sycoglitch

Nah dukie just needs his own app where you directly ask him questions. And in future jeep models instead of onstar it's gonna be calldukie.

Sideways99

i was gettin 310-325 out of a tank
now only about 270-80 not being hard on it
as far as tune up i did everything mid july last year and regular oilchanges
i'm not throwing codes at all matter of fact a buddy works at advance and i have him run codes every other month just so we can go outside an bs when hes at work lol and ain't really justify throwing money at an o2 thats not bad ya know
dc ds yes, t case drop no, shims yes but could def use more after inspecting
i'll pull plugs soon to se how they look
any other ideas let me know

jeepin4jesus

I only get 14mpg average on my 99 stock xj. i have replaced cap rotor plugs and wires. So i just deal with the bad mpgs. unless this is not a normal mpg?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Cherokee Forum

trug

I just bought a 90 xj, it has issues but the price was right.

The short version of my question is I am checking the sensors that feed the RENIX brain and some of the tests require checking terminals identified by letters. My chilton manual (the latest version) is not helpful in ID'ing which is which. Does any one have the appropriate pages from a service manual to help me figure out what I am doing? FYI I am also using the modified jabbathahutt write up on http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm to work through the sensors.

thanks, read on if you want to check my thought process/diagnossis

If it had a carb I would say it has choke issues. The idle is low (if the tach is to be trusted <400) when it is cold as it warms it gets worse at 200-210 F it dies.

It is undriveable as is.

When I first got the jeep friday night the idle was erratic jumping around between 50- 1500 rpm and was marginally drivable. The exhaust smelled like raw gas and it had a knock that occurred at about 2k ~3k rpm with a corresponding loss of power (for the time being I am assuming the knock sensor is ok for that reason.) After 3k the power would jump and by about 4.5K the power felt about 'right'.

A thorough going over of the vacuum system yielded a disconnected EGR solenoid (hose pluged w/ a screw), the CCV fitting on the manifold and the hose connecting it to the the valve cover gasket was a mess, and multiple cracked hoses were 'fixed' with electrical tape.

When I checked the plugs the ceramic insulators were black but not 'sooty' or oily. (it had texture but would not wipe off so it does not fit my definition of soot.) Also the Emiss Maint light is on which makes me think the problem is the motor running rich because a failed sensor is fighting a good one. My money is on a failed CTS fighting a good O2 sensor.

In addition the vacuum fixes, the plugs (champion copper), wires, distributor cap and roter, air filter, and coil were all replaced recently, and the cat is new within the last 1.5 years.

Thanks for all previous posts I never would have gotten this far without them. (i read about 120 pages on this thread alone)

dukie564

plenty good. I have a harbor freight d-ring receiver and it works great. Just make sure you have a class III hitch to put it in.

dukie564

hmmm are you sure? You need to fill it up, drive till empty, then fill it up to see how much gas you used. (divide miles/#gallons used, and adjust for tire size/speedo calibration). Don't trust the gas gauge, it can vary by 2 or more gallons. For reference sakes i get about 17.5mpg with m/t tires and trimmed front fascia/bumper.

and o2 sensors usually will not throw a code when they stop being effective. It's definitely a small cost to replace if it gains back mileage.

But get some real mpg numbers - maybe run through 2 or more tanks to get a more accurate calculation (total cumulative mileage / total number of gallons used).

Different fuels (winter/summer blend), weather conditions, hwy/city all affect mpg so try to keep it as constant as possible.

dukie564

Most sensors are actually labeled on the body of the sensor itself which terminal is which.

My bet is on a faulty throttle position sensor.

You're off to a good start - You have a PM so check your inbox

Taekwondemers

I need to know what year grand cherokee steering gear I can put into my 91 cherokee that has that Inline 6, I have some play in my steering. or how to go about rebuilding mine. Thank you

dukie564

If you're going to replace it, may as well upgrade. The grand cherokee steering box is the same as the cherokee box.

Steering box out of a 98/99 V8 Dodge Durango w/o the plow package bolts right in.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/du...houghts-84046/

XJmotard

So...i see different jeep son here that have different random panels painted black. (I'm guessing some sort of bed liner paint?) But i was wondering what exactly someone has used, or someone they know has used...and if you just taped off the area and painted it over the vehicles paint?

I pretty much just like that look for some reason with like the front panel or rear panel painted black...

thanks

askingxforxit

Solved my alternator noise issue this morning. Installed the Cobra 25 WX NW ST

I wish I would have done this months ago!!

askingxforxit

Best decision I've made so far with my cb install next to the wilson antenna

jeepcherokee99

My gf drives a 99 vw golf. Her car is always having battery problems n we thought we finally got it fixed. Now none of her gauges r working they r all off even while she is driving no heat reading no speed or rpm but it is driving normal. We have been told different things like the alternator is at high voltage not working properly and another place said it was wiring. Could this really b related the alternator? Does anyone kno wat could cause this?

Taekwondemers

Thank you very much Dukie564!

Japple650

So your problem was the radio the whole time?