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Old 03-31-2014, 03:55 PM
  #41371  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I bought a Ready-Rad from AA for the Comanche. It was missing fittings. I returned it and got one from CarQuest, and it had all the fittings brazed into it. That's my source for radiators from now on. The one I got for my Wrangler is holding up fine, too.
I have one fron advance autos. Can't remember the name but it got put in on January 1st this year and so far so good.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:57 PM
  #41372  
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So while changing my valve cover gasket, I notice that the first 2 lifter/ rockers(?) don't have a lot of oil on them but all the others do. Is this bad? I do hear some ticking when it's running
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
So while changing my valve cover gasket, I notice that the first 2 lifter/ rockers(?) don't have a lot of oil on them but all the others do. Is this bad? I do hear some ticking when it's running
Rockers look fine to me (lifters ride on the camshaft and are located in the block). If you have concerns you can check for flow before making any decisions. Check out YouTube, Eric The Car Guy has a pretty good video on doing just this on a Jeep 4.0L.
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:29 PM
  #41374  
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Thank you salad! My dummy gauge is usually around 50ish driving and down below 40 at idle once it's warmed up. Also, do you know where the cowl drains are located?
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:38 PM
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Oil pressure won't show you if a lifter is failed or a pushrod is clogged.

As far as I know the cowl drains are just holes cut in the corner and it dribbles down the firewall
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
Thank you salad! My dummy gauge is usually around 50ish driving and down below 40 at idle once it's warmed up. Also, do you know where the cowl drains are located?
Cowl drains are located at each end of the cowl. Basically directly under the antenna on the passenger side maybe and 1" or 2 back and same spot on the drivers side.

Dummy gauge means nothing. Mine sits around 70 all the time no matter what. But checks great with a mechanical gauge.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:13 PM
  #41377  
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im having a small issue with figuring out how to get my blower motor working again, resistor and blower motor both replaced, no fuse blown. door opens for ac when i switch it over and heat does come out when i start driving, just trying to figure out which electrical connections to replace as i dont want to do too much tearing apart under the dash and behind the firewall.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:29 PM
  #41378  
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If my blinkers don't blink when i signal = bad flasher relay?
Arrows don't light up in my cluster and lights on exterior don't flash. Seems simple enough to me, just making sure. Also does anyone have a diagram of where i could find said relay? Lol
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks
If my blinkers don't blink when i signal = bad flasher relay?
Arrows don't light up in my cluster and lights on exterior don't flash. Seems simple enough to me, just making sure. Also does anyone have a diagram of where i could find said relay? Lol
That or the multifunction switch
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

That or the multifunction switch
where is that? Guessing inside the blinker handle? Wild guess.....ha
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FruitSnacks

where is that? Guessing inside the blinker handle? Wild guess.....ha
It is the blinker handle lol. Specifically, it's where it meets the steering column. Contacts can go bad there for the turn signals. Also check fuses.
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

It is the blinker handle lol. Specifically, it's where it meets the steering column. Contacts can go bad there for the turn signals. Also check fuses.
I can't find which fuse it is, i looked up a diagram and the spot that it says it is only has one contact?
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:13 PM
  #41383  
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I got the 99 4.0 up to temperature this afternoon and then tested the coolant temp sensor ohms. I got 810. The ohms should be around 185. A 810 reading tells the computer the engine is not warm. The current reading has the computer thinking coolant temp is between 100 and 130F.

If anyone knows, how much will a bad coolant temp sensor effect gas millage?
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Old 03-31-2014, 10:27 PM
  #41384  
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Talking to a guy about a d35 solid cover and possibly some newish RC lifted shackles. My question is, my shackle angle now with my rusty's 3.5" full leaf pack is at about 70*, could be better but not awful. Will going with the 1" lift option on the shackle help or worsen my angle? I would like to get some relocater boxes one day but for now what are the thoughts with lifted shackles?
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Old 04-01-2014, 05:23 AM
  #41385  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Anyone got experience with ToughOne or Ready-Rad radiators from advance auto?
Don't waste your money. I bought an OEM (brass and copper) from a rad shop cheaper then Advance. Now I have an extra one. Had to cut part of thr metal where the lower trans line goes.
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