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XJ Ask the Question Thread
03-21-2014, 10:59 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-21-2014, 11:18 AM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Jerry didn't disagree with you. The OP asked about a bumper w/tire carrier. The Knucklebone isn't exactly what he asked for, and Jerry's post was referencing that difference. It's certainly a viable option if OP doesn't need a bumper.
03-21-2014, 11:33 AM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So, wanna get an opinion from you guys. I hear torque converter problems in AW4s are extremely rare.
96 XJ, 4.0. 2wd. Transmission fluid level and color are both fine. Using Dex/Merc fluid.
Having a strange issue when coasting down-hill in drive, as well as when driving and I suddenly let off of the gas.
When coasting down hill: The RPMs drop to around 1k nearly instantly when I let off the gas (normal operation of TC, right?) However, they slowly climb back up to 1500 (within 3-4 seconds) and then instantly drop to 1k again. I can feel it happen as well. It feels like it's shifting gears or maybe the TC is locking/unlocking.
When I let off of the gas it feels much harsher than it should be. This -just- started happening, and I have no idea why...
So, questions: Does it sound like I have a transmission issue? Sensor possibly? TPS checks out fine. TB kickdown cable is adjusted properly.
This summer, I'm going to convert to 4wd. Anyone think it's worth it to put in a remanufactured/JY torque converter while I'm at it, or will I be fine using my own? I'm leaning towards re-man'd, but from what I've read TC issues are rare... and if I can save $100 I'm fine with that.
96 XJ, 4.0. 2wd. Transmission fluid level and color are both fine. Using Dex/Merc fluid.
Having a strange issue when coasting down-hill in drive, as well as when driving and I suddenly let off of the gas.
When coasting down hill: The RPMs drop to around 1k nearly instantly when I let off the gas (normal operation of TC, right?) However, they slowly climb back up to 1500 (within 3-4 seconds) and then instantly drop to 1k again. I can feel it happen as well. It feels like it's shifting gears or maybe the TC is locking/unlocking.
When I let off of the gas it feels much harsher than it should be. This -just- started happening, and I have no idea why...
So, questions: Does it sound like I have a transmission issue? Sensor possibly? TPS checks out fine. TB kickdown cable is adjusted properly.
This summer, I'm going to convert to 4wd. Anyone think it's worth it to put in a remanufactured/JY torque converter while I'm at it, or will I be fine using my own? I'm leaning towards re-man'd, but from what I've read TC issues are rare... and if I can save $100 I'm fine with that.
Last edited by tssguy123; 03-21-2014 at 11:38 AM.
03-21-2014, 12:03 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
All of the ATF+ fluids are specifically formulated for transmissions with lockup converters, they have friction modifiers to help prevent lockup clutch chatter.
As the OD transmissions were introduced, the ATF+ fluids were improved (+2, +3, +4) for better lubrication of the OD gears.
Dexron was the recommended fluid for non-lockup Torqueflites and is probably still the best choice for them; type F is perfectly OK to use in a non-lockup TF where it will make the shifts slightly firmer at the expense of some lubricating properties.
As the OD transmissions were introduced, the ATF+ fluids were improved (+2, +3, +4) for better lubrication of the OD gears.
Dexron was the recommended fluid for non-lockup Torqueflites and is probably still the best choice for them; type F is perfectly OK to use in a non-lockup TF where it will make the shifts slightly firmer at the expense of some lubricating properties.
03-21-2014, 12:59 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
So, wanna get an opinion from you guys. I hear torque converter problems in AW4s are extremely rare.
96 XJ, 4.0. 2wd. Transmission fluid level and color are both fine. Using Dex/Merc fluid.
Having a strange issue when coasting down-hill in drive, as well as when driving and I suddenly let off of the gas.
When coasting down hill: The RPMs drop to around 1k nearly instantly when I let off the gas (normal operation of TC, right?) However, they slowly climb back up to 1500 (within 3-4 seconds) and then instantly drop to 1k again. I can feel it happen as well. It feels like it's shifting gears or maybe the TC is locking/unlocking.
When I let off of the gas it feels much harsher than it should be. This -just- started happening, and I have no idea why...
So, questions: Does it sound like I have a transmission issue? Sensor possibly? TPS checks out fine. TB kickdown cable is adjusted properly.
This summer, I'm going to convert to 4wd. Anyone think it's worth it to put in a remanufactured/JY torque converter while I'm at it, or will I be fine using my own? I'm leaning towards re-man'd, but from what I've read TC issues are rare... and if I can save $100 I'm fine with that.
96 XJ, 4.0. 2wd. Transmission fluid level and color are both fine. Using Dex/Merc fluid.
Having a strange issue when coasting down-hill in drive, as well as when driving and I suddenly let off of the gas.
When coasting down hill: The RPMs drop to around 1k nearly instantly when I let off the gas (normal operation of TC, right?) However, they slowly climb back up to 1500 (within 3-4 seconds) and then instantly drop to 1k again. I can feel it happen as well. It feels like it's shifting gears or maybe the TC is locking/unlocking.
When I let off of the gas it feels much harsher than it should be. This -just- started happening, and I have no idea why...
So, questions: Does it sound like I have a transmission issue? Sensor possibly? TPS checks out fine. TB kickdown cable is adjusted properly.
This summer, I'm going to convert to 4wd. Anyone think it's worth it to put in a remanufactured/JY torque converter while I'm at it, or will I be fine using my own? I'm leaning towards re-man'd, but from what I've read TC issues are rare... and if I can save $100 I'm fine with that.
No idea. Why wouldn't you just run ATF+4 in your 30/32RH? Non-lockup TorqueFlites are rather old.
03-21-2014, 01:23 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-21-2014, 02:28 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Everything I'm finding says ATF+4 in the 32RH, but I found the above information interesting. If it's true, it really simplifies the question of which fluid to use in any vehicle.
03-21-2014, 02:59 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I'd suggest that maybe the application- and model-specific manufacturer instructions are going to be more reliable than an Internet quote that generalizes a range of slushboxes produced from the mid 1950s to early 2000s...
03-21-2014, 03:16 PM
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Precisely why I was looking for 32RH info and wanted to check the accuracy of that quote before relying on it.
03-21-2014, 04:16 PM
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: INLINE 6
i got a stubby front bumper i'm trying to get swapped on and i need to replace steering box bolts with some longer grade 8. I believe dimensions of stock are 7/16 and 4" long..........correct? and do i need to worry about the thread of the new ones? cant' find if the box has a threaded hole or a sleeve for new bolt and i'll use new nut on inside of frame.
thanks!
thanks!
03-21-2014, 08:05 PM
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
03-21-2014, 08:12 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
2000 XJ, 4.0. Rebuilding the engine, will have it finished tomorrow, if all goes well. Been working on it, in my spare time for quite a while. Anyway, went to put the new oil pump in. The tube from the old pump is a very tight fit, finally got it removed, now my concern, it fits "loose" in the new pump. Not sure what brand oil pump, but it came with the engine kit. Any thoughts? A little RTV around the tube? Try and fit an O-ring on the tube and see if it'll press tight against the pump? I'm a little worried that I'll have suction problems will the pump, sucking air. Thought about pulling the old pump apart and giving it a good cleaning and inspection, then reusing it. I did have a broken piston skirt, but no small metal in the pan, just the 2 pieces that broke off the skirt. Thanks.....RR
03-21-2014, 11:14 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
TRANSMISSION APPLICATION
Chrysler 30RH and 32RH automatic transmissions are used in XJ/YJ models. Both are 3-speed automatic transmissions with a gear-type oil pump, two clutches and bands and a planetary gear system (Fig. 1).
The 30RH is used in XJ/YJ models with a 2.5L engine. The 32RH is used in YJ models with a 4.0L engine.
TORQUE CONVERTER
A three element, torque converter is used for all applications. The converter consists of an impeller, stator, and turbine.
The converter used with 30RH/32RH transmissions has a converter clutch. The clutch is engaged by an electrical solenoid and mechanical module on the valve body. The solenoid is operated by the powertrain control module.
The torque converter is a welded assembly and is not a repairable component. The converter is serviced as an assembly.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
The recommended and preferred fluid for 30RH/32RH transmissions is Mopar ATF Plus, Type 7176.
Dexron II is not really recommended and should only be used when ATF Plus is not available.
Chrysler 30RH and 32RH automatic transmissions are used in XJ/YJ models. Both are 3-speed automatic transmissions with a gear-type oil pump, two clutches and bands and a planetary gear system (Fig. 1).
The 30RH is used in XJ/YJ models with a 2.5L engine. The 32RH is used in YJ models with a 4.0L engine.
TORQUE CONVERTER
A three element, torque converter is used for all applications. The converter consists of an impeller, stator, and turbine.
The converter used with 30RH/32RH transmissions has a converter clutch. The clutch is engaged by an electrical solenoid and mechanical module on the valve body. The solenoid is operated by the powertrain control module.
The torque converter is a welded assembly and is not a repairable component. The converter is serviced as an assembly.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
The recommended and preferred fluid for 30RH/32RH transmissions is Mopar ATF Plus, Type 7176.
Dexron II is not really recommended and should only be used when ATF Plus is not available.
30RH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
The 30RH automatic transmission is used with the 2.5L engine (Fig. 1). The 30RH is a three speed transmissions with a lock-up clutch in the torque converter. The torque converter clutch is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The torque converter clutch is hydraulically applied and is released when fluid is vented from the hydraulic circuit by the torque converter control (TCC) solenoid on the valve body. The torque converter clutch engages in third gear when the vehicle is cruising on a level plane after the vehicle has warmed up. The torque converter clutch will disengage when the vehicle begins to go uphill or the accelerator is applied. The torque converter clutch feature increases fuel economy and reduces the transmission fluid temperature. The 30RH transmission is cooled by an integral fluid cooler inside the radiator.
TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION
Transmission identification numbers are stamped on the left side of the case just above the oil pan gasket surface (Fig. 2). Refer to this information when ordering replacement parts.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
Mopar ATF Plus 3, Type 7176 automatic transmission fluid is the recommended fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions.
Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper fluid.
The 30RH automatic transmission is used with the 2.5L engine (Fig. 1). The 30RH is a three speed transmissions with a lock-up clutch in the torque converter. The torque converter clutch is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The torque converter clutch is hydraulically applied and is released when fluid is vented from the hydraulic circuit by the torque converter control (TCC) solenoid on the valve body. The torque converter clutch engages in third gear when the vehicle is cruising on a level plane after the vehicle has warmed up. The torque converter clutch will disengage when the vehicle begins to go uphill or the accelerator is applied. The torque converter clutch feature increases fuel economy and reduces the transmission fluid temperature. The 30RH transmission is cooled by an integral fluid cooler inside the radiator.
TRANSMISSION IDENTIFICATION
Transmission identification numbers are stamped on the left side of the case just above the oil pan gasket surface (Fig. 2). Refer to this information when ordering replacement parts.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
Mopar ATF Plus 3, Type 7176 automatic transmission fluid is the recommended fluid for Chrysler automatic transmissions.
Dexron II fluid IS NOT recommended. Clutch chatter can result from the use of improper fluid.
- Dexron II may have been an old spec for non-lockup TorqueFlites.
- Dexron II was specified as okay in 1995 for renamed TFs with lockups, but engineers didn't think it was wise.
- By 1999 the Chrysler noticed a high failure rate with Dexron II so forbade its use entirely. (Speculation of course - unlike specifying ATF+4 for AW4s, the 30RH/32RH were all still under warranty and the dealers were carrying Dex II/III for AW4s anyway...)
So I don't think running GM fluid in your Chrysler transmission is a good idea
Last edited by salad; 03-21-2014 at 11:20 PM.
03-21-2014, 11:38 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
Fuel tank skid plate
I recently picked up this fuel tank skid plate for my 1998 Cherokee XJ Classic. The seller said it came from his '98 so we figured it would be a direct bolt on. That's not the case and I'm wondering if he was mistaken. Can anyone verify from these photos if this will fit a '98 XJ? If it will, what is the trick to getting it installed? I'm stumped! Thanks.