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Old 02-26-2014, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CherokeePurp
I think I can swing that.
That jeepz websites server is too busy. It says to try it later.
What would I keep using exactly? The whole lift or the sway bar? I've got a lot to learn.
And whats the deal with this track bar situation?
That's if you keep using the sway bar. I recommend it, especially if you daily drive your Jeep.

Check my last edit if you missed it.

The track bar centers your front axle from left to right. While you can physically reconnect your stock track bar at that height, it's a very bad idea. Your axle will be pulled far to the left, and you won't have good steering or tracking.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
That's if you keep using the sway bar. I recommend it, especially if you daily drive your Jeep.

Check my last edit if you missed it.

The track bar centers your front axle from left to right. While you can physically reconnect your stock track bar at that height, it's a very bad idea. Your axle will be pulled far to the left, and you won't have good steering or tracking.
Well good steering is definitely part of my issues right now. I think I need new u-joints in both sides of the front and maybe the drive shaft as well. How much would a track bar and the necessary parts run me? I got a total budget of $800 to work with which I still have to buy the drive shaft u joint and the drivers side as well. Also any parts coinciding with that project.
And this is my daily driver so I will be keeping my sway bar which I'll need new bushings for.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CherokeePurp
How would I know whether to choose if I have a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle? Also how would I benefit from adding sway bar disconnects for $99?
Here's a chart for the rear axle. A C8.25 has a flat bottom, while the Dana 35 has a rounded bottom. And as far as the sway bar goes, by disconnecting your sway bar, the vehicle will allow the axle to articulate more, granting more flex. While driving, the sway bar reduced body roll, making it safer to drive. Quick disconnects allow you to keep them connected on the road, and disconnected off the road. However, many jeepers, myself included, like driving with the sway bar off better, it's a little smoother, and frees up the vehicles movements. Don't buy new discos for $100! Either make your own set for $15, or buy a used pair off of someone else like I did! Save your money for something like extended brake lines because they're probably next on the list of things that will limit flex. Here's one method, for DIY discos, there are many to choose from just google it! http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ho...ctures-437021/
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Salad, Kuzi said he tried that.


lol

Also no, Kuzican said "it looks good" not "I cleaned it and tested it". Battery terminals that cause no starts often "look good"
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by salad


lol

Also no, Kuzican said "it looks good" not "I cleaned it and tested it". Battery terminals that cause no starts often "look good"
That comment was in regards to his PCM swap.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
That comment was in regards to his PCM swap.
Ah. Fine then, be that way!
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:39 PM
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Default Dash Fuses blowin when jeep in 1-2

I've got a new head unit in my Cherokee 2000 sport 4x4 4.0 and whenever it is shifted into 1-2 the dash (lights, radio, shifter light up, and tail lights) stop working. no power nuthin. the fuse that blows is #17,(15 amp fuse). there are 4 wires nutted together from the radio into one, and its the only way all those things i mentioned will run, if those four wires are in one nut. Help
and yeah i know I'm an idiot for connecting those wires but I'm no electrician. Thx
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:46 PM
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So I just went and checked I do have the C8.25 differential. How is that compared to the D35?
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:49 PM
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Very gooder much
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CherokeePurp
So I just went and checked I do have the C8.25 differential. How is that compared to the D35?
Waymo. Waymo betta.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Very gooder much


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Old 02-26-2014, 09:53 PM
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:55 PM
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I can dig that.
Another question... what else should I buy for fixing both front u-joints and the drive shaft u-joint other than the joints themselves? I've got some real chunking going on when im driving at lower spends from roughly 15-25mph.
Could it be anything else other than the joints causing that? Like bearings or something along those lines?
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
.
Originally Posted by mjcxking
.
ROFL

Originally Posted by CherokeePurp
I can dig that.
Another question... what else should I buy for fixing both front u-joints and the drive shaft u-joint other than the joints themselves? I've got some real chunking going on when im driving at lower spends from roughly 15-25mph.
Could it be anything else other than the joints causing that? Like bearings or something along those lines?
Yep, toast bushings on leaf springs and shocks, transmission mount, brakes too. It's important to crawl underneath and find out what's loose.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:22 PM
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QUick question guys. When i come around corners sometimes, at normal speed, my jeep starts to die and lose power. Throttle stops working for a few seconds, and revs drop way down. Weird thing is only happens really when i make a left turn. Any answers, anybody? IS this a big issue? My guess is something with a fuel delivery or something somewhere in the fuel system
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