NewKindOfClown

Yep, remove everything but the driver side, seat belt, and steering column.

drhoward1988

It should be. Dont see it surviving any substantial accident without it being attached to somthing more than an interior trim piece. Most seats bolt.in through the floor.

VTJeep

haha, work? haven't done that since thursday.. wet weather and painting don't mix! but yeah, no prob with the pics man. happy to help

VTJeep

they look badass like this. gutted and ready for action

ITTs_Cole

Thanks guys. This will be a "very soon" project. Alls ill need to do is line up a welder to put new metal in my floor holes

VTJeep

bah! just use some POR or some chassis saver and thrown some sheet metal over the holes! haha, seriously whatever works for ya, but this is cheap and will prob last the life of the jeep!

ITTs_Cole

The hole is pretty sizeable. i feel like ill just make it bigger to prevent spread. Can you also use this on the underside to prevent salt and such from rusting the underside?

Eagle564

Alright so I've got a Ford 8.8 sitting beside my house. Still needs everything done to it. I'm looking to regear to 4.88, and regear the D30, spartans in both. 8.8 will get a complete rebuild and the IRO swap kit but will keep c-clips and stock shafts for now. Then 35" MTRs. Roughly $900 in parts(not including tires), plus labor($1000?) to do most all of it since I don't have a welder and I don't have much time to do this myself. Good plan? One of my main questions is that I'm on the 4.5" RE superflex kit and I already need the axle forward a bit, will 35s make it to where I have to have long arms at this height? Also stock steering for now as well.

I've been debating this for a very long time now, the 8.8 has been sitting beside my house for 4 months lol. I've been struggling with the idea of building the cherokee further or buyin somethin else to build mainly :/

NewKindOfClown

You don't need long arms to center your axle. You need longer control arms. It doesn't matter if they're SA or LA style, as long as they're the correct length.
Also make sure you weld the tubes on that 8.8 before you install it. They like to spin.

Eagle564

Theyre RE's superflex arms, I'd think they wouldve been the correct length then since they were in the kit. My bumpstops barely hit eachother because they so far off, unless it's because the axle is angled too much. in which case I don't know how to fix that either

Ya I've done a ton of research on everything that needs to be done to it. Only thing I don't know is the brake lines. Only bits and pieces were with the axle when I got it at the JY. Not sure if my current extended lines will work or if I need Exploder Lines. And I don't care about the E-brake, mine doesnt work now lol.

straightsixjeep

My friends 99' has the exact same leak. Have you checked the oil and coolant to determine if there's any mixing? If not, either pop a new headgasket in or just keep a good eye on it. I copied this from a thread on jeepsunlimited -

"Many 4.0s do this. There is a design problem with the headgasket that allows a leak from the pushrod lifter oil galley on the passengers side of engine. This is a nonstressed area of the head and this leak is almost always a weep that leads to no significant problems. It has been previously reported on some of the forums that there is a redesigned factory head gasket to address this prob. Mine has had a weep there almost since new. Hardly any oil is actually lost. I still use no signif oil between oil changes. 142k on my car todate. I would not get it fixed even if under warranty if just a weep since I would not want them screwing up something else."

DESERTXJ206

Thays what I figured, I know its not a pressured area and that its away from the pistons so I alwaysed assumed it wasnt an issue. Iv had 2 xjs and my buddies zj has the same problem too.

I just want a squeaky clean engine bay and this is an eye soar.

I wonder if I car run a bead of rtv down the side of the head to "seal" this minor leak? Does anybody object or have a reason why it wouldnt work?

loganzillmer

Well I was able to finish the cooling system overhaul and flush tonight, but I ran into a problem. I replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, upper and lower radiator hoses and installed the tap for the flush kit. Everything went really well for my first time, except putting the fan shroud back in. I can't figure out a way to get it back in without removing the entire front end, haha. Aaaand I broke it in half trying. So if anyone knows how to get that in without removing a bunch of stuff or completely destroying your radiator, please let me know. I am going to go get one from the pull-and-pay tomorrow and try again.

Also, I did a flush before I put any of the new parts on. I just lightly ran water into the radiator with the drain cap off. I didn't have the batt connected or the fan on, so I didn't run the engine. It was pretty grimy so I wanted to get as much of it out before I put the new parts on as I could. I planned to do another flush after everything was on, and then run the engine.

The big problem came at the end. I attached the hose to the flush-kit connector and ran it really lightly. Water started leaking out of the thermostat housing first, and then out the radiator. I tightened the bolts on the thermostat housing and turned down the hose a bit. That worked. Then I turned on the engine and water started leaking out of both the thermostat housing, and the water pump. All the bolts were tight. I scraped the old gaskets off really well when I pulled the old parts off, I used new gaskets on both the thermostat housing and water pump, and also used gasket sealer. Do I have a blockage somewhere creating a lot of pressure? Do I need to let the gasket sealer dry more?

I am going to run it again tomorrow morning to see if it happens again. If so. I have no idea what the problem would be. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

HappyPappy

You can take them apart and clean them, watch out for those little contacts inside. After almost three years of no back up lights, I finally got mine fixed. I cleaned my switch, found two wire broke off at the plug, made jumper wires, back fed from the tail lights, traced the whole wire system, back to a little fuse in the fuse block labeled "TRANS". lower right side of thr block, changed that and da, I've got back up lights. Find that fuse and go from there. You do have an AW4 trans

HappyPappy

Should be four clips that hold it up, two just inside the front doors, and two all the way in the back, CAREFUL, don't rip the base board. Just push up and bend the board to get it past the clip, HINT, TWO MAN JOB. Also two man job putting it back in, less chance of it breaking