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Old 05-03-2014, 03:14 PM
  #42391  
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Originally Posted by studly698
Anyone know if wjs without a towing setup in the back come with holes in the chassis for mounting a towing setup.. i want to go pull a tow bar off of a wj in the junkyard and am wondering if the factory made all wjs with the ability to just bolt a tow bar to the chassis..
A hitch?
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:41 PM
  #42392  
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95 grand 4.0L 2wd.

My friend just bought this jeep from a small car dealership, the jeep looks great and runs smooth. However on his way home cruising freeway speed the check engine light came on. He called the car lot and they had him go to a mechanic they use. He Parked it for 5 min, the guy went out with a scanner and there was no check engine light on and no codes or pending codes per the technician at that shop.

He gets back in the jeep and hops back on the freeway, check engine light comes on again. It has since went away and he has only driven it short distances and the light is off.

Does anyone have an idea to start troubleshooting this issue?

I personally have done tons of work to the 2 XJs that I had/have so I know my way around them but they dont have obd1 so that's why ill ask before I start looking into things.
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:06 PM
  #42393  
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Originally Posted by Customizer1000
A hitch?
Yeah the whole hitch setup
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:02 PM
  #42394  
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Ok so i have a chrysler 8.25 in my 96. I want to count the splines and verify for 100% certainty which axle it is. Now im not sure where to even look when i crack open the case to inspect the splines on the shafts. Are they in between the spider gears? Pics would be super helpful before i do this so i know what im lookin for.
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Old 05-03-2014, 05:49 PM
  #42395  
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
95 grand 4.0L 2wd.

My friend just bought this jeep from a small car dealership, the jeep looks great and runs smooth. However on his way home cruising freeway speed the check engine light came on. He called the car lot and they had him go to a mechanic they use. He Parked it for 5 min, the guy went out with a scanner and there was no check engine light on and no codes or pending codes per the technician at that shop.

He gets back in the jeep and hops back on the freeway, check engine light comes on again. It has since went away and he has only driven it short distances and the light is off.

Does anyone have an idea to start troubleshooting this issue?

I personally have done tons of work to the 2 XJs that I had/have so I know my way around them but they dont have obd1 so that's why ill ask before I start looking into things.
It could be an EVAP problem. Check all EVAP system plastic tubing and rubber hoses/couplings in the engine bay to the EVAP canister for loose fittings and holes chafed in the tubing, including the tubing that goes from the EVAP canister to the fuel tank.

Just a guess on my part but at least it's someting to rule out.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:19 PM
  #42396  
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Hello all; this is my first post and I hope I've put it in the right place!

1993 Jeep Cherokee Country
Automatic
4.0 Liter

Issue: Will not start

Engine cranks strong
Spark at the plug
If I "prime" the engine with starter fluid it starts
After it warms up it seems to run and drive normally
Once turned off it will not restart without "priming".

I did change the following:
Fuel Filter

My choices seem to be down to the fuel pump or the computer, right?
How can I narrow it down?

Thanks much for any help!

Danglacier
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:47 PM
  #42397  
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Originally Posted by danglacer
Hello all; this is my first post and I hope I've put it in the right place!

1993 Jeep Cherokee Country
Automatic
4.0 Liter

Issue: Will not start

Engine cranks strong
Spark at the plug
If I "prime" the engine with starter fluid it starts
After it warms up it seems to run and drive normally
Once turned off it will not restart without "priming".

I did change the following:
Fuel Filter

My choices seem to be down to the fuel pump or the computer, right?
How can I narrow it down?

Thanks much for any help!

Danglacier
welcome to the forum, what happens if you push the gas pedal a bit when you try to start it?
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:10 PM
  #42398  
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Originally Posted by danglacer
Hello all; this is my first post and I hope I've put it in the right place!

1993 Jeep Cherokee Country
Automatic
4.0 Liter

Issue: Will not start

Engine cranks strong
Spark at the plug
If I "prime" the engine with starter fluid it starts
After it warms up it seems to run and drive normally
Once turned off it will not restart without "priming".

I did change the following:
Fuel Filter

My choices seem to be down to the fuel pump or the computer, right?
How can I narrow it down?

Thanks much for any help!

Danglacier
Have you tried the poor mans prime? It involves turning the on so the fuel pump kicks on and then shut the key back off when the full pump stops, repeat this a couple times and then try to start it. If this works then its most likely your fuel pump, you could either replace the pump or continue using the poor mans prime
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:22 PM
  #42399  
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Originally Posted by ThatDude114
Have you tried the poor mans prime? It involves turning the on so the fuel pump kicks on and then shut the key back off when the full pump stops, repeat this a couple times and then try to start it. If this works then its most likely your fuel pump, you could either replace the pump or continue using the poor mans prime
Dude is suggesting that it isn't pushing enough fuel to the rail. Test by turning the key to ON and back to OFF a few times before turning it to RUN. This is very common in later models and is due to a failed check valve in the fuel line.

If that's the case, it doesn't hurt anything. It's just a pain.
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Old 05-04-2014, 03:31 AM
  #42400  
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Yup one of the many problems with my jeep. I took a fuel assembly from a 99 that I have yet to put in but so far the poor mans prime does the trick
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:21 AM
  #42401  
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At what speed can I safely shift my AW4 into the 1-2 setting for engine braking? I always do it at about 22 or below, and it goes straight into 1st so I'm scared to do it faster.
If I do it whilst going faster will it shift into 2nd instead?
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:23 AM
  #42402  
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
At what speed can I safely shift my AW4 into the 1-2 setting for engine braking? I always do it at about 22 or below, and it goes straight into 1st so I'm scared to do it faster.
If I do it whilst going faster will it shift into 2nd instead?
Don't. You shouldn't engine brake with an automatic. The trans doesn't like it.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:38 AM
  #42403  
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
At what speed can I safely shift my AW4 into the 1-2 setting for engine braking? I always do it at about 22 or below, and it goes straight into 1st so I'm scared to do it faster.
If I do it whilst going faster will it shift into 2nd instead?
Engine braking should be used for technical descent or emergencies.
Brakes are much easier to replace than the tranny or clutch packs.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:00 AM
  #42404  
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Originally Posted by Brynjaminjones
At what speed can I safely shift my AW4 into the 1-2 setting for engine braking? I always do it at about 22 or below, and it goes straight into 1st so I'm scared to do it faster.
If I do it whilst going faster will it shift into 2nd instead?
Look up an AX-15 swap if you want to do that.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:36 AM
  #42405  
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Originally Posted by Xjlife101
Not sure about pinion bearings, but for the carrier use a propane torch and Heat them up, and they fall right into place and tighten as they cool
I assume you are talking about the actual bearings themselves. Heating up the new bearings with a torch won't hurt them?
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