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Old 11-23-2013, 07:51 PM
  #37516  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Grease everything first. Check the fluid condition in a week. If it's funky, do another drain and fill.
Grease everything as in?

I was also considering changing the diff fluid (also somewhat of an excuse for me to check if I have 27/29 spline 8.25) but I'm not sure how much/what weight I'll need...
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tssguy123
Grease everything as in?

I was also considering changing the diff fluid (also somewhat of an excuse for me to check if I have 27/29 spline 8.25) but I'm not sure how much/what weight I'll need...
It doesn't hurt to search....




Chrysler 8.25 - 4.4 Pints (2.0L) SAE 75W-90
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:20 PM
  #37518  
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Nevermind! found instructions online

Last edited by Joecam18; 11-23-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 11-24-2013, 02:21 AM
  #37519  
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Default AX15 compatibility?

hey guys new to the forum and new to jeeps and have read a few places that i may be able to use a dodge dakota 5speed to replace my ax15, the only reason is i have access to a rebuilt v6 dakota 5 speed and my options are limited as far as wreckers go as the closest one is a 4 hour drive away. any help would be awesome
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:52 AM
  #37520  
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Originally Posted by kips91cherokee
hey guys new to the forum and new to jeeps and have read a few places that i may be able to use a dodge dakota 5speed to replace my ax15, the only reason is i have access to a rebuilt v6 dakota 5 speed and my options are limited as far as wreckers go as the closest one is a 4 hour drive away. any help would be awesome
Yep, the transmission itself will work, however you'll need a Jeep 4.0L bellhousing.
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:32 AM
  #37521  
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Ran into an issue with my JCR stage 3 rocker install. Ive been reading around and it seems im gonna have to muscle my passenger side one into place. I think the tubing that holds the frame plates are just slightly off.

To clarify, when i press the front frame plate on and match the pinch seam bracket on, the back frame plate isnt lined up and vice versa. I was thinking of bolting on the front plate and them using a floor jack to press the back plate up and then bolt that one on. Thoughts?
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Old 11-24-2013, 11:56 AM
  #37522  
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Using the floor jack sounds fine.

Not sure about any QA problems, but consider your XJ is, uh, bent. lol
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:50 PM
  #37523  
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Question... I have to have something welded on the body of my jeep,should I disconnect the engine computer before, I thought I read something about this at one time but it was on a different car
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Old 11-24-2013, 12:51 PM
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Disconnect the battery.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:08 PM
  #37525  
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I do a lot of towing and I was looking into getting this cam. What else would I have to do besides replace the can to get it running right. And I plan on stroking it later, would this work alright with that.

Vehicle is 1998 4.0 aw4 4x4
http://www.compperformancegroupstore..._Code=A6CAMSHE

Last edited by ridinclassic; 11-24-2013 at 01:10 PM.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ridinclassic
I do a lot of towing and I was looking into getting this cam. What else would I have to do besides replace the can to get it running right. And I plan on stroking it later, would this work alright with that.

Vehicle is 1998 4.0 aw4 4x4
http://www.compperformancegroupstore..._Code=A6CAMSHE
Big transmission cooler.
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:43 PM
  #37527  
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Found one that helped, thanks.
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Old 11-24-2013, 10:56 PM
  #37528  
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I have a 1985 wagoneer with the horibble 2.8l. I tried the search function and found nothing. I cannot get it started. I have fuel and no spark. Engine cranks but don't start. I drove a mile away from my house and it died and wouldn't start back up. I replaced the coil, plugs, wires and cap. I have no spark at the coil. Any help would be awesome!

Also there is no crank position sensor on this model.
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Old 11-25-2013, 12:06 AM
  #37529  
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Originally Posted by barclaymatthewr
I have a 1985 wagoneer with the horibble 2.8l. I tried the search function and found nothing. I cannot get it started. I have fuel and no spark. Engine cranks but don't start. I drove a mile away from my house and it died and wouldn't start back up. I replaced the coil, plugs, wires and cap. I have no spark at the coil. Any help would be awesome!

Also there is no crank position sensor on this model.
You have an ignition control module under the distributor rotor that should be held down by 2 screws/bolts. I see other 2.8 no spark threads that lead to this module. This could be a possibility.
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:30 AM
  #37530  
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Electrical question:
My LED light bar came with an On/Off switch that illuminates when on. I want to replace it with my OEM fog light switch which operates the same way.

(Don't worry about the relays and such; I'm using a separate harness instead of the OEM fog light wiring. I just want to use the switch.)

The setup works with the included switch. It doesn't work with the fog light switch.

Both have ground on top (A), constant in the middle (B), and switched on the bottom (C).

The included switch doesn't have continuity between any poles when flipped to the Off position. When on, it has no resistance between B and C.

The fog light switch has 48 ohms resistance between A and C in the off position. When flipped On, it has 48 ohms resistance between A and B and also between A and C. No resistance between B and C in the On position.

What's with the 48 ohms, and why doesn't the OEM fog light switch work for me?
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