sycoglitch

If at red lights it shot up then i would think pump possibly or thermostat isn't opening. Im trying to think what, in such cold temps, would cause this. Do you come out tk ice on the radiator and grill. Maybe cover them with cardboard overnight.

And as for fuel, warm sensors use less gas i thought. So letting fluids warm up works for me even if it does use some gas.

sycoglitch

What thermostAt degree did you get and you should get dealer thermostat. Much better and doesn't cost too much more. To my knowledge motorad has 3 types of thermostat. Dealer one ends in AC

salad

No, more like at red lights it evens out to where it should be. When moving with the heater on it drops a lot hehe. At least it did yesterday. No ice anywhere.

Yeah, when driving... Do you think idling for half an hour doesn't use any fuel or something? Lol

SalesXJ

Thanks for that . I was staring at it for like 5 minuets trying to figure it out. But Thanks

sycoglitch

Try this. After a drive. Park up and let it idle for 10 mins. See if it goes up. Either fins on pump or you can try to flushthe radiator. Just running ideas.

And of course fuel gets used. Its a jeep dammit. It always eats gas. Hell when when parked i feel a jeep pisses gas out

salad

I shall. This literally started yesterday. Pretty sure its just the fan clutch won't warm up though.

Mullet Bullet

I got the same motorad as what you get from the dealer. I'm not paying $35 for a thermostat, no reason for them to mark it up that much. I will double check part numbers when I get home but I know it is a 195* stat.

Mullet Bullet

Motorad part number #2000195

192* stat, OEM recommend high flow is what I ordered.

sycoglitch

WhAt year is your jeep again

tssguy123

What SHOULD my o2 sensor voltages be? I'm getting 0.4v on the upstream and 0.1v on the downstream. I know that I'm going to have to replace them, just trying to find out how far off they are. I checked the wiring (the code goes on and off sporadically) and it looks fine. No obvious burns or frayed connection.

96 4.0

salad

Nothing like that. O2 sensor input varies constantly, they're not constant sensors like MAP or IAT or anything like that. Upstream will always swing wildly, a healthy one should go both high and low.

Downstream should be somewhere between 0.0 and 1.0 lol. Pay attention to LTFT and STFT, without an oscilloscope or live graphing functionality you're just looking at whether there's a short or an open.

tssguy123

I thought somebody on here said something about "correct" voltages. My bad. Should I worry about a wiring issue if I'm getting a code P0132 (o2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage B1S1) that goes off and on?

It lists two LTFT and STFT gauges... one for bank 1 and one for bank 2. Which one should I keep an eye on?

salad

If you haven't replaced the upstream O2 do so anyway. NTK OE is like $30 on RockAuto or something like that.

In the meantime look for wiring issues indeed. The code is thrown when one of the supply voltages (5V for the sensor, 12V for the heater) is picked up on the PCM input. The upstream sensor's wiring is awfully close to the exhaust manifold and subject to a lot of heat, as well on some years it may be tacked up near the front DS. Abrasion from rodents or even the DS would not surprise me.

Bank 1. XJs didn't get Bank 2 until 2000+ California/50-state emissions.

Maybe GM 2.8L V6 with OBD-I had two STFTs but we'll pretend that doesn't exist lol.

tssguy123

lol. I don't have a front DS luckily one less thing to worry about. I checked the wiring directly at the sensor(s) and it looks fine AT them. I didn't see any fraying or melted insulation. I'm going to go drive around the neighborhood logging the STFT/LTFT and I guess I'll post it here and you can tell me what you think. Haha.

I'm definitely, 100% going to replace my o2 sensors. Both of them. I have to buy $400 worth of books in a couple days or I'd be ordering them right now.

salad

If you can get a graph of the O2 sensors once the Jeep has warmed up that'd be helpful.