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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
There's a really good write up on jeep forum for 97+ xjs. There's a good way to do it where its as easy as older jeeps. Just before you take the hinges of, mark the metal good so that when you bolt them on again, everything lines up.
This year im probably gonna go doorless since im buying a house and Will have a garage. I have an 01
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: VA
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Crank/Cam timing marks
Working on my 2000 XJ 4.0. Lined up the timing marks when I pulled the timing chain. Put the new chain/gears on. Lined every thing back up the same way. Rotated the engine, rechecked the marks, and everything looks good.
My problem, the Haynes manual says to rotate the crank clockwise until the cam timing mark is at the 1 O'clock mark, the crank mark should be at the 3 O'clock , then count the number of pins, it should be 15. Mine is 20. I believe I have it correct, but just want to verify with someone that has worked on these before. Thanks.......RR
My problem, the Haynes manual says to rotate the crank clockwise until the cam timing mark is at the 1 O'clock mark, the crank mark should be at the 3 O'clock , then count the number of pins, it should be 15. Mine is 20. I believe I have it correct, but just want to verify with someone that has worked on these before. Thanks.......RR
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Location: Frederick, MD
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Working on my 2000 XJ 4.0. Lined up the timing marks when I pulled the timing chain. Put the new chain/gears on. Lined every thing back up the same way. Rotated the engine, rechecked the marks, and everything looks good.
My problem, the Haynes manual says to rotate the crank clockwise until the cam timing mark is at the 1 O'clock mark, the crank mark should be at the 3 O'clock , then count the number of pins, it should be 15. Mine is 20. I believe I have it correct, but just want to verify with someone that has worked on these before. Thanks.......RR
My problem, the Haynes manual says to rotate the crank clockwise until the cam timing mark is at the 1 O'clock mark, the crank mark should be at the 3 O'clock , then count the number of pins, it should be 15. Mine is 20. I believe I have it correct, but just want to verify with someone that has worked on these before. Thanks.......RR
I will say when I did this with my jeep I just lined up the two dots and all was good.
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Huntsville, Tn
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Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
What jack are people using if they have a 6" lift? Gunna buy a jack to put in jeep in case if a flat.
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Location: Frederick, MD
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Northern NJ
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: IL6
Whats 1st?
Like I said this is my 1st jeep. Think I'm at least the 3rd owner. 147k miles. If I'm gonna give the poor beast an initial physical, what should I be looking at first? Oil is changed, & the last owner sez it has new brakes, tires, torque converter, and hatch struts. I think the rear springs may be sagging as they measure about 15" from hub center to fender flare, but around 17 up front.
Any info from the sages here is appreciated.
Tut
'96 Classic
Any info from the sages here is appreciated.
Tut
'96 Classic
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Congratulations on your XJ and welcome to the site! Yup thar be a saggin' rear end. About two inches too low.
First is a tuneup and ALL the fluids. I see you're in NJ... how much rust is there?
First is a tuneup and ALL the fluids. I see you're in NJ... how much rust is there?
I have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport with an inline 6 , I replaced the exhaust manifold with a stainless steel exhaust manifold, had to take off the intake move the power steering pump, and the first time I tried to start it the injectors leaked and then we tightened them up and it's like they are spraying too much fuel, because when I start it up it revs to 5000 rpms and I have to shut it off before it blows up, the throttle isn't stuck and we reset the ecu and no luck, do you have any ideas on what it is?
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 1999 jeep cherokee sport with an inline 6 , I replaced the exhaust manifold with a stainless steel exhaust manifold, had to take off the intake move the power steering pump, and the first time I tried to start it the injectors leaked and then we tightened them up and it's like they are spraying too much fuel, because when I start it up it revs to 5000 rpms and I have to shut it off before it blows up, the throttle isn't stuck and we reset the ecu and no luck, do you have any ideas on what it is?
Check your torque specs and that everything is lined up correctly. What brand header is it?
Are the injectors still leaking? If you took them out and then back in, you probably tore the o rings up.
New owe jeep questions.
She was shipped from Puerto Rico by a used car dealer, bought by a woman three weeks ago at 3690 then realized her son can't afford the gas with his two hour commute. So she sold it to me for 2400 dollars. It has 84,000 miles, was involved in two accidents while in Puerto Rico, and had several cosmetic problems. Glovebox fell to floor(fixed), busted cooling fan cover(fixed), air intake assembly was damaged in accident I'm assuming so they duct taped a cone filter to the end of the existing hose running from the engine(replaced with stock intake assembly today).
According to the carfax, it sat for a year before being shipped to jersey. What steps should I take to prepare a car that sat for regular use? The engine and transmission seem to work beautifully, but I'd rather do a little work to ensure it stays that way rather than deal with bad oil or fluid in some location later on.
The steering is loose when it comes to minor adjustments. Once I turn the wheel 1/4 of the way, it seems to respond accordingly. But there's a lot of give from the straight position to that smooth spot. Suggestions there would be awesome.
Any suggestions are welcome. I plan on adding some seaafoam to the tank and possibly even performing a hard start using the sea foam. Other than that, I'd appreciate your opinions.
According to the carfax, it sat for a year before being shipped to jersey. What steps should I take to prepare a car that sat for regular use? The engine and transmission seem to work beautifully, but I'd rather do a little work to ensure it stays that way rather than deal with bad oil or fluid in some location later on.
The steering is loose when it comes to minor adjustments. Once I turn the wheel 1/4 of the way, it seems to respond accordingly. But there's a lot of give from the straight position to that smooth spot. Suggestions there would be awesome.
Any suggestions are welcome. I plan on adding some seaafoam to the tank and possibly even performing a hard start using the sea foam. Other than that, I'd appreciate your opinions.
Something isn't lined up or tightened down the whole way so you have a leak causing your excessive high idle. Check your torque specs and that everything is lined up correctly. What brand header is it? Are the injectors still leaking? If you took them out and then back in, you probably tore the o rings up.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My best guess is that when you put the intake in you did not get the dowel pins properly in the holes of the intake. Causing the intake to not be lined up correctly and allowing lots of air in.
I did this the first time I installed the new APN exhaust manifold. I ended up breaking off one of the intake tabs that was supposed to line up on the pin.
A little JB Weld and a bit more care and double checking I was able to get it all lined up and things ran as expected.
Not being able to get one of the bolts in is a huge hint that something is not lined up correctly. once all is in the right place all of the bolts will go in.
I did this the first time I installed the new APN exhaust manifold. I ended up breaking off one of the intake tabs that was supposed to line up on the pin.
A little JB Weld and a bit more care and double checking I was able to get it all lined up and things ran as expected.
Not being able to get one of the bolts in is a huge hint that something is not lined up correctly. once all is in the right place all of the bolts will go in.