salad

Excellent. I expect you're going to correctly refer to the "other" D30 axle shaft type as Rzeppa CV joints, too.

sycoglitch

dshoebottom

Woo! After some very tough hunting I figured out what was giving my rear wheel a hop, and binding of the jeep steering on tight turns. I have a 242 t case, and after looking under the jeep I found my shift level out of whack, but not only that is was also in the wrong position. So 2wd was really 4wd. I suspect that I get the binding on turning in 4wd because it's raised and the pinion angle is off, but I only trail ride it and shift in the fly. So with that said I fixed the shifter and was able to pop the t case into 2wd after backing up then driving. No clue why this made it work but it did. So although my leaf bushings are loose this was not the cause of my wheel hop at all. Praise the Jeep Gods this one is solved!!!

tssguy123

Wait, was it in 4 low, high, or full time?

dshoebottom

It was in low I believe that's why it was hopping again all this on dry ground ect. My shifter is all out of whack

cherokeereed310

I recently bought a jeep cherokee sport 2001 4x4. Car ran pretty good for a while until recently the check engine light came on due to a misfire. When i start the car sometimes the car begins to shake, when it does this i simply leave the car alone for a little and when i come back it starts up just fine. Also when popping the hood when it first happened i realized i barely had any engine coolant, i then added some hoping to solve the problem until it happened again and once again there was hardly any coolant, but the car still hasn't over heated. what could be causing the misfire to happen only sometimes and not all the time? I need some suggestions

tssguy123

Uh, binding in 4 low is normal...

Houston Kid

Mine does the same thing around 20 mph though and will continue down to about 2000 rpm. I have a 3" lift. Guess I need to do some more wrenching. That will be after I fix the leaking timing chain cover and crank seal.

salad

Check your engine oil immediately. If it looks like mud instead of used oil you bought s cracked head.

And get the codes read somewhere. Many parts stores do this for free

pdowty68

Get your codes checked for misfire, and pull the plug wires one at a time, if the engine sounds the same with one or more wires removed, that's the cylinder(s) not firing. If the engine runs rough when you remove a wire, then that cylinder is not misfiring

joeogio

hello all ive been having some cooling issues with my 90 xj. first ill fill you in on what i have setup and then ill tell you what the problem is. i have a new champion 3 row all aluminum radiator a newish water pump (about 2 years old) and the thermostat was replaced about the same time, and so were the hoses. i also got rid of the clutch fan and installed two 10" pull fans and wired them up to two hayden adjustable fan controllers one comes on at 180 ish degrees and the other around 195-200. the jeep stays cool as long as im around 1000rpm or moving its when im idling in a drive thru or stuck in traffic it tries to over heat and gets up to 210 and would keep going if i let it but if i give it a little gas and bring the rpm up to 800-1000 it cools down and stays that way as long as i keep the rpm up. it did this before i did the electric fan conversion and i thought it was the clutch fan not moving enough air but now bringing up the rpm has no effect on air flow.

do you think my water pump or t-stat needs to be replaced?
what should my rpms be at idle when its warm right now it averages between 500 and 600 if thats too low how do i change it?
parts ive also recently replaced is the tps, plug wires, rotor cap and button, heater t valve assembly. alternator, battery.

NewKindOfClown

Sounds like you replaced a bad clutch with two efans that don't pull enough CFM.

pdowty68

exactly! It really pisses me off when people put only efans on them, the belt driven fan is designed to cool the 4.0, and it does it's job perfectly fine. But when you add power hungry electric fans, your alternator will just tighten up. No you don't need a high output alternator now, you need to fix what was causing the problem in the first place, not avoiding it and doing a subpar and more complex "repair"

pdowty68

And the 4.0's fan sounds cool when the engine is cool and you drive off.

Lowrange2

Yeah, you can't get people to grasp that concept. Adding e fans and hood vents is not the answer to an overheating engine...