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Old 06-02-2010, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Loganfwx
So I've heard power steering pumps make noise before they die. Is this a wooshing noise at full turn, or is that normal?
Normal, check fluid level. If it was low in fluid then it will take some time till all the air bubbles (noise) get out. It's not immediate.
Originally Posted by smaughmer
Well I really can't figure out how to post something so I'm doing it this way.
I have a 96 cherokee country. I am installing a budget lift for now but wanting to know if I should get axle shims so I don't get a vibration and if I should install an adjustable track bar so I don't get the death wobble. I drive this truck daily so I want it to still be able to go down the road without all the hassles I have read about. What do I do?
I suppose you are talkig about the 2 inch BB from either teraflex or procomp. You don't need shims and track bar.

Originally Posted by mtparker97
question for ya'll. have a 99 and destroyed my rear quarter panel. darn the luck. anyways will the rear quarters off other years work? want to try my hand at replacing it to see what i can do. that and the rear window behind the door on the other side decided it wanted a tree to come in too. will other years windows work for it too? thanks all.
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Originally Posted by jeep3200
Hi all - I am working some wiring issues to the door and wondered if anyone knew the manufacturer or part number for the pins and connectors used for the speakers and the power windows? I am interested in rerunning the wires in to the connector housings and not having a splice to get into the connector. Thanks for any hints.
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Originally Posted by zachm2010
just the buttons i tried duct tape but that only worked for a few weeks
you prolly lost the little clamps that hold the switches in place. Look on the bottom of the door behind the panel.
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Old 06-02-2010, 11:34 AM
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Ok, adding fluid to my differentials(gonna get it changed soon, this is temporary) and I've never done it before. i found the socket on the front one no problem and that seems easy(unscrew fill, close it up). So I look at the rear diff and there is what looks like a rubber plug?! Is this right? If I pull it out what's under it? Is this really all that's holding the oil in the diff? I can see that some oils is leaking from it, should I replace it? Is this something I can pick up at NAPA? What rear diff is this? (96 sport, stock as far as I know) thanks for the help.

edit: Ok I figured out it's a Dana 35, is it limited slip?

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Old 06-02-2010, 01:31 PM
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when i start my 1987 jeep wagoneer 4.0L FI 6cyl, it starts fine but doesn't idle.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:35 PM
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i normally have to deppress the gas pedal until the engine warms up in order for it to idle
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by garry
i normally have to deppress the gas pedal until the engine warms up in order for it to idle
sounds like a sensor issue, my first two guesses based on the symptoms would be the Throttle Position Sensor or the Idle Air Control Valve.

Another possible issue could be the coolant temp sensor or any temperature related sensors as you say the engine idles fine after it warms up.

I suggest getting a multi-meter if you don't already have one and testing all your sensors one by one.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:24 PM
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Question redrilling the stock trackbar hole for an RE bar

i just bought an adj trackbar from RE for my 4.5 inch lift.. i have to redrill the bracket hole to 5/8ths inch. the tierod is in the way of my drill.. if i drill at an angle the hole will be crooked.. how do i get around the tierod to actualy drill the hole straight.. i tryed jacking up the car but i didnt disco the sway bar and go high up but i probably should have tried that.. i thought i could come here and maybe get an answer.. any suggestions? anyone whos done this before?
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Old 06-02-2010, 05:07 PM
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Rear quarter panel? do you plan on cutting it out and welding in a new one? because its part of the unibody and can't really be replaced(okay it can, but its stupidly impractical from where I sit) My recommendation for repair would be to get the dents out the best you can and then buy some rear quarter panel armor...there's a reason that at least 3 or 4 different companies make the stuff.

For the window...really any year of the same body style should work.
well i was just going to cut the outside of it. companies that make the guards? heck with that i want to build it. this is a built not bought jeep. my last one was a bought not built and it drove me crazy but now i have a welder its on. was just going to cut and put the outside piece in just to have a good body line to follow for the armor.

the window thats great news i wasnt for sure. ill pick one up then and go to town.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mtparker97
well i was just going to cut the outside of it. companies that make the guards? heck with that i want to build it. this is a built not bought jeep. my last one was a bought not built and it drove me crazy but now i have a welder its on. was just going to cut and put the outside piece in just to have a good body line to follow for the armor.

the window thats great news i wasnt for sure. ill pick one up then and go to town.
cutting it out isn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd just pull/bang/push the dents out the best I could and the bolt a piece of 1/8th on for a quarter guard and incoporate a new tail light into that. Something along the lines of what THOR4x4 makes...

http://www.thor4x4.com/html/xj_corner_guards.html

It'd be really easy to fab up your own version of that. I'd bolt not weld so that if you need to remove it, It'd be fairly easy.
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
cutting it out isn't worth the hassle IMO. I'd just pull/bang/push the dents out the best I could and the bolt a piece of 1/8th on for a quarter guard and incoporate a new tail light into that. Something along the lines of what THOR4x4 makes...

http://www.thor4x4.com/html/xj_corner_guards.html

It'd be really easy to fab up your own version of that. I'd bolt not weld so that if you need to remove it, It'd be fairly easy.

yeah i was thinking of doing that same thing but adding tube fender flares too. but i dont think 1/8 is going to be enough but 3/16 is probably too much though. my thinking a sheet that big in 1/8 would be a little flimsy, thoughts?
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Old 06-02-2010, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mtparker97
yeah i was thinking of doing that same thing but adding tube fender flares too. but i dont think 1/8 is going to be enough but 3/16 is probably too much though. my thinking a sheet that big in 1/8 would be a little flimsy, thoughts?
No, my bad. I meant to say 3/16ths, 1/8th is too thin and 1/4 would be overkill(for most that is)

Thor uses 3/16ths and its a good compromise for weight and strength.
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Anthonyb
Ok, adding fluid to my differentials(gonna get it changed soon, this is temporary) and I've never done it before. i found the socket on the front one no problem and that seems easy(unscrew fill, close it up). So I look at the rear diff and there is what looks like a rubber plug?! Is this right? If I pull it out what's under it? Is this really all that's holding the oil in the diff? I can see that some oils is leaking from it, should I replace it? Is this something I can pick up at NAPA? What rear diff is this? (96 sport, stock as far as I know) thanks for the help.

edit: Ok I figured out it's a Dana 35, is it limited slip?
Relax dude, haha, yes that little rubber thing holds all the oil in there. Just put some silicone on the cap before you put it back on. Don't overfill the pumpkin over the hole. The sport did not come with a trac-loc diff, anyway there is a tag that says it if it's a LSD.
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Old 06-03-2010, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Allusion
i just bought an adj trackbar from RE for my 4.5 inch lift.. i have to redrill the bracket hole to 5/8ths inch. the tierod is in the way of my drill.. if i drill at an angle the hole will be crooked.. how do i get around the tierod to actualy drill the hole straight.. i tryed jacking up the car but i didnt disco the sway bar and go high up but i probably should have tried that.. i thought i could come here and maybe get an answer.. any suggestions? anyone whos done this before?
Don't be lazy remove the steering linkage.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:49 AM
  #388  
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Ok two ?'s can I fit 30x9.50 15's with a 4 backspacing on a stock hight jeep without rubbing,and i want to put an open loop radiator in do i have to change the upper rad crossmember on my 87.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:51 AM
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yes, no.
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:00 PM
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thnx for the fast reply,I love this forum
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