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#4021
help please...
I have a 88 cherokee 6 cyl. 4.0. and it recently while driving it just stopped running. all the electrical componets stayed on but the motor just shut off and wouldnt start again. so i checked the fuel pump thinking it wasn't pushing fuel through and it was working fine i just replaced it a few months ago. so then i checked the relays. they were fine also. then randomly after a little prayer it started. but it was running rough. almost as not all cylinders were firing. i did a couple basic checks and it started to run smoothly. then i noticed a small fuel leak coming out of the fuel pressure regulator coming out on the fuel line part. just as a precaution last night i changed the oil and flushed the cooling. and it started running good. so today i replaced the pressure regulator and the o rings and once i did that no leak but it was running horribly acting like it was missing during idle and no power when stepping on the gas and it was wanting to stall out again during driving. so my question is where should i start next to solving the problem i got new spark plugs but it didnt seem to help the problem after putting them on. any suggestions on what else could be the problem and maybe how i can fix it.
#4022
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chehalis, WA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
what all is involved in chopping front springs? I've got slightly saggy rear leafs on my 91 2dr and I want it to sit about level, so when I get new leafs it will have a good stance. do I need anything more than just standard hand tools and a cutoff wheel? or do I need spring compressors too?
#4023
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mercer County, NJ
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I have a 88 cherokee 6 cyl. 4.0. and it recently while driving it just stopped running. all the electrical componets stayed on but the motor just shut off and wouldnt start again. so i checked the fuel pump thinking it wasn't pushing fuel through and it was working fine i just replaced it a few months ago. so then i checked the relays. they were fine also. then randomly after a little prayer it started. but it was running rough. almost as not all cylinders were firing. i did a couple basic checks and it started to run smoothly. then i noticed a small fuel leak coming out of the fuel pressure regulator coming out on the fuel line part. just as a precaution last night i changed the oil and flushed the cooling. and it started running good. so today i replaced the pressure regulator and the o rings and once i did that no leak but it was running horribly acting like it was missing during idle and no power when stepping on the gas and it was wanting to stall out again during driving. so my question is where should i start next to solving the problem i got new spark plugs but it didnt seem to help the problem after putting them on. any suggestions on what else could be the problem and maybe how i can fix it.
Last edited by sycoglitch; 03-28-2011 at 08:15 AM.
#4024
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
#4025
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
what all is involved in chopping front springs? I've got slightly saggy rear leafs on my 91 2dr and I want it to sit about level, so when I get new leafs it will have a good stance. do I need anything more than just standard hand tools and a cutoff wheel? or do I need spring compressors too?
Fix your sagging rear problem (new leafs / add-a-leaf / or shackles)
#4027
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by dukie564
DO NOT even consider doing this. It severely weakens the spring. Also if you're at stock ride height you'll be hitting the bump stops all the time
Fix your sagging rear problem (new leafs / add-a-leaf / or shackles)
#4028
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: havelock, nc
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Ok kind of a no brainer question but just makin sure...Im thinkin bout goin with some 2" spacer and that shackles relocation kit...I want bout two more inches on top of my three....so all I would need for that is some longer brake lines and new shocks right?
#4029
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western Michigan
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
Maybe if you don't like the heigth of your rig maybe you could sell it and get one of those small pickup's. They sit lower and you could throw a topper on it and still have covered storage. Not trying to say one thing or another, I just know the small pickups sit lower than the cherokee's. My 2 copper's.
#4030
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chehalis, WA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by wildspear
Maybe if you don't like the heigth of your rig maybe you could sell it and get one of those small pickup's. They sit lower and you could throw a topper on it and still have covered storage. Not trying to say one thing or another, I just know the small pickups sit lower than the cherokee's. My 2 copper's.
#4031
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Western Michigan
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l inline 6
easy answer to that, no money for something else, I like my Cherokee, and lowering it fits the build I wanna do, going for a Cherokee RT kinda build. cutting springs has been used for decades is hot rodding with great success, as long as you don't try to slam your vehicle by cutting, I'm talking loosing like an inch in the front, then when I get some OEM rear leaves it will have a good stance
#4032
☠ CF Sheriff ☠
in the front, a cheap way to lower it is to use ZJ rear coils. they net roughly 2.5" of drop. you'll need to swap front shocks to something proper for the application, and it will ride stiffer with the ZJ coils. cutting down coils is not advised (will make your ride REALLY bouncy) and is more of a butch back-woods job. obviously a lowered vehicle doesn't qualify as backwoods, so let's keep rednecking out of this.
You'll run into other problems too however. I see you have a 4x4 XJ, which means you don't have much clearance in the front to do this. The front axle will come in contact with the under carriage and the front driveshaft may not have enough room to move.
You'll run into other problems too however. I see you have a 4x4 XJ, which means you don't have much clearance in the front to do this. The front axle will come in contact with the under carriage and the front driveshaft may not have enough room to move.
#4033
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chehalis, WA
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by dukie564
in the front, a cheap way to lower it is to use ZJ rear coils. they net roughly 2.5" of drop. you'll need to swap front shocks to something proper for the application, and it will ride stiffer with the ZJ coils. cutting down coils is not advised (will make your ride REALLY bouncy) and is more of a butch back-woods job. obviously a lowered vehicle doesn't qualify as backwoods, so let's keep rednecking out of this.
You'll run into other problems too however. I see you have a 4x4 XJ, which means you don't have much clearance in the front to do this. The front axle will come in contact with the under carriage and the front driveshaft may not have enough room to move.
You'll run into other problems too however. I see you have a 4x4 XJ, which means you don't have much clearance in the front to do this. The front axle will come in contact with the under carriage and the front driveshaft may not have enough room to move.
#4034
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mackeyville, Pa.
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I realize you're new to the forum so i'm going to answer your questions and also give you some advice.
First off, Welcome to Cherokee Forum!
Seeing as you live in Lancaster, PA and own a vehicle I'm going to assume you at least completed the 8th grade and know how to write a basic paper, know sentence structure, grammar, etc.
Next time, try to use somewhat proper punctuation and sentence structure. Here's why; It will help us(your fellow CF members) to understand the problems and/or questions you have and address them as such. It'll also help your questions get answered that much quicker because they're easier to understand.
That being said:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...t=steering+box
It is completely bolt-on and an upgrade due to a larger 3.5" diameter piston. You can even use the same pitman arm.
You need the box out of a 99 4x4 dodge durango.
You could probably find one in a JY for around $50, rebuilt it would probably be about $200.
Installing a JY unit would be as simple as un-bolting the power steering lines, the steering shaft and the bolts holding the box to the frame.
First off, Welcome to Cherokee Forum!
Seeing as you live in Lancaster, PA and own a vehicle I'm going to assume you at least completed the 8th grade and know how to write a basic paper, know sentence structure, grammar, etc.
Next time, try to use somewhat proper punctuation and sentence structure. Here's why; It will help us(your fellow CF members) to understand the problems and/or questions you have and address them as such. It'll also help your questions get answered that much quicker because they're easier to understand.
That being said:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...t=steering+box
It is completely bolt-on and an upgrade due to a larger 3.5" diameter piston. You can even use the same pitman arm.
You need the box out of a 99 4x4 dodge durango.
You could probably find one in a JY for around $50, rebuilt it would probably be about $200.
Installing a JY unit would be as simple as un-bolting the power steering lines, the steering shaft and the bolts holding the box to the frame.
And I always thought this site was a cool place !!!
#4035
CF Veteran
1996 cherokee 4.0, stock. driving and overheated and shut down before being able to pull over. researched on this forum and found water pouring out front of engine=water pump. installed new water pump and t-stat. engine wont start but is getting spark. no water in oil and no oil in water. backfired and sent oil dipstick ten ft away. please help. bought jeep three weeks ago and dont know history.