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Old 02-08-2014, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I seem to recall lug nut torque specs to be 85/115. Is that correct? And if so, which is for steel wheels and which is for aluminum?
I use 85 on my aluminum wheels. Discount Tire has a chart on their site.
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:45 AM
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Since I bought my jeep a few months back I have been trying to figure out if it was lifted or not, it clears my 31x10.5's fine other then on tight turns it rubs the sway bar on the passenger side. I can't see any painted name brand and the shocks are rancho 9000's.

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Old 02-08-2014, 10:51 AM
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yes diesel, im from portugal, but im not interested in check codes but my fuel pump thats why im asking
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
Since I bought my jeep a few months back I have been trying to figure out if it was lifted or not, it clears my 31x10.5's fine other then on tight turns it rubs the sway bar on the passenger side. I can't see any painted name brand and the shocks are rancho 9000's.
It probably is. How's the CA angle and the DS angle
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
It probably is. How's the CA angle and the DS angle
I have a angle finder, anyone know the stock specs, I'll drive to a flat parking lot and measure them. I not have any vibrations and the control arms look like they have a good angle.
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:21 AM
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Control arm

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Front driveshaft

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Rear DS
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
Control arm

Front driveshaft

Rear DS
That's awesome take some side pictures and post those
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Old 02-08-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
Since I bought my jeep a few months back I have been trying to figure out if it was lifted or not, it clears my 31x10.5's fine other then on tight turns it rubs the sway bar on the passenger side. I can't see any painted name brand and the shocks are rancho 9000's.
Coil spacers, shackles? 2" BB probably.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet

I have a angle finder, anyone know the stock specs, I'll drive to a flat parking lot and measure them. I not have any vibrations and the control arms look like they have a good angle.
Didn't read this before. If the CA are stock and have an angle, is def lifted. The 31s untrimmed is proof of this. As for watt size lift. I forgot what stock height to flares or the such are
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Coil spacers, shackles? 2" BB probably.
That's what I thought originally, but I don't see spacers and the shackles look orignal. I was thinking it might be a AAL and coils in the front.

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Old 02-08-2014, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
That's what I thought originally, but I don't see spacers and the shackles look orignal. I was thinking it might be a AAL and coils in the front.



I do believe you're correct. - Go to the JY, get dakota or s10 leafs, ditch the AAL and make a bastard pack... your rear is already starting to sag.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
Since I bought my jeep a few months back I have been trying to figure out if it was lifted or not, it clears my 31x10.5's fine other then on tight turns it rubs the sway bar on the passenger side. I can't see any painted name brand and the shocks are rancho 9000's.
Lifted with stock track bar. Relocate it or get an adjustable one. The axle is physically too far to the driver's side.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Lifted with stock track bar. Relocate it or get an adjustable one. The axle is physically too far to the driver's side.
Yup sure is... didn't even see that, good eye.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:45 PM
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Recommend a good track bar? I always hear to her a double sheer, care to explain the differences. The jeep is a DD and camping trips, very light wheelin.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mullet Bullet
Recommend a good track bar? I always hear to her a double sheer, care to explain the differences. The jeep is a DD and camping trips, very light wheelin.
Looks like you have a 3" lift on there, Iron Rock Offroad's is frequently recommended.

The OE setup uses a tie rod end at the frame which is single shear. Not a huge deal since it's a tapered stud, but the length can't be changed and the ball joint wears quickly at extreme (relatively speaking) operating angles.

Single shear has one place force is transferred:


Double shear has two! See how that works? Lol


As you can imagine, a single shear joint will wear faster and be weaker than a double.
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