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Old 04-14-2014, 01:01 PM
  #41866  
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Hey guys, its time. im a bit late but for those who were helping me in my endeavor with my temp sending unit, i got the broken sending unit out

But now the old unit is stuck on the bit, ironic but not my issue right now.

I installed the new one and put the original wire on the unit, drove it around and got no reading. So i tried taking some 16g wire and spliced it to fit on the unit and attached it like so:

(it was tightened all the way when i was testing)

Joy to the world i got a reading, but something seemed....off


Side note my thermostat is 180, store didn't have 195s so i just decided to use a 180, figured it'd help it stay cool in stand-still highway traffic.

So to my curiosity i tried a second gauge the previous owner had installed


Now i dont know what to believe, anybody have an thoughts on what to try?
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:24 PM
  #41867  
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Not sure if this is what youre looking for, but as long as it has three bolt holes in this pattern, you should be good. If it extends further back onto the frame, then jsut check to see if it has the extra holes for bolts. The holes in the bumper should reflect those in the frame

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Old 04-14-2014, 03:39 PM
  #41868  
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Originally Posted by survailencewagon
ok, dumb question time
Yay!

Originally Posted by survailencewagon
what bumpers can I bolt on to my xj without a serious headache

there's a bunch of jeep stuff on the craigslist round here, but not much for an xj
lots y's t's cj's ... some of them are actually in my price range...
but I don't want to spend more time/money modding the bumper to fit than I would spend just ordering one, or having it fabbed
Awwwwh, that's not that dumb... None of those will work actually. All of the mounts are different and will require fab for some brackets at the minimum.
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:41 PM
  #41869  
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Decided to plan my front brakes replacement, and possible a rear drum shoe replacement. My only question is how do I figure out what brake pads/shoes to get? Never replaced brakes before so I dont know if there are different types or sizes or what.

Thanks in advance for advice!
Two different sizes are specified to XJ drums, 10" and 9" diameter. Go out and measure the width of your drum. Chances are they're 9".

Tips for doing drum brakes: Do one side at a time. Then when you can't figure out how the hell all that annoying crap goes back together, you can compare against the other side. Also don't bother trying to reuse hardware, it's very cheap to replace.
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:33 PM
  #41870  
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Originally Posted by salad
Two different sizes are specified to XJ drums, 10" and 9" diameter. Go out and measure the width of your drum. Chances are they're 9".

Tips for doing drum brakes: Do one side at a time. Then when you can't figure out how the hell all that annoying crap goes back together, you can compare against the other side. Also don't bother trying to reuse hardware, it's very cheap to replace.
Thanks! Where can I get new hardware? Also, what (size, type, material, brand) brake pads for the front are needed?
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:56 PM
  #41871  
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Thanks! Where can I get new hardware?
Same place you buy the shoes lol

Originally Posted by Joecam18
Also, what (size, type, material, brand) brake pads for the front are needed?
Only one size for the front pads. The OE material is ceramic. Generally once you get into ceramic territory brand matters less (unlike semi-metallic or El Cheapo organic). In-house brand should be fine.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
Same place you buy the shoes lol



Only one size for the front pads. The OE material is ceramic. Generally once you get into ceramic territory brand matters less (unlike semi-metallic or El Cheapo organic). In-house brand should be fine.

Thanks again. Gonna just do the front pads this time around. Mechanic buddy suggested Wagner Thermoquiets
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:33 PM
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Is it possible to take one coil and install a factory isolator at a time with keeping the other wheel on? Take the one wheel off, jack up the side with the wheel still on, let the side without the wheel slowly drop enough to take the coil out?
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Is it possible to take one coil and install a factory isolator at a time with keeping the other wheel on? Take the one wheel off, jack up the side with the wheel still on, let the side without the wheel slowly drop enough to take the coil out?
Thats sorta how installed my lift coils so i would say yes. I just let mu axle droop down on the side i was changing.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 96XJSE2DR
1.) infinite reading across B&C on sensor connector
2.) When it wouldn't fire after getting trans bolted back up I ran through gears and tried in Neutral.
3.) Date sticker was never pulled but battery looks like new. The battery held up for 3 hrs + with headlights and flashers on when towing before lights began to dim. Left it on trickle charge all night.
4.) I believe the stahl when putting it into Drive was just because when you put it in drive with trans bolts out the trans would shift backwards moving the sensor away from flexplate. You could put it in Reverse with no stahl and drive backwards. (bellhousing/sensor moved back flexplate stayed put at engine) My theory anyway
Still thinking it snagged when the trans was lowered. Try to source a new sensor and give it a try. If you get one from the parts store you can usually return it. Dealer parts are preferred but usually have no warranty and cost a lot more than other places although oem parts are typically the best quality.
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Old 04-14-2014, 06:57 PM
  #41876  
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
Check out this video from 7:00 on How-to: diagnose a P0320 (crankshaft position sensor circuit failure) - YouTube If pin 2 (ground) is good, before you check the resistance of pin 1 (signal), I can look in alldata to see if the pcm connector layout for the 4.0 is the same as the guys 2.5 in the video.

EDIT: More information http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jee...crank-sensor-1

Found the problem and it was in fact the crank position sensor but it didn't fail the flexplate ate it.
Replaced it and Jeep is running sweet!
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:06 PM
  #41877  
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Originally Posted by 96XJSE2DR
Found the problem and it was in fact the crank position sensor but it didn't fail the flexplate ate it.
Replaced it and Jeep is running sweet!
YAY! Pat yourself on the back
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:10 PM
  #41878  
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988
Thats sorta how installed my lift coils so i would say yes. I just let mu axle droop down on the side i was changing.
What did you do? I have two standard jack stands and a bottle jack, could probably get a piece of wood too but I want to put my pucks and isolators in. Maybe take both wheels off but jack one side at a time.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by straightsixjeep
YAY! Pat yourself on the back

Thanks for all you're help straightsixjeep!
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:24 PM
  #41880  
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Unbolt steering and shock on side your changing, might also help to undo your brake line mount and straighten the line out, gives you more droop as well. You might also need to unbolt your lca as it will allow more drop as well. Its what i did, and i got 4.5" coils in with no compressor
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