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Old 11-08-2013, 11:51 AM
  #37111  
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Is that confirmed with an IR thermometer or going off the dash? 1996 and prior XJs have a separate sensor to drive the dash gauge from the one the PCM uses to trigger the aux fan.
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Old 11-08-2013, 01:56 PM
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Yeah, gauges are not always right. Fan won't kick on until it reaches 218 or ac is on.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:19 PM
  #37113  
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Originally Posted by salad
1990 should be ~39 PSI give or take 5. You should see fluttering related to RPM
31 psi at idle. Should go to 39 psi when you disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:41 PM
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Old 11-08-2013, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
I stole the photo!!!
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

31 psi at idle. Should go to 39 psi when you disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
Thanks I'll check it out tonight and see if its my issue.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Is that confirmed with an IR thermometer or going off the dash? 1996 and prior XJs have a separate sensor to drive the dash gauge from the one the PCM uses to trigger the aux fan.
well I just replaced the thermostat and housing to fix the problem of it not reading correctly, it actually did overheat once and the fan didn't turn on before or after it cut out
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:53 PM
  #37118  
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Originally Posted by tuff99
well I just replaced the thermostat and housing to fix the problem of it not reading correctly, it actually did overheat once and the fan didn't turn on before or after it cut out
Non-working efans aren't uncommon. I forget if it's usually a relay problem or temp sensor. I think it's usually the fan's temp sensor, depending on the year. I just wired my fan to a switch and stopped worrying about it.
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:16 PM
  #37119  
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Originally Posted by tuff99
well I just replaced the thermostat and housing to fix the problem of it not reading correctly, it actually did overheat once and the fan didn't turn on before or after it cut out
Neither of those have anything to do with the two temperature sensors you may or may not have on your undisclosed model year lol
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Old 11-08-2013, 09:20 PM
  #37120  
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Originally Posted by salad
Neither of those have anything to do with the two temperature sensors you may or may not have on your undisclosed model year lol

Like this? It's much more polite than the first one. Feel free to use it, HolySirSalad.

Thanks for your post.
We’re here to help but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same.
In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc:
Year
Model
Engine
Transmission

The first one:

Sounds harsh but just makes sense:
"Let’s play a game.

You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine/model, etc that you are asking about.

We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle".

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Old 11-08-2013, 11:18 PM
  #37121  
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Hey guys, so I left my (ignition) on the other day for four hours! Is there a possibility I fried something?? It started up immediately and the lights an everything were bright as usual.. I don't understand how it didn't fry something or did it ? 1990 xj 4.0 L
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 7ate9
Hey guys, so I left my (ignition) on the other day for four hours! Is there a possibility I fried something?? It started up immediately and the lights an everything were bright as usual.. I don't understand how it didn't fry something or did it ? 1990 xj 4.0 L
How would it have fried something? All it would have done was drain your battery but it started up fine so your good.
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Old 11-08-2013, 11:26 PM
  #37123  
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Surprised you didn't kill the battery. It runs the fuel pump, O2 sensor heater, and ECU. Why would it fry something?
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Marks2000XJ
This has probably been beat to death but I will ask anyway. When I bought my 98 Cherokee Sport the a/c compressor would not cut on. Added some freon and it started working. Obviously the low pressure switch. I figured there was a freon leak, and I was right. Last summer 2 cans of freon, this summer just 1 can got me by.

So now the weather is cooling off and I need to use my heat. Well, I have never had this problem before but now the windows are fogging up really bad when I run the heat. The freon was a little low so I added a can to help dry the air when running the defrost. It helped a little but not enough to remedy the problem.

I know what you are going to say. The heater core is going out. Well, I checked it and it seems to be okay. I do not have any leaking going on inside on the floor board. Flushed the heater core out, blew it out with air just to make sure it was not clogged or dirty. No issues there. Refilled with coolant and burped.

After cranking it back up and letting it run, I noticed my temp gauge actually went up to midway. Something I have not seen in a while. Temp has been staying down kind of low like the thermostat is staying stuck open? With the temp gauge at half way, heat was blowing super hot and no fogging.

Get in the heep last night to come home from work and it is cold out. Turn on the heat and dang it if the whole thing does not fog up again. Temps is not going up to half way point either like it was earlier in the day after flushing heater core. I don't know if messing with the heater core hoses at the t-stat housing maybe jarred the t-stat loose where it was functional temporarily? Would a bad t-stat stuck in the open position cause window fogging?

I don't want to start screaming bad heater core just yet because it flushed out clean. Just a tad bit of dirty coolant came out. And no leaking or coolant smell inside the vehicle.

Any help or tips how to trouble shoot problem would be great.
Maybe this was too much to read but I will try posting it again. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:54 AM
  #37125  
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Sounds like a minor leak in the heater core to me
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