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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Indianapolis
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Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
Last time ive dealt with something as you described it, it was the joints in the steering shaft itself. A guy had hit a pothole so bad it screwed them bad. Same symptoms, turn wheel it be easy the hard the easy again. It wouldn't happen with just the pitman connected because the tires it what makes it work harder.
You're saying it happens only when the pitman arm is connected to the drag link right?
I think you're right it has to be the joints in the shaft or something involving the shaft.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think the steering box stops the steering wheel if the steering stops on the axle don't...
If you pull your drag link off you can turn your pitman arm by hand then something abruptly stops the pitman arm.
I assume the steering box stops it and not something in the column or shaft
If you pull your drag link off you can turn your pitman arm by hand then something abruptly stops the pitman arm.
I assume the steering box stops it and not something in the column or shaft
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Check to see if nothing get in the way of the steering shaft joints when u turn it.
When I bought my jeep from a junkyard, it was in a collision and the front end was smashed in. The power steering hoses (metal parts) was bent far enough that it interfered with the rotational movement of the steering shaft.
When I bought my jeep from a junkyard, it was in a collision and the front end was smashed in. The power steering hoses (metal parts) was bent far enough that it interfered with the rotational movement of the steering shaft.
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Tn
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
my cherokee will start and run fine till it gets up to operating temperature then it doesn't want to idle if will putter below 500 then die out, there is also a little surging in the low rpm range up till about 1200. i have replaced the iac, tps, fuel injectors, battery, plug wires and distributor cap and button, fuel filter, any ideas what could be causing my problem?
ive also tried cleaning out the throttle body
ive also tried cleaning out the throttle body
Last edited by joeogio; 06-16-2014 at 05:57 PM. Reason: more information
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
my cherokee will start and run fine till it gets up to operating temperature then it doesn't want to idle if will putter below 500 then die out, there is also a little surging in the low rpm range up till about 1200. i have replaced the iac, tps, fuel injectors, battery, plug wires and distributor cap and button, fuel filter, any ideas what could be causing my problem?
ive also tried cleaning out the throttle body
ive also tried cleaning out the throttle body
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Huntsville, Tn
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Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Anyone know of a good gutter mount system to mount this Yakima roof rack using gutter mounts instead of the flimsy oem crossbars?
Attachment 246005
Attachment 246005
http://www.yakima.com/fit/Information
Moderator of Jeeps
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
I saw an early 90s XJ today with a 2.5L and OEM tow hitch. Was that even an option from the factory?
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
They had factory hitches back then.
With a 4 cylinder? Maybe not.
With a 4 cylinder? Maybe not.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Denver
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looking at replacing all my cooling system before it fails on me in the mountains randomly.
Gates is pretty solid for waterpumps? I know they make good belts, typically. Also just looking for an OEM 2 row rad, I see them for ~$80 on rockauto. What else should I replace, the upper & lower hose, new coolant, new t-stat (motorad, correct?) Anything else? Then just fill er up with distilled water and the green goodness?
I am going to probably drain it and try to spray out the heater core. When I first got it, a garage told me my rad was starting to seep so I figure its not worth doing a drain on the coolant without replacing it.
Gates is pretty solid for waterpumps? I know they make good belts, typically. Also just looking for an OEM 2 row rad, I see them for ~$80 on rockauto. What else should I replace, the upper & lower hose, new coolant, new t-stat (motorad, correct?) Anything else? Then just fill er up with distilled water and the green goodness?
I am going to probably drain it and try to spray out the heater core. When I first got it, a garage told me my rad was starting to seep so I figure its not worth doing a drain on the coolant without replacing it.
Beach Bum
Looking at replacing all my cooling system before it fails on me in the mountains randomly.
Gates is pretty solid for waterpumps? I know they make good belts, typically. Also just looking for an OEM 2 row rad, I see them for ~$80 on rockauto. What else should I replace, the upper & lower hose, new coolant, new t-stat (motorad, correct?) Anything else?
Gates is pretty solid for waterpumps? I know they make good belts, typically. Also just looking for an OEM 2 row rad, I see them for ~$80 on rockauto. What else should I replace, the upper & lower hose, new coolant, new t-stat (motorad, correct?) Anything else?
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: grove city OHIO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
anyone know the measurements for the stock bump stops? i need how far the end of the bumpstop, is from the bottom part of the mount(for said bumpstop) for the front.
and the distance from the bottom of the "Frame" to the bottom of the bump stop in the rear...
measuring for bump stops without any bump stops...
and the distance from the bottom of the "Frame" to the bottom of the bump stop in the rear...
measuring for bump stops without any bump stops...