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02-12-2014, 07:51 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Depends on how much you want to spend. For stock get the most expensive/lowest CCA battery you can find. I do not recommend going past about 800 in this size with a standard flooded lead-acid cell as the density is so great that reliability becomes a real problem. If you want more get an Odyssey aka DieHard Platinum (Bruce Willis of batteries, duh).
There are just a few plants making batteries in the world. Cheap is cheap is cheap no matter who made it.
I picked up a 670CCA 34/78 with a decade long warranty for $120 or something. This is the smallest I could buy in the high ended traditional battery class. Turns over 5w40 just fine in -20, this is its second winter.
02-12-2014, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Lol 450. Pretty sure stock size is 500 CCA... Depends on how much you want to spend. For stock get the most expensive/lowest CCA battery you can find. I do not recommend going past about 800 in this size with a standard flooded lead-acid cell as the density is so great that reliability becomes a real problem. If you want more get an Odyssey aka DieHard Platinum (Bruce Willis of batteries, duh). There are just a few plants making batteries in the world. Cheap is cheap is cheap no matter who made it. I picked up a 670CCA 34/78 with a decade long warranty for $120 or something. This is the smallest I could buy in the high ended traditional battery class. Turns over 5w40 just fine in -20, this is its second winter.
02-12-2014, 08:13 AM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
In and of itself, yes, you get more power. The only way to do that in a conventional battery is pack the lead plates closer and closer. When you do that the likelihood that a cell will short out internally goes WAY up. Reliability suffers even on street driven vehicles as pot holes are enough to cause problems in some batteries.
The guy at the parts counter had the same reaction. I told him I wanted a battery like the 10-year-old factory one I was replacing, not the battery that every second reviewer on their site had problems with after three months.
Helical and AGM are of course a different story.
The guy at the parts counter had the same reaction. I told him I wanted a battery like the 10-year-old factory one I was replacing, not the battery that every second reviewer on their site had problems with after three months.
Helical and AGM are of course a different story.
02-12-2014, 08:43 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: West Valley City, UT
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
02-12-2014, 09:05 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
extending heater hoses for flush
What are the IDs of the two heater core hoses on my 2000 XJ?
After doing my first flush, I realize that I could do a cleaner job if I bought some cheap hoses with the same ID that I can run out of the engine compartment. I should have checked while they were disconnected. Replacement hoses online don't show any specs beyond fitment.
Thanks
After doing my first flush, I realize that I could do a cleaner job if I bought some cheap hoses with the same ID that I can run out of the engine compartment. I should have checked while they were disconnected. Replacement hoses online don't show any specs beyond fitment.
Thanks
02-12-2014, 10:36 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: W. Central Florida
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One last question. Here's a pic showing 2 hoses that were not replaced, and they "feel" crunchy inside if I squeeze them. Especially the top one.
I just spent all this $$$ getting the radiator and other coolant system items replaced. Is it safe to drive the car home with these hoses that obviously have stuff in them? Are these heater hoses? Once I get home I will look at the manual and try to educate myself a bit better.
Will attempting to make the heater work allow the contaminate coolant from these hoses into the main coolant system? Or is the water/antifreeze contaminating the whole coolant system already?
If these 2 hoses are full of crud, do I need to replace them like TODAY?
thanks, I appreciate it.
I just spent all this $$$ getting the radiator and other coolant system items replaced. Is it safe to drive the car home with these hoses that obviously have stuff in them? Are these heater hoses? Once I get home I will look at the manual and try to educate myself a bit better.
Will attempting to make the heater work allow the contaminate coolant from these hoses into the main coolant system? Or is the water/antifreeze contaminating the whole coolant system already?
If these 2 hoses are full of crud, do I need to replace them like TODAY?
thanks, I appreciate it.
wow. They really did pull the head (I saw the gasket). The labor was about $350 - $85 was radiator replacement labor, the rest of that amt was pulling the head and replacing that ($9) freeze plug.
The rest of the cost was parts. Radiator, hoses, cap, thermostat, etc. Coolant.
I think I will start taking it by a shop that seems to specialize in Jeeps.
Thanks guys.
I'm getting to the point in life where I really appreciate the services of a good mechanic, rather than doing stuff myself, but I like to research stuff and try to learn what I'm looking at.
So you think they actually didn't even pull the head at all? or just "scamming" in charging too much?
I guess I need to find a new "Daddy" (mech.) for the Jeep. When it's running good, it's soooooo nice to drive.
The rest of the cost was parts. Radiator, hoses, cap, thermostat, etc. Coolant.
I think I will start taking it by a shop that seems to specialize in Jeeps.
Thanks guys.
I'm getting to the point in life where I really appreciate the services of a good mechanic, rather than doing stuff myself, but I like to research stuff and try to learn what I'm looking at.
So you think they actually didn't even pull the head at all? or just "scamming" in charging too much?
I guess I need to find a new "Daddy" (mech.) for the Jeep. When it's running good, it's soooooo nice to drive.
02-12-2014, 12:55 PM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
02-12-2014, 02:06 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
02-12-2014, 05:32 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All of a sudden my jeep will shift late like wait to 3 grand to up shift, and idle speed to downshift. I'm thinking it might be something electrical??? Checked my tranny fluid and it's right on full and still looks nice and red. Any suggestions
02-12-2014, 05:48 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Look up how to test the throttle position sensor (TPS)