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XJ Ask the Question Thread
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Manitoba
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Haha thought it wasn't working. So no rtv or no paper gasket? This is for a 1990 renix incase it matters
Last edited by canada_man; 05-06-2014 at 09:07 PM.
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No sealer. Just gasket.
Are you gonna index it while you're at it?
Are you gonna index it while you're at it?
So my front end has developed this new noise that sounds like peddling backward on a bike or like dragging a chain, and it's only related to speed getting louder the faster I go. There's nothing I can se that would rattle or hit the driveshaft.
Think my front axle is on the way out?
Think my front axle is on the way out?
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Location: Springfield Virginia
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Need your guys opinion. Couple weeks ago towing out a buddy he ripped my rear tow hook out. It was my fault since how I mounted it. Anyway what's the best way to fix this. I could just pound it out and try to straighten out the holes or I could get 1/8 or 3/6 steel and cut out the old piece and weld a new one in. I'm building a rear bumper this week so I still want it to be strong.
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
I wouldn't be worried about that rear crossmember being bent, just hit it with a hammer. For the hole on the uniframe rail, try to bend it out as best you can to be level and straight. What are you doing for bumper mounts?
I would use a piece of 2x4 tube inside the uniframe channel and weld in nuts to make a mount. Something like this:
About as strong as it gets.
I would use a piece of 2x4 tube inside the uniframe channel and weld in nuts to make a mount. Something like this:
About as strong as it gets.
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think like you said I can flatten this out then lay a bead on it for good measure. I'm doing the same mounts as your picture too
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Yeah, remove that undercoating and you'll be good to weld it. I always catch it on fire every time I weld to a unibody...
hi, Im Rain.. newby.. my temp gauge works at start up... then after it gets warm or close to it, it falls back to the left, goes limp and stays there.. before I go changing a bunch of stuff, I need some guidance.. any ideas plez ? thanks for any help
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for your post.
We’re here to help but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same.
In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, as applicable, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc:
Year
Model
Engine
Transmission
Transfer case
CF Veteran
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
so my lower control arm bushings on my RC 3" fixed arms are shot and im looking to either replace the bushing (My searches lead me to believe that RC doesn't offer replacements and i'd have to buy new arms.... screw that) So now im wondering if it's possible to longarms under only 3" of lift (Lift coils, not spacer). Most of the LA kits say 4" or above, but I don't want to spend all the money to go to 4" (steering, brake lines, etc.) but if im upgrading arms it might as well be long arms so im ready to go higher in the future. Anybody got any ideas?
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A 2" BB would cost about $50-$70 to do front and back. But at 2", stock 235's don't look too outta place.
But whatever you do, DONT use lift blocks on the back. Terrible things will happen if you wheel it. Or drive it. Or maybe look at it.