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Old 05-14-2014, 11:30 PM
  #42706  
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Don't know what would've changed. All I know is I've fixed multiple chronic overheating issues by burping the system.

I agreed with you and argued against it until it worked for me several times.

As for old, uncontrollable farting, you'll have to ask your doctor if that's normal at your age.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Don't know what would've changed. All I know is I've fixed multiple chronic overheating issues by burping the system.

I agreed with you and argued against it until it worked for me several times.

As for old, uncontrollable farting, you'll have to ask your doctor if that's normal at your age.
What cap was on the bottle? A cheapie chinese POS or a Volvo cap?

As for the farting, it's nothing new. been chronic my whole life.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:38 PM
  #42708  
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Comanche? New bottle, new cap, from RockAuto. I've done it on several with open cooling, too.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:39 PM
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:49 AM
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This is my story. When i filled my radiator, i moved my vehicle so the front was taller than the back, turned it on, and reved the engine a bit, and added more coolant in the radiator, through this "burp" process it made the vehicle take an additional 1/2 gallon of coolant.

My theory is yes, small air pockets should be handled by the jeeps total coolant system when it comes to air in the lines, but if someone has such a mass amount of an air pocket, you will need to step in to help the vehicle do its job

I neither agree or disagree here, i just wanted to throw my experience out there so you all can see how much i screwed it up
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Old 05-15-2014, 04:51 AM
  #42711  
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I have my new to me 1991 Cherokee 4.0. It has about 120k miles on it now, I got it with 118k. It looked like the waterpump and thermostat had been replaced. I flushed the coolant out about a week after buying it with 50/50. I took it on a few trips and it overheated, the idiot light didn't come on of course. I swapped gauge clusters with a new sending unit for the temperature. Now I can see it slowly overheat over time, as you can see in my avatar. I pulled the thermostat out today, it was a 160* failsafe in good condition, it was locked into the open position from all of the overheating. I removed the thermostat and refilled the system, its still appearing to overheat, 30 minutes of driving and already at 210*, I put some CLR to try and flush out the original metal radiator, I'll flush it out tomorrow and hopefully its just a clogged radiator.

Anybody have any advice what cured their over heating?
Had the same problem with mine, found out the block was clogged at the rear of the motor, (only after replacing the motor). Had the old one setting on thr floor and noticed a wet spot at the back of the block. pocked out the rear water jacket plug, and sure as s--t it was plugged solid. got about a good handful of sludgy junk out of it. I used heavy duty cleaner (Mean Green) , then Clorox, ammonia, and what ever else I had to clean the motor I put back in. You can't buy strong enough chemicals to do the job right. I would say remove t-stat and keep flushing it out.
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Old 05-15-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by HappyPappy
Had the same problem with mine, found out the block was clogged at the rear of the motor, (only after replacing the motor). Had the old one setting on thr floor and noticed a wet spot at the back of the block. pocked out the rear water jacket plug, and sure as s--t it was plugged solid. got about a good handful of sludgy junk out of it. I used heavy duty cleaner (Mean Green) , then Clorox, ammonia, and what ever else I had to clean the motor I put back in. You can't buy strong enough chemicals to do the job right. I would say remove t-stat and keep flushing it out.
THAT may be the difference.
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:47 AM
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Just to add to the debate.

I had to do a water pump on my 99. It was leaking. So I get the new pump in there all together. Fill it up. Start it and let it run. After a while the efan kicked on. I checked the gauge and its running hot. Shut it off.

Started feeling hoses and what not. Nothing is warm except thermostat and water pump. The rad cap was cool to the touch so I took out off. After about 10 seconds it gurgles and erupts with boiling coolant. I threw the cap back on as much as I could to prevent a huge mess.

I let it cool and filled it back up. Let it run. No problems. Been fine for the last two months. I don't know if it "burped" or what (seems like it threw up). I don't have sludge problems though my coolant stays clean.
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:13 AM
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When I'm driving and turn to quick I hear a squeak in the rear driver side. Is that the sway bar being ****ty or my leafs?
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I have my new to me 1991 Cherokee 4.0. It has about 120k miles on it now, I got it with 118k. It looked like the waterpump and thermostat had been replaced. I flushed the coolant out about a week after buying it with 50/50. I took it on a few trips and it overheated, the idiot light didn't come on of course. I swapped gauge clusters with a new sending unit for the temperature. Now I can see it slowly overheat over time, as you can see in my avatar. I pulled the thermostat out today, it was a 160* failsafe in good condition, it was locked into the open position from all of the overheating. I removed the thermostat and refilled the system, its still appearing to overheat, 30 minutes of driving and already at 210*, I put some CLR to try and flush out the original metal radiator, I'll flush it out tomorrow and hopefully its just a clogged radiator.

Anybody have any advice what cured their over heating?
I noticed a change in temp. (and other improvements) when I changed the valve cover gasket. apparently, vacuum has a more important role than I imagined. it starts quickly, the brakes are better, and it doesn't overheat.FYI: the heater hoses did break off in the course of the repair. I guess you gotta expect some loss... ALSO: I used the rubber/steel gasket from Fel Pro.. it's a ten year gasket easily... Good Luck Dood
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:31 AM
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Default Engine lope

I posted this a few days ago. I have a 2001 XJ, approx 216K, and when I have the heat or AC on, the engine lopes a bit. It will jump maybe 200RPM every 10 seconds or so. It does not do this when the heat or AC is off. It runs really well otherwise.
I have tried two things: 1) Replaced the TPS, and 2) Cleaned the TB and IAC. Though both of these things made it run and idle better, neither fixed the loping issue.
Last week I was told to bring it to Autozone to have them run a diagnostic, but when I brought it in today, they told me they only run diagnostic if the engine light is on.
This thing is driving me nuts. Does anyone have any ideas what it might be?
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:35 AM
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BTW: I use a 195 failsafe stat.. if the temp isn't right, the computer will keep the fuel rich. AND I recently changed the radiator, it's now brass/copper. got it from Summit.. Ready Rad brand.... I guess that helps by ten percent of extra cooling...
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:08 AM
  #42718  
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The fan clutch appears to be in good condition, it doesn't free spin after turning the engine off, it also pushes a lot of air and screams when revving (NOT a belt squeal).

I also had these overheating problems occur at 60 mph where the fan isn't doing much.


I removed the thermostat yesterday and it still seemed to get hot, I flushed it out this morning, about 12 gallons of water have been flushed threw it and its starting to look clean. I let it idle with the radiator cap off and the gauge slowly worked its way to 210, without a thermostat. It also has random bubbles that keep coming from the radiator (I'll make a video if you guys need to see) which I am worried might be head gasket issues or possible clogged radiator/block. If I do the headgasket will I be able to see those coolant passages which were clogged for you happypappy?
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by loganzillmer
I posted this a few days ago. I have a 2001 XJ, approx 216K, and when I have the heat or AC on, the engine lopes a bit. It will jump maybe 200RPM every 10 seconds or so. It does not do this when the heat or AC is off. It runs really well otherwise.
I have tried two things: 1) Replaced the TPS, and 2) Cleaned the TB and IAC. Though both of these things made it run and idle better, neither fixed the loping issue.
Last week I was told to bring it to Autozone to have them run a diagnostic, but when I brought it in today, they told me they only run diagnostic if the engine light is on.
This thing is driving me nuts. Does anyone have any ideas what it might be?

No reason at all they wouldn't do a scan for you. Some problems won't cause a CEL. I'd go to another store.

Did you see the reply about your surge maybe being the a/c compressor kicking on and off?
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Old 05-15-2014, 02:39 PM
  #42720  
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So just verifying a fan clutch replacement. If after I get to operating temperature I can shut the engine off and spin my fan like top by hand the fan clutch needs replacing?
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