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05-30-2014, 02:50 PM
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Location: Minneapolis
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6
Afternoon everyone.
I have had my first XJ for almost a year and a half and I noticed a small difference between the 2-door and 4-door XJs the other day. There seems to be a different rear side window panel that the 2-doors have a special embellishment that the 4-doors don't have. Two diagonal recesses down the full height of the panel behind the window. I have attached a small picture for reference.
My question is: is this part of the rear side panel of the body of the 2-door or is this a removable part I could add to my 4-door? I understand it will reduce the size of my rear-side windows, but I find this embellishment very attractive.
I have had my first XJ for almost a year and a half and I noticed a small difference between the 2-door and 4-door XJs the other day. There seems to be a different rear side window panel that the 2-doors have a special embellishment that the 4-doors don't have. Two diagonal recesses down the full height of the panel behind the window. I have attached a small picture for reference.
My question is: is this part of the rear side panel of the body of the 2-door or is this a removable part I could add to my 4-door? I understand it will reduce the size of my rear-side windows, but I find this embellishment very attractive.
05-30-2014, 03:36 PM
CF Veteran
Not a definite. Only reference I've seen to them was on another forum. Couple guys were asking about replacements for their broken ones. Someone said they had recently taken their wrecked 2WD cherokee to the jy and they could go take them off if they were still there. Other replies said they're not available as an aftermarket item.
05-30-2014, 04:13 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I was able to finish the overhaul. I ended up doing the waterpump, fan clutch, thermostat and thermostat housing, and uper and lower radiator hoses. I think I am also going to do the radiator soon too. Everything went pretty well, though I think I have a small blockage in the system somewhere. But I have some questions because I am still a little concerned.
I drove it for 15mins or so yesterday after the job was done. Everything seemed OK. After warm it didn't go over 210 unless I cam to a stop but as soon as it ticked over 210 the e-fan kicked on. The coolant was no longer boiling in the resevoir etc.
This morning when I opened the hood, it was a little low on coolant (not sure if it used that much, or if it just needed to be topped off after the first drive). Also, I pulled off the oil cap and did see cooland on the underside of it. It was green, not milky, but for some reason I thought if there was coolant on that cap at all it was bad. I pulled the dipstick and it was also not milky. The oil looked to be the normal color.
Last thing, my oil pressure is really erratic. It will go anywhere from 20-60 depending. 50-60 while driving and 20-40 while idling. Once warm, it mostly resides around 40. But this seems like a big jump.
Help!
Please tell me I am being paranoid.
I drove it for 15mins or so yesterday after the job was done. Everything seemed OK. After warm it didn't go over 210 unless I cam to a stop but as soon as it ticked over 210 the e-fan kicked on. The coolant was no longer boiling in the resevoir etc.
This morning when I opened the hood, it was a little low on coolant (not sure if it used that much, or if it just needed to be topped off after the first drive). Also, I pulled off the oil cap and did see cooland on the underside of it. It was green, not milky, but for some reason I thought if there was coolant on that cap at all it was bad. I pulled the dipstick and it was also not milky. The oil looked to be the normal color.
Last thing, my oil pressure is really erratic. It will go anywhere from 20-60 depending. 50-60 while driving and 20-40 while idling. Once warm, it mostly resides around 40. But this seems like a big jump.
Help!
Please tell me I am being paranoid.
As far as stuff on the bottom of the cap goes, it is very unlikely that what you're seeing is coolant. The first sign of coolant contamination is that milky emulsion. Sometimes the underside of my oil cap looks green too... a combination of the oil's sheen and reflection of my green Heep, the leaves, grass, etc. Wipe it with paper towel to be certain. But again, if there was enough coolant to see that your oil would be quite beige.
Oil pressure is totaly normal for a health 4.0L. Your oil becomes less resistant to flow at it heats up lol.
05-30-2014, 04:30 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6
Not a definite. Only reference I've seen to them was on another forum. Couple guys were asking about replacements for their broken ones. Someone said they had recently taken their wrecked 2WD cherokee to the jy and they could go take them off if they were still there. Other replies said they're not available as an aftermarket item.
Last edited by Warglock; 05-30-2014 at 04:31 PM. Reason: spelling
05-30-2014, 05:37 PM
CF Veteran
Is it possible to over seafoam the throttle body? Not adding so much to the point it hydro locks, but doing a little seafoam this week, then a few drops a few days later, and so on. I recently seafoamed it, but im not sure i used enough. i still haven't used the whole bottle.
05-30-2014, 05:40 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
When I realized that they were different between the 2-doors and 4-doors i looked closely on a 2-door i saw at a gas station. I couldn't tell if it was bolt on or was welded to the body/part of the rear side panel. If someone can confirm that it is indeed a removable part, I will be making some calls to local junkyards to see if they have any black 96-01 2-doors. (assuming it's year dependant)
05-30-2014, 06:18 PM
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Year: 2001
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05-30-2014, 06:26 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Is it possible to over seafoam the throttle body? Not adding so much to the point it hydro locks, but doing a little seafoam this week, then a few drops a few days later, and so on. I recently seafoamed it, but im not sure i used enough. i still haven't used the whole bottle.
Your year has a cable-driven speedo. I'd start by inspecting and lubricating it.
05-30-2014, 06:35 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Is it possible to over seafoam the throttle body? Not adding so much to the point it hydro locks, but doing a little seafoam this week, then a few drops a few days later, and so on. I recently seafoamed it, but im not sure i used enough. i still haven't used the whole bottle.
05-30-2014, 06:47 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Probs getting downstream O2 sensor electrical end out
So, this may not rise to the level of a "tech" question, but it's my 1st time under the jeep so I'm feeling like a rocket scientist, albeit pretty cranky b/c of this stupid problem. Yada yada yada..
99 Cherokee - downstream O2 sensor electrical end is fastened into annoying/inconvenient metal shelf/house thing (see pic). I cannot get the plastic screw on the existing sensor pushed through in order to pull the harness down and swap them out. I've tried pushing and even cutting it (as you can prob see). Am I missing something silly? PLUS, wth is the little metal ring on the right hand side of the bracket holding the wires? I understand that cutting the wires on the old sensor after removal will work to free it, but should I just figure out how to use a zip tie somewhere in there to secure new one? (particularly since the new sensor does not have a plastic screw on it).
99 Cherokee - downstream O2 sensor electrical end is fastened into annoying/inconvenient metal shelf/house thing (see pic). I cannot get the plastic screw on the existing sensor pushed through in order to pull the harness down and swap them out. I've tried pushing and even cutting it (as you can prob see). Am I missing something silly? PLUS, wth is the little metal ring on the right hand side of the bracket holding the wires? I understand that cutting the wires on the old sensor after removal will work to free it, but should I just figure out how to use a zip tie somewhere in there to secure new one? (particularly since the new sensor does not have a plastic screw on it).
05-30-2014, 07:14 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Follow-up. Crisis 1 averted. Finally snipped through the plastic screw. Unfortunately, there is very little play in the wire length so crisis 2 is trying to disconnect it (electrical end) sight unseen. LEADING TO NEXT question . . . can I just try to get the sensor part out first so I don't kill the already questionable and ratty harness trying to disconnect it? Will I hurt the Jeep doing that? Or myself? (sorry, I'm a mom - I need to be around until all college is paid for, so I had to ask) . .
05-30-2014, 07:28 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Nice job! I think you mentioned in a previous post that you broke the fan shroud. Once you get that taken care of your electric fan should come on a LOT less. Without the shroud the fan can't pull air through the rad and just pulls it around it.
As far as stuff on the bottom of the cap goes, it is very unlikely that what you're seeing is coolant. The first sign of coolant contamination is that milky emulsion. Sometimes the underside of my oil cap looks green too... a combination of the oil's sheen and reflection of my green Heep, the leaves, grass, etc. Wipe it with paper towel to be certain. But again, if there was enough coolant to see that your oil would be quite beige.
Oil pressure is totaly normal for a health 4.0L. Your oil becomes less resistant to flow at it heats up lol.
As far as stuff on the bottom of the cap goes, it is very unlikely that what you're seeing is coolant. The first sign of coolant contamination is that milky emulsion. Sometimes the underside of my oil cap looks green too... a combination of the oil's sheen and reflection of my green Heep, the leaves, grass, etc. Wipe it with paper towel to be certain. But again, if there was enough coolant to see that your oil would be quite beige.
Oil pressure is totaly normal for a health 4.0L. Your oil becomes less resistant to flow at it heats up lol.
Thanks again for all the help. I am really glad I was able to do this on my own. All in all it wasn't that difficult, I learned a lot about my truck, its tremendously rewarding to have done it myself, and it gave me a lot more confidence for the next job. Hopefully I can start socking some $$ away for the fun stuff.
05-30-2014, 07:53 PM
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Do the older Banks headers have any marking on them to show that it's a banks? I know Hedman and Hooker label theirs, I've never seen a Banks. Also will a header for a 99 TJ fit an XJ?
05-30-2014, 09:51 PM
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Thank you. That makes me feel a lot better. I think you are right about the cap, I pulled it again like 30mins ago and didn't see the green. I actually ended up finding a shroud at the junk yard and getting it on. I was too paranoid to run the jeep without one. What I had to do to get it in was to loosen the nuts where the fan connects to the clutch so it could move freely a bit while I fanagled it down with the shroud at the same time, then I just tightened them down once in. It wasn't easy, but I got it in...not without folding a few tabs in on the radiator though. Probably going to replace that sometime this summer.
Thanks again for all the help. I am really glad I was able to do this on my own. All in all it wasn't that difficult, I learned a lot about my truck, its tremendously rewarding to have done it myself, and it gave me a lot more confidence for the next job. Hopefully I can start socking some $$ away for the fun stuff.
Thanks again for all the help. I am really glad I was able to do this on my own. All in all it wasn't that difficult, I learned a lot about my truck, its tremendously rewarding to have done it myself, and it gave me a lot more confidence for the next job. Hopefully I can start socking some $$ away for the fun stuff.
