salad

How is your floor even present?

LanesRide

It really is an odd spot. I did just weld a patch in around the drain plug but it wasn't bad. The only other bad spot is the passenger rocker. I did the whole lift without breaking a bolt.

ITTs_Cole

Hey guys, its time. im a bit late but for those who were helping me in my endeavor with my temp sending unit, i got the broken sending unit out

But now the old unit is stuck on the bit, ironic but not my issue right now.

I installed the new one and put the original wire on the unit, drove it around and got no reading. So i tried taking some 16g wire and spliced it to fit on the unit and attached it like so:

(it was tightened all the way when i was testing)

Joy to the world i got a reading, but something seemed....off


Side note my thermostat is 180, store didn't have 195s so i just decided to use a 180, figured it'd help it stay cool in stand-still highway traffic.

So to my curiosity i tried a second gauge the previous owner had installed


Now i dont know what to believe, anybody have an thoughts on what to try?

Hayden98XJ

Yeah here's the shot of the plugs. The middle one kinda looks like an O2 sensor plug.

Here's where they come out of the harness (right beside the engine on the passenger side)

Not really the PO's fault though as we unplugged everything on the engine to take it out and have it rebuilt. I just forgot where everything goes again haha.

salad

lol well then... good job :P

The 3-pin connector is probably the oil pressure sending unit. The pin nearest your wrist in that photo (leftmost) should be +5V DC (orange wire), the rightmost pin in the photo should be a ground (brown/yellow wire). There is a slight chance it could be the camshaft position sensor which would have the middle pin as ground.

The two-pin may for the ignition coil. Alternatively if the loom is really long it may run down to the transmission's backup lamp switch (rightmost pin should be +12V with key in RUN, leftmost will feed power to the backup lamps) or the 4WD light on the transfer case if you have an NP231 (rightmost pin power from the PART-TIME light, leftmost ground).

The round 4-pin certainly looks like the upstream O2 sensor.

I'm just going off of the diagrams in my 1999 FSM so a few things may be different.

stitch702

Question about frame stiffeners. I have front and rear bumpers that came with frame tie ins. Will a full set of frame stiffeners still work or should I just order main frame stiffeners from hd? I've already pm'd them and asked in their thread but they haven't replied to me yet

Customizer1000

You will still need the front and rear sections

96XJSE2DR

Ok gurus bought a 98 Cherokee for daughter. Got a very good deal because every time you put trans in drive would shutoff. Once I paid for it and guy left parking lot where it was sitting; I crawled underneath to have a look. Found the bolts had all come out of trans (or someone didn't torque them). I was able to start jeep and it ran like a champ (only 142k miles on her) but could clearly hear starter bouncing off flexplate when cranking and knocking after running. Towed her home, bought new trans bolts lowered the trans down replaced and torqued all the bolts per FSM.


Engine turns over smooth now (no banging and knocking) however it now wont start. Scanned it and comes up with P0320 which I suspect has something to with crank pos. sensor but what puzzles me is I was able to start it without issue when the trans was missing bolts and moved slightly away from block. Also checked flexplate bolts to converter and all are tight.


Using the ohm meter test on CPS shows its ok.

stitch702

Cool thanks will do

straightsixjeep

Perhaps the wiring has snagged or kinked, inspect the wiring. p0320 is indeed the crank sensor.

96XJSE2DR

Yeah that's what I have been doing but cant find any wires hung up around trans and I was careful not to do exactly that. The trans was only away from block by about 1/8th inch or less before pushing it back up in place. CPS wires are clear. Have been looking through bundles going down right side of trans but haven't found anything.


No resistance across b&c terminals going down to sensor.


You did give me an idea though I lowered the crossmember and trans as far as it would go with jack under crossmember to get top bolts in trans; wondering if I pulled a wire somewhere? Going back to look again.


Thanks for reply

straightsixjeep

Start by verifying 5v to terminal 3 with the key on.

96XJSE2DR

Yep 5.13v

Gunmetal97

I have a feeling the answer to this is pretty obvious, but I'll ask anyway... In between the interior sun visors in my XJ (1997) there is a gray cover. Does my beloved Bernice have a tumor? What is it?

96XJSE2DR

Also did a VIP of crank sensor; bolts are tight bracket does not appear bent or out of shape. I did find a few shavings from starter gear in bottom of bell housing I vacuumed out. Is it possible there are metal shavings on sensor causing an issue? Reaching for straws.


Also the battery is low (left lights on while towing). Did try to jump from another car and with battery charger in 60amp start mode still no go.
Have cleared the code twice with scanner and unplugging battery and comes back after cranking a few times. No other codes are being reported.



Thanks for help very appreciated.