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Old 03-05-2014, 11:01 PM
  #40621  
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Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99
I'll be on 33's, no locker, and I'm generally pretty easy on my jeep. I'm probably going to pick it up
I'd go ahead and do it for that price. I wouldn't beat on it, but the matching gears will allow you to use 4WD if you need it, and you'll be able to resell it for at least what you're paying.
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:02 PM
  #40622  
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I'll be on 33's, no locker, and I'm generally pretty easy on my jeep. I'm probably going to pick it up
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:38 PM
  #40623  
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Originally Posted by canada_man
Can you use an alternator from a 6cyl (any year xj) with a 1998 4cyl xj?
No. Any 1990 or older is not compatible. There may be a split at 1996 or 1997 as well. I'm not 100% on this but '91-'96 may work, so '97+ would be a sure bet.

Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99
I'll be on 33's, no locker, and I'm generally pretty easy on my jeep. I'm probably going to pick it up
TJ owners have no problems running 35s on 'em. You'll be okay. HP is stronger and has better clearance, 33s and no locker I wouldn't worry.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:44 AM
  #40624  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Bore diameter never changed....
The Felpro gaskets (early/late) have different ID's. One is 4.000 and the other is 3.999.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:48 AM
  #40625  
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Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99
I'll be on 33's, no locker, and I'm generally pretty easy on my jeep. I'm probably going to pick it up
Go for it. You should be fine assuming it's in decent condition.
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:40 AM
  #40626  
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Originally Posted by AMXJ
The Felpro gaskets (early/late) have different ID's. One is 4.000 and the other is 3.999.
That is enough of a difference to matter. It does not seem like much but when it come to clearance on an engine, that is pretty significant.
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:23 AM
  #40627  
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Originally Posted by Roadrunnr72
2000 XJ 4.0. Looking for the exhaust manifold to flange hardware. Rockauto has some listed, but they are studs that press into the manifold. The ones that came out were bolts and nuts, with the nuts having a flange or tang on the nut. You can start the bolt, and the tang keeps the nut from spinning when tightening. The one from Rockauto,'and the only style I can find when looking by application are the press in studs, and they are way to big to fit into the manifold. Any one have any idea where to get them, or is it going to be a stealership only item........thanks.....RR
Originally Posted by jeep3200
I think you want the Dorman kit 03408. This will give you the replacement studs and bolts. It does not have the big washers, you will need to reuse the ones that came off.
Maybe I didn't explain this correctly, I need the bolts for the manifold to down pipe. 4 bolts and nuts. The one listed, the Dorman 3408, is the manifold to head set. Thanks,.......RR
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:27 AM
  #40628  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
So my fiancee's WJ (140k miles) was having backfiring (brother in law told me) and I was checking it out, I had a vacuum gauge on and the needle was pointing to 15 while idling and when I pushed on the throttle, it went up 20-22 during acceleration. But when I let it go, it went back to 15-17 I tried to adjust the timing by turning the thingy where the distributor was supposed to be. And finally got it to be at 22 at idle, but it drops down to 13-18 while revving a and would stall out. So far, the plugs and all sensors (except for those on throttle body) are replaced. Would there be something wrong with the valve train or something else?
beep
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:37 AM
  #40629  
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Originally Posted by Houston Kid
That is enough of a difference to matter. It does not seem like much but when it come to clearance on an engine, that is pretty significant.
On a head gasket? You gotta be kidding.

Look at the clearances of internal engine parts from a FSM.......
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:11 PM
  #40630  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
On a head gasket? You gotta be kidding.

Look at the clearances of internal engine parts from a FSM.......
Ok. Your right. The folks a Felpro and the engineers that designed the 4.0 did not think much of it so they made 2 different gaskets just because. We are talking bore diameter so what the heck if the gasket it over hangs into the cylinder by .001. No big deal. Just run it.

Last edited by Houston Kid; 03-06-2014 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:20 PM
  #40631  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
So my fiancee's WJ (140k miles) was having backfiring (brother in law told me) and I was checking it out, I had a vacuum gauge on and the needle was pointing to 15 while idling and when I pushed on the throttle, it went up 20-22 during acceleration. But when I let it go, it went back to 15-17 I tried to adjust the timing by turning the thingy where the distributor was supposed to be. And finally got it to be at 22 at idle, but it drops down to 13-18 while revving a and would stall out. So far, the plugs and all sensors (except for those on throttle body) are replaced. Would there be something wrong with the valve train or something else?
Might have to post in 'ask the technical question thread'.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:26 PM
  #40632  
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Would I have to replace the manifold gasket if I'm putting in new intake manifold?
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:29 PM
  #40633  
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I replaced it just to be sure. I think they squeeze a bit and conform.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:31 PM
  #40634  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Would I have to replace the manifold gasket if I'm putting in new intake manifold?
Not necessarily. How old is the old one, the condition, etc? If part of it comes off with the manifold then yes. If not, likely no. I have reinstalled the intake manifold without replacing the old gasket but it appeared to be in good condition. As long as it seals then you are ok.

It can be a pain in the rear to pull the header and reinstal to put a new gasket on but you would already be halfway there so why not? Like stated earlier, a new gasket crushes a bit to make a better seal.

Last edited by Houston Kid; 03-06-2014 at 12:36 PM.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:35 PM
  #40635  
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I'm not upgrading the manifold. I just got another one and painted it, because the one on it got a crack.

The manifold and gasket appear to be original, and is nearly 140k miles now

Is there any gasket sealants I can use to help? I know it's probably a moot point because of the extreme heat from the header.
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