09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
05-24-2014, 06:59 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
96 xj aw4. I'm wanting to do the basic fluid change without dropping the pan but I've read if you mix the dex/merc and atf+4 it could be bad and I don't know what the PO used. I believe he used wally world (tires are from there) for service and from searching seems a lot of places will tell you to use the atf+4 (thanks CF for the right info 
). I don't seem to have any slipping issues, although I did experience the slips in drive but not if I start in 1/2 (which from searching seems to be a tps issue that makes it go into limp mode). Any way to tell which atf is in there or do I just hope he used the dex/merc and proceed with the basic fluid change? Thx in advance.
). I don't seem to have any slipping issues, although I did experience the slips in drive but not if I start in 1/2 (which from searching seems to be a tps issue that makes it go into limp mode). Any way to tell which atf is in there or do I just hope he used the dex/merc and proceed with the basic fluid change? Thx in advance.As for your issue, do the fluid, test the TPS, and give this a boo https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
LOL. Maybe cork?
05-24-2014, 07:10 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Spring Branch, Tx.
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
ATF+4 in an AW4 isn't guaranteed to cause problems in every unit. In most high mileage units it causes slipping... but not all. Mixing them won't cause any issues - they're not corrosive or chemically reactive or anything. Buy the right juice and do your thing!
As for your issue, do the fluid, test the TPS, and give this a boo https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
As for your issue, do the fluid, test the TPS, and give this a boo https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/
Cool. Someone in one of the threads I searched mentioned that they could jell up or something but I don't know his credentials so I'll take your advice as I've seen you all over this forum
. And I just read a similar thread yesterday on the linkage adjustment but I like the diagram on that one better. Thanks again.
05-24-2014, 08:23 PM
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,971
Received 1,559 Likes
on
1,263 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
96 xj aw4. I'm wanting to do the basic fluid change without dropping the pan but I've read if you mix the dex/merc and atf+4 it could be bad and I don't know what the PO used. I believe he used wally world (tires are from there) for service and from searching seems a lot of places will tell you to use the atf+4 (thanks CF for the right info ). I don't seem to have any slipping issues, although I did experience the slips in drive but not if I start in 1/2 (which from searching seems to be a tps issue that makes it go into limp mode). Any way to tell which atf is in there or do I just hope he used the dex/merc and proceed with the basic fluid change? Thx in advance.
). I don't seem to have any slipping issues, although I did experience the slips in drive but not if I start in 1/2 (which from searching seems to be a tps issue that makes it go into limp mode). Any way to tell which atf is in there or do I just hope he used the dex/merc and proceed with the basic fluid change? Thx in advance.
05-24-2014, 09:51 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Calling any and all a/c techs
I have a question, maybe two. I just got done installing ALL new a/c components. It is a completely bone dry system. The old compressor called for 8oz. of oil so that is what I put in the new compressor. While adding it, I rotated the clutch to circulate the oil. I put the oil in on the low side of the compressor and when I got close to having the 8oz. bottle of oil completely emptied, it started coming out the other port of the compressor. I was like, well it is full.
I was told that the oil will circulate through the system after it is re-charged and up and running so there was no need to put oil in the evaporator, condenser, and accumulator.
Before I pull a vacuum on the system and re-charge it, my questions are 1) Is it bad that oil started coming out the other port on the compressor when rotating the clutch? and 2) Should I have split the oil up through the entire system ie. 3oz. in accululator, 1oz. in the evpaporator, .75oz in the accumulator and the rest 3.25oz. in the compressor?
I would like to make sure I am good to go on the vacuum and re-charge or if I need to pull the compressor back off and drain some of the oil out of it and redistribute it in the other parts.
I was told that the oil will circulate through the system after it is re-charged and up and running so there was no need to put oil in the evaporator, condenser, and accumulator.
Before I pull a vacuum on the system and re-charge it, my questions are 1) Is it bad that oil started coming out the other port on the compressor when rotating the clutch? and 2) Should I have split the oil up through the entire system ie. 3oz. in accululator, 1oz. in the evpaporator, .75oz in the accumulator and the rest 3.25oz. in the compressor?
I would like to make sure I am good to go on the vacuum and re-charge or if I need to pull the compressor back off and drain some of the oil out of it and redistribute it in the other parts.
05-24-2014, 09:55 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Glendale,Az
Posts: 1,458
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
I have a question, maybe two. I just got done installing ALL new a/c components. It is a completely bone dry system. The old compressor called for 8oz. of oil so that is what I put in the new compressor. While adding it, I rotated the clutch to circulate the oil. I put the oil in on the low side of the compressor and when I got close to having the 8oz. bottle of oil completely emptied, it started coming out the other port of the compressor. I was like, well it is full.
I was told that the oil will circulate through the system after it is re-charged and up and running so there was no need to put oil in the evaporator, condenser, and accumulator.
Before I pull a vacuum on the system and re-charge it, my questions are 1) Is it bad that oil started coming out the other port on the compressor when rotating the clutch? and 2) Should I have split the oil up through the entire system ie. 3oz. in accululator, 1oz. in the evpaporator, .75oz in the accumulator and the rest 3.25oz. in the compressor?
I would like to make sure I am good to go on the vacuum and re-charge or if I need to pull the compressor back off and drain some of the oil out of it and redistribute it in the other parts.
I was told that the oil will circulate through the system after it is re-charged and up and running so there was no need to put oil in the evaporator, condenser, and accumulator.
Before I pull a vacuum on the system and re-charge it, my questions are 1) Is it bad that oil started coming out the other port on the compressor when rotating the clutch? and 2) Should I have split the oil up through the entire system ie. 3oz. in accululator, 1oz. in the evpaporator, .75oz in the accumulator and the rest 3.25oz. in the compressor?
I would like to make sure I am good to go on the vacuum and re-charge or if I need to pull the compressor back off and drain some of the oil out of it and redistribute it in the other parts.
This may be different depending on the years, mine was a replacment for a 88'. But I believe the concept is the same.
Maybe I did it wrong. Dunno. But my a/c blows ice cold with no issues.
05-24-2014, 10:01 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,048
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
When I replaced my compressor I added oil in the bottom bolt of the compressor. I had to drain out all of the mineral oil by rotating the clutch, once empty I added it in the same hole on the bottom of the compressor.
This may be different depending on the years, mine was a replacment for a 88'. But I believe the concept is the same.
Maybe I did it wrong. Dunno. But my a/c blows ice cold with no issues.
This may be different depending on the years, mine was a replacment for a 88'. But I believe the concept is the same.
Maybe I did it wrong. Dunno. But my a/c blows ice cold with no issues.
I saw that bolt you are talking about and it did not even dawn on me to take that off and drain it that way. I think there was still just a tad of the shipping oil left in it. Not sure if that will hurt anything mixing with the PAG oil. I got as much of it out as you can.
05-25-2014, 10:28 AM
I'm trying to remove and replace the oil pan on my 2000. The oil pan support bracket or rear main seal bracket or girdle or whatever it's called is getting in my way. I've tried hammering a socket onto the bolts there, but it's like the bolts are jammed against the bracket itself. I can't even get a flat screwdriver between the bolt and the part it sits against. I'm determined to get this thing off, but I'm at a loss right now.
It seems like this bracket is metal. Has anyone else had issues with this thing? I don't mind breaking it if I have to, but I don't want to break anything that's going to be difficult or expensive to replace.
Any suggestions?
It seems like this bracket is metal. Has anyone else had issues with this thing? I don't mind breaking it if I have to, but I don't want to break anything that's going to be difficult or expensive to replace.
Any suggestions?
05-25-2014, 01:51 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
05-25-2014, 02:39 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Carrollton, GA
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
You need to know the BL. You don't want to damage the gears by shock loading them. Also important for carrier preload.
05-25-2014, 02:50 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
05-25-2014, 03:19 PM
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I set my backlash to .011.
Now this is what my pattern looks like...
From what iv read, these patterns with my backlash set correctly shows the pinion shims need to be reduced.
Only problem is there's only one stock pinion shim in there....
Now this is what my pattern looks like...
From what iv read, these patterns with my backlash set correctly shows the pinion shims need to be reduced.
Only problem is there's only one stock pinion shim in there....
Last edited by 884x4; 05-25-2014 at 04:34 PM.
