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Dang autocorrect
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Anyone have a link to a decent rear shock hoop thread? Most of the ones i am finding are either tied into cages, using CO's, front shock hoops, or look like crap.
pm me buddy. i got an awesome one if I can find it...

it's actually what i'm basing my hoops off of.
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:25 PM
  #36645  
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Originally Posted by dwilly
I'm getting the bushing super kit from quadratec but I also plan on gettin actual 3 in lift leafs instead of the blocks that's under mine now so the question is should I go and and put the bushings for the leafs now or wait for the leafs so come in?
Are you asking if you should put new bushings in your old leaf springs, only to completely replace the springs later?

Are you familiar with how they're installed? Or rather... how they're removed?
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